Need a diagnosis... (with video)

[Sandstone VR-4]

Hi All,

Been fighting with the Exploder (4.0L) for about a week now. Problems started when my wife said the car started flashing the SES light and was running like garbage. She limped it into Autozone and they pulled codes:

P0401
P0300
P0306
P0301

Anyways. I know the EGR valve needs to be replaced. I had pulled it off and thoroughly cleaned with carb cleaner. Re-installed it, but it still runs rough. SES light came back on and the only code it threw was p0401. I believe the valve may have been stuck open, causing the misfires.

Seems to be low on power. Roughness isn't unbearable, but noticeable (moreso at lower speeds). Gas mileage at lower speeds is AWFUL. Seems to be normal at highway speeds.

At any rate, I was poking around under the engine bay, as I'll be changing the belt tensioner this afternoon. I was playing with some of the vacuum lines to see if I could track down a leak somewhere. While doing so, I was getting a systematic "click" from the engine bay.

For the life of me, I cannot track down the source of the noise. It appears to be coming from under the intake manifold, but can't be sure. Sounds like a switch of some sort. Was hoping someone here might have experience and can pinpoint it for me. Please take look at the video and tell me your thoughts.

* It is not coming from the AC compressor clutch engaging *

Thanks!

 

[Sandstone VR-4]

Oh yeah... forgot to mention.

Replaced Crank Sensor, plugs, and wires within the past 7 days....

 

[Sandstone VR-4]

not sure... maybe thermostat?

Any ideas?

 

[Sandstone VR-4]

Noise located!

It appears to be coming from the crank pulley!

I replaced this part a couple of years ago, as the pulley had separated from the core.

After looking at the crank pulley, which is wobbling a bit, there appears to be a plastic ribbing between the pulley, where it meets the engine block. The click coincides with this plastic piece stopping momentarily.

Guessing this has something to do with the misfire?

Anybody else have this particular piece of the crank pulley fail?!

 

[Foo392]

Yes, that part of the crank pulley is called the harmonic balancer, there is a sticky at the top addressing those. Also, you may not need to replace your EGR valve, they rarely go bad. Most of the time it's the little black sensor located to the left of the EGR valve, that is the DPFE sensor, it has a wire connection to it and is connected to the engine via two rods at the bottom. The DPFE sensor controls your EGR valve.

 

[Sandstone VR-4]

Yes, that part of the crank pulley is called the harmonic balancer, there is a sticky at the top addressing those. Also, you may not need to replace your EGR valve, they rarely go bad. Most of the time it's the little black sensor located to the left of the EGR valve, that is the DPFE sensor, it has a wire connection to it and is connected to the engine via two rods at the bottom. The DPFE sensor controls your EGR valve.

Thanks for the response, Foo!

From what I've read, there's no DPFE on the 2004 and up. The EGR valves are a non-serviceable unit.

Do you happen to know if the faulty balancer would cause rough idle, misfire, etc? It's right next to the crank position sensor, so when it stops, I'm guessing that be causing the issue? Still trying to figure out how that sensor works, as I can't see how it "reads" crank position. Seems to be mechanically "detached" from anything...

 

[Sandstone VR-4]

For clarification, the cracked portion of the pulley assembly, which keeps "clicking" when it stops momentarily is indicated in the below photo. Could it be causing the Exploder to run like crap?

 

[CDW6212R]

The video link goes to a page that says private video.

The balancer shouldn't cause any noises, and only if the thing was coming apart would it affect the timing.

That plastic piece is just a dust guard, it shouldn't touch anything. If it is stopping then it has let go and the noise if it touched something would just be from two parts rubbing. I'd try to straighten it out if it can be, RTV it in place etc, if possible. It just keeps debris from getting to the crank seal, the engine would likely be fine without it.

I would look for the miss to be from something else. Do inspect the balancer to see if anything is obvious to suggest it has "spun" on itself. Wasn't that what the Ford bulletin was about?

 

[CDW6212R]

I saw the video, just now, my PC had a modem issue before and the only link went to youtube.

That sounds like an exhaust leak, and the random snap I gather is what you think is the plastic guard stopping etc. Maybe for some reason it has moved back and is contacting something that is stopping it momentarily.

 

[Sandstone VR-4]

Thanks Don,

Didn't notice that the video wasn't viewable. Fixed!

While inspecting the pulley, there is a leak around the seal where it meets the engine block. There is a silverish-grey, oily substance coming from it. Not enough to drip, but there's a thin coat of the stuff around that dust seal and on the crank position sensor.

There is a definite "wobble" to the crank pulley right now. I am beginning to wonder if the "rough idle" I think I'm experiencing is a byproduct of the pulley vibration?

 

[Sandstone VR-4]

I saw the video, just now, my PC had a modem issue before and the only link went to youtube.

That sounds like an exhaust leak, and the random snap I gather is what you think is the plastic guard stopping etc. Maybe for some reason it has moved back and is contacting something that is stopping it momentarily.

Thanks Don,

Just updated the privacy setting on the vid. I was able to visually validate that the "click" is coming from the momentary stoppage of the cracked dust shield. It's pretty obvious, as I can make out the ribbing on the plastic at the same moment the "click" occurs.

 

[Sandstone VR-4]

I also think the "exhaust leak" noise you hear is the sensitivity of the microphone. You can hear a ton of valvetrain clatter in the video that's not as obvious in real life.

 

[CDW6212R]

If the pulley is visibly not true, that suggests the balancer has begun to come apart. That should be super rare, basically only after 150k miles etc, 20 years maybe. I doubt that they have a warantee that will replace them at anything over a few months to a year.

The front crank seal shouldn't allow oil out but for the tiniest amount, weeping. If you do have to go back into it, replace the seal again. That's always wise when you can replace any front or rear seal on the engine or trans.

 

[Foo392]

Oh yeah, I forgot about the year difference, so used to giving advice similar to my 2002. Sorry about that. When I get back I'll look in my service manual troubleshooting area for any symptoms similar to yours.