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My turbocharged 2000 5.0 AWD....

I just wanted to show off my DIY remote build. The truck is an AWD 2000 5.0 Explorer. - I like to think of it as an AWD SUV Mustang:) This truck actually was lifted with tube bumpers, safari rack, and 32" ATs on 20" wheels just a few months ago- it has undergone a big transformation here lately. It is now lowered slightly in the front with the rear at stock height(with sagging springs). I kept the same wheels but put smaller tires on them and added 2" spacers. Now onto the turbo...

The Turbo is a T04E 57trim which turned out to be perfect for remote mounting. It is a little small if one wanted 10psi+, but I planned on 6psi max and fast spool. I am using the stock exhaust with muffler delete to the turbo, then a 3" mandrel bent tailpipe. In the tailpipe is my AEM wideband o2 sensor. For charge pipe, I bought a 2" mandrel bent intercooler kit along with some 2" pipe from my local muffler shop. For couplers, I am using cut pieces of 2" ID radiator hose. It can be bought from Advance Auto pretty cheaply- I got one piece that was a large 90 for $13 and had some left over. I just cut it into the desired length with a bandsaw. The charge pipe goes to a 2" to 2.5" steel adapter, then into a 2.5" to 3" silicone coupler from AutoZone. This coupler feeds into my 3" BOV adapter then into the 3" mandrel bend aluminum pipe leading into the engine bay. I brought the 3" down pretty far to try and eliminate turbulence in the MAF.

I am using an STS oil pump to return the oil back to the oil filler neck. I got the pump from an STS dealer who upgraded a customers car to their high volume pump. I am using the nipple that originally had the vent hose to the intake for the oil return fitting- I am using a vented push in oil cap to make up for it. It was alot easier this way than tapping the oil cap like STS does.

I haven't had it tuned yet but it will break the tires loose from a rolling start in 1st gear(remember, I am AWD), and I have full boost almost immediately. I already have a 6psi spring for the wastegate that will go in when I put on the 30lb injectors and Cobra fuel pump.


Here are the pictures and it you have any questions just ask.
 

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CDW6212R

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I'd run a good large 3" muffler after the turbo for sure, no smaller. It shouldn't need much given the turbo, but anything that flows well should quiet it enough. I have a pair of Cherry Bomb Vortex mufflers I think are among the highest flowing. Most of what you read and hear will be advertisement, you will need to go by recommendations or flow tests.

Any antifreeze is compatible, Fords do not have mystery requirements(orange stuff, Dexcool etc). I suggest using as little antifreeze as you need for your coldest days. Use distilled water(gallons or water from grocery), and a bottle of Water Weter. That will keep it clean and lubricated great, and run cooler. Run a 180 T-stat, or if you tune for it a 160, cooler is best.
 
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willzilla

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Thank you... Though, as for the muffler... Don't think there is room for one now that I think about it post turbo... It's pretty much turbo followed by a foot of pipe and that's it, lol.

Thanks for the coolant info.. I will pick some up this weekend... It does not get too cold down here in TN and I will have to ask Justin if he's swapped the tstat out yet or not... he gave me his SCT3 (i have a predator for my SVTf) but haven't looked at it yet... Can I just easily switch to 160 tstat by adjusting the tune on my laptop with downloadable software or do I need to buy something for that?
 
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CDW6212R

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TN, here I run about 1/4 to 1/3 antifreeze, which amounts to no more than a gallon.

The thing to check for the T-stat(rating) is the PCM tune point where it goes into closed loop. As long as the PCM goes to closed loop before the T-stat opens, it's good. I don;t know where that stock point is, but others have pointed that out. I have a 160* piece to go in my 347 when I get it in, anything higher is not an option IMO for max HP.

You do need special software to tune the Excal's, look for Pro Racer package. I too need to ask James about that for the flashers I have from him.

Where is Munford, I hadn't heard of that?
 
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willzilla

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It's about an hour from Memphis and 10-15 minutes from Memphis.

And I will go with 1/3 sounds good and safe, thanks. What's in her now is NASTY haha.

I also want to put in the Mark VIII electric fan eventually if it will fit, I have the thicker looking OEM radiator and not the updated thinner version so it might be more painful of a fit.

Do you have a suggestion and/or part number for some good copper plugs to run (1 step colder)?
 
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CDW6212R

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Autolite or Motorcraft will make those, try Ford first and check the part number against an online parts site like TascaFord/com.

The common big fans you hear about may fit with the thinner replacement radiator, but never the full size piece. I bought the Mark VIII, Taurus, and both have motors which are too thick. I now have a new Flexlite 288 to install on a new Visteon radiator. There's a write-up here showing how it's done, thanks Cobraguy. Night,
 
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willzilla

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Nice, thank you for the info..

X update... I bolted the pipe going into the IC back into place which blew out a minute from work earlier today... Started it up after work to get ready to head home and looked around, didn't see any other lose couplers or anything, didn't hear any leaks... Got in the car to drive home... Noticed the AF jumping all over the place.. idles at like... 15 (boost gauge is like 20 vac)... and when i step on it a little more than barely accelerating and get boost up to just about 0 is won't go over 0 and AF plunges down to 10 and the gauge flashed -- for a second and I quickly let off and it slowly moved back up to 14s or so... Pulled over, checked couplers and such (was dark out so hard to see a lot)... All looked well... Limped home fine but issue remained... Any suggestions?

Thanks! :D
 
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willzilla

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I got it... I had blown off 2 couplers lol... One hidden behind the wheel well, the light made it much easier to diagnose!
 
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justin146

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I got it... I had blown off 2 couplers lol... One hidden behind the wheel well, the light made it much easier to diagnose!

You should check the vacuum line going to the BOV. If it isnt venting, you could blow them by suddenly letting off of the throttle. It is the line that is T'd into the brake booster line and runs across the firewall.


And if you want to run a muffler, install it before the turbo. If it is after the turbo, it will kill some of the whistle :)

And I am not sure about the plugs; for some reason Autolite 103 is in my head. When I got the plugs, I found a chart somewhere that listed colder range plugs.
 
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willzilla

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Thanks, I will look into it tomorrow when I am flushing everything out :D

I had a buddy tell me to use a PCV vslve from an 84-86 SVO turbo mustang, so i will see how that works.

I may just run straight pipe as long as it won't be crazy loud sounding when I go with no cats... lol.

I am looking into plugs right now and checking for a good part number to order with.

I took the makeshift muffler off :D Had some crud and stuff caked up in there with it as well.
 
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willzilla

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And I am not sure about the plugs; for some reason Autolite 103 is in my head. When I got the plugs, I found a chart somewhere that listed colder range plugs.

Damn, you're good... Looks like Autolite 764 is OEM stock equiv and 103's is 1 step colder... nice.

Thanks! :D
 
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willzilla

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Ordered an '86 Mustang SVO PVC valve to hopefully help remedy the puking oil from valve cover issue... Lol.. Flushed out the old oil as well and put in some Mobile 1 pure synthetic and a Mobile 1 filter... Going to flush the old rusty coolant out today... Stuff is FUNKY!

Going to hit up the transmission and diff fluids next weekend as well as plugs and wires and place my order for new couplers and cold side pipes to replace the ones that rusted.

I believe the couplers have been blowing out was because of some, what appeared to be, wasp nest material in the bov, took the make shift muffler off and some nest and bug material came out with it... Cleaned it up, seems better now.
 
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CDW6212R

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Good call Justin. Install another trans cooler if you can, and even bypass the radiator if you do that and go easy in cold weather at start up.
 
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willzilla

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Car is not boosting today at all the couple quick taps that i tried... gets to about 1-2psi and stays at that... AF looks good, boost acts normal up to that point, idles good... Stuck WG?
 
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willzilla

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Ok... Swapped the old PCV valve setup out and put in a fresh grommet and an 86 SVO mustang PCV valve... Also pulled off the WG, cleaned it up.. and... the issue remains, BLAH!

It drives fine but when I go WOT it gets up to MAYBE 1psi and then no boost :-/

Hmm.
 
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Jakee

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You're testing with the truck on the road correct? (Under load)
 
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willzilla

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yes, on the road... i stomp on it and boost gauge reads perfect up to like 1psi and wont budge over that.... i let go and i hear the bov... gauge drops back into vac fine, down to around 20vac... i see no leaks anywhere... all couplers are tight... wg is good, looked almost new inside... i can hear turbo spoolin fine... maybe bov?
Posted via Mobile Device
 
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Jakee

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if it was boosting before then I'm guessing it could be the BOV....or a leak...on the charge side. Listen for a hissing sound. If it's leaking you should be able to hear it. I would be looking at the charge side first before looking at the wastegate.
 
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willzilla

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Yeah, I heard a hissing sound when I knocked off the couplers... This time no hissing sound... think I may hear a hissing sound from the BOV location when I'm driving and getting on it... So I will take a look at that tomorrow... I guess it's goo learning experience to disassemble everything, lol.
 
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willzilla

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Pulled the BOV... took it apart... all looks well... put it back on with various spring tightness settings dialed in... Same result... I guess it's a micro leak somewhere in one of the hoses.... arg.
 
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Jakee

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It's gonna have to be a HUGE micro leak to prevent it from boosting, if you have the right sized turbo. Start you a thread and post up some pics of your set-up.
 
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