MyNameIsAric's 98 FULL width SAS

I will keep this first post updated with my progress so people don't have to weed through all the boring crap associated with these buildup threads.
So far I have:

Front axle:
Dana 60 35 spline kingpin high pinion from a 79 f-250/350
detroit locker
dedenbear knuckles
5.38 gears
alloy usa shafts
longfield u-joints
warn hubs (should have went with drive flanges)
high steer arms with full hydraulic steering

Steering:
2x8 double ended cylinder from surpluscenter.com
steering valve out of an old forklift
misc. hoses and fittings from surpluscenter.com

Rear axle:
Dana 60 30 spline low pinion from a 79 f-250/350 (should have went with a 14 bolt)
full spool
5.38 gears
Disk brake conversion

Tires/wheels:
16.5" hummer h1 8 bolt double beadlocks recentered with custom stazworks centers.
36x12.50 wrangler rt II 6 ply military bias tires(sucky but cheap)

Things I need still:
new rims and tires and hopefully she wont shake so bad at 60mph.


Got axles

Got a new truck so i can dismantle the explorer and tow it around when i'm done.
Welded Diff covers

Rear axle almost done

Front axle almost done

Rear axle under truck

Welding up rear driveshaft (yes, it is square)

Machined parts for the upper control arms

Made coil buckets

Made lower control links

Mocking up Front axle and welded up hydraulic ram mount.

Got myself a forklift orbital for my hydraulic steering

welded on lower control arm mounts

Dropped the front IFS

Sent it to the scrap yard

IFS gone

Front axle starting to go in.

off jackstands

Took out the A/C system and cruise control. Also removed ABS brake controller, but I ended up having to put it back in later for the speedo to work.

Mounted new/slightly larger fluid reservoir for the hydro system.

Mounted the stock power steering cooler for the hydro system

Got this mounted in the engine bay where the A/C junk used to be

Had to chop down this thing first though.

Made some tie rods out of 100% grade A beef.

Installed hydraulic ram and tie rods.

View of the filter, and you can see the high pressure hose running from the pump down to the steering valve.

This is how i connected the stock steering wheel to the steering valve. 3/8" swivel

Better view of the steering valve.

Poor planning caused track bar issues

Made a new track bar bracket

Cut off first track bar bracket

Plated for good measure

Welded on new track bar bracket. Still had minor interference so i move the axle forward another 1/2"
Also started putting on shocks.

Tacked a tone ring to the rear d60 carrier

Reinstalled tone ring sensor so i can get speedometer back

blah blah blah tidied things up and poof.... an explorer that can only go 55mph now. If you have questions, just ask or PM me.

 

['97 V8]

People complain about them becuase its hard to turn, and they say they will explode on the street. But the question will be, who would be driving around on the road in 4hi with their hubs locked?

I don't see a problem as your hubs will be unlocked, essential making you freewheel the front. Off-road won't matter much either as you will need to be locked. If you have trouble turning, its simple as just getting out and unlocking one hub. Furthermore, i don't think a mini-spool or lunchbox type locker will be very happy with 37-39" tires.

 

[IZwack]

The 8-bolt H1 rimms I heard are also inferior compared to the 12-bolt. I heard the 8-bolt ones warp the rings too easily and are not as strong.

 

['97 V8]

The 8-bolt H1 rimms I heard are also inferior compared to the 12-bolt. I heard the 8-bolt ones warp the rings too easily and are not as strong.

That is true, thats why they sell rims stiffeners for the wheels. $115TYD with purdy little designs. Hey, IZ, you may be able to get Obama '08 cut into the rings

 

[IZwack]

LOL thats a great idea.. would be sweet !!

 

[redranger4.0]

The 8-bolt H1 rimms I heard are also inferior compared to the 12-bolt. I heard the 8-bolt ones warp the rings too easily and are not as strong.

The 12 bolt rims come with the better bead lock insert, the 8 bolts have the magnesium one with the giant run flat on top, which most people cut off when they run them as it doenst allow the tire to flex when aired down.

 

['97 V8]

Also the pressure, Max in an 8 bolt rim is 30psi, for a 12 bolt its 45psi i believe.

 

[mynameisaric]

I still need to get inserts from somewhere.... pretty sure i can get my boss to let me cut rim stiffeners on the laser here at work, and the centers i will most likely be getting from copperhead. i need to fab up a jig with a dial indicator to make sure i weld the centers correctly. now that i realize how much crap i need to buy.... this probly won't start till june, and probly won't be done till july. but we'll see.

i'm waiting on my $32 socket from napa to tear down the front 60 the rest of the way. i need to get another $32 socket for the rear so i can torque the thing down (i dont think a flat tip and hammer will cut it) but i believe autozone has the rear socket for like $13

edit: i will take pictures of the D.O.T. stamp on my 8 stud hummers

 

[redranger4.0]

edit: i will take pictures of the D.O.T. stamp on my 8 stud hummers

Thats good to know, cause the 12 bolts are hard to find

 

[Mud Bug 94]

big water pump pliers(channel locks) will do fine for the rear i beleive

 

[mynameisaric]

i cant fit a torque wrench on channel locks. i'd rather spend the $15 for the tool and do it right.

 

[Mud Bug 94]

true i have a calibrated elbow its hard to explain ya know?

 

[redranger4.0]

true i have a calibrated elbow its hard to explain ya know?

Me too, If i tighten something and it breaks, my elbow tells me I used to much torque, If I tighten something and it falls off my elbow tells me I didnt use enough....

 

[mynameisaric]

most bolts, i use my "calibrated elbow", but on bolts that hold bearings and such(which would suck if they failed at high speed) i use a torque wrench. my transfer case bolts were "elbow calibrated" because it was impossible to get a torque wrench on the upper bolts even with the body lift. but i have too many torque wrenches not to use em. i have a little 1/4" one that does 25 inlbs and above(forgot what the max is), then i have my traditional 1/2" drive 10 ftlbs to 150 ftlbs torque wrench, and then there is my favorite.... 3/4" drive 200-600ftlbs torque wrench. it is about 40 inches long. good for that 2nd gen ifs hub nut that requires a 32mm socket @200 ftlbs.

 

[mynameisaric]

got my tires today. Not the ones i wanted... but i couldnt pass em up. 36x12.50 wrangler rt's (yeah the military ones.. 4 ply not 10)

all 5 for $150

so who thinks i have enough junk in my garage? somewhere in the back of the photo are my new tires... next to the ones i cant even GIVE away.

 

['97 V8]

what a mess of axles. I cleaned up around my workspace today...dad was threatening to call one of his patients that wheels to take them if i hadn't cleaned up everything.

 

[Mud Bug 94]

must be the time to clean... i just emptyed my garage also to make room for my dana 60 and tires....I found a set of 36X15X16.5 dick cepeck somethin or others in the woods i am gunna use for mock up... they are shot of coarse but its better than the 29s i have now... and im gettin 4-8 lug 16.5X10 inch outlaw II's...if I get it all this weekend ill put up pics in my thread...

 

[mynameisaric]

that is "cleaned up" lol. my buddy is supposed to be taking the 4 tires i dont need. His dad needs the wheels for winter rims for plowing, and hopefully this guy is going to take the 44 and rear 60 off my hands. He needs matching ratios, so to make the sale, i have to sell him my rear 60 that i already started cleaning up. not that big of a deal though i guess. I only got the hubs cleaned and painted and all of the gunk stripped off of the housing.... guess i'll have to do it all again.

I liked how well the h1 rims stacked up on a drum dolly.

On another note, there should be some legitamate progress here in the next couple weeks... hopefully.... starting next paycheck

 

[mynameisaric]

So i am trying to compile a list of parts i need to get to do this swap. i don't have all the money right now.. but i plan to borrow it so i can get this done before school starts. I work about 2 miles away from my house, so i can deal without transportation for now, but i won't be able to deal without transportation in the fall. So i need to figure out how much i need to borrow to get this done. if you have a minute, please look at this list and let me know if i forgot anything.

on a side note, I am keeping track of all my expenses for this project in a spreadsheet so when i am done, i can give people an idea of what this kind of project costs.

PRODUCT LOCATION QUANTITY PRICE S&H TOTAL
DEDENBEAR KNUCKLES MACHINEWAVE (PIRATE VENDOR) 2 $265.00 INCLUDED $530.00
REAR DETROIT LOCKER (30 SPLINE) PERFORMANCEOFFROADCENTER.COM 1 $549.00 ??? $549.00
FRONT DETROIT LOCKER (35 SPLINE) PERFORMANCEOFFROADCENTER.COM 1 $549.00 ??? $549.00
KING PIN REBUILD KIT JEFFSBRONCOGRAVEYARD.COM 2 $49.00 $8.45 $106.45
HIGH STEER ARM HARSH TERRAIN (EBAY STORE) 1 $75.00 $10.00 $85.00
CHEVY TRE'S
HUMMER PVC INSERT USA6X6 5 $40.00 ?? $200.00
HUMMER WHEEL CENTER USA6X6 5 $40.00 ?? $200.00
REAR 5.38 R&P 1
FRONT 5.38 R&P 1
REAR R&P OVERHAUL KIT 1
FRONT R&P OVERHAUL KIT 1
REAR OUTER BEARING 2
FRONT OUTER BEARING 2
FRONT OUTER AXLE SEAL 2
REAR ROTOR 2
FRONT ROTOR 2
REAR CALIPER 2
FRONT CALIPER 2
R&P INSTALL LOCAL VENDOR 2 $160.00 $320.00
REAR DISK BRAKE BRACKET 2
FRONT BRAKE LINE 2
REAR BRAKELINE ?
F350 MASTER CYLINDER 1
91-94 STEERING BOX 1
FRONT D-SHAFT U-JOINT 1
CUSTOM REAR D-SHAFT 1
FRONT AXLE SHAFT U-JOINT 2
2"X.25" SQ. TUBE
2.5"X.25" SQ TUBE
TUBING FOR LINKS, PAN HARD & DRAGLINK
JOHNNY JOINT 2
BUSHING FOR FRONT LINK 3
SUPER FLEX COILS 5.5" JEFFSBRONCOGRAVEYARD.COM 1 $130.00 $16.91 $146.91
FRONT SHOCK 2
REAR SHOCK 2

 

[IZwack]

Ooof! I would save first and then buy. Don't borrow money for projects like this, it doesnt appreciate in monitary value over time

 

[mynameisaric]

i live at home. i have no credit. i couldnt borrow money on my own if i wanted to. its through mom & pops with their excellent credit = %5 apr.... i work full time and make decent money, so i'll have the borrowed money paid down in no time. i need to get this done though. or i have to wait till next year. it has already been a year since i have had 4wd. i dont want to make it 2 years.

and dont worry, i know my truck will be worth even less money when i am done lol

i appreciate you looking out for me though.