Need Help/Advice on Full Brake Job

[rowekmr]

Hello
I'm on my 3rd Explorer but haven't done any maintenance on them myself. The dealership said I need all pads and rotors because the pads are 5% and the rotors are heavily corroded. I looked at the rotors and the surface where the pads contact is smooth and shiny but they are corroded in the vanes and elsewhere. These are OEM Ford rotors only a few years old that were replaced with the pads. I have asked around and some say the corrosion is normal and others say new style rotors are only good for the life of the pads. Should I bother to try to get them checked to see if there is enough material left to cut or just toss them. Also what aftermarket brand that is commonly available should I get for the pads and rotors. I want something that is at least as good as factory but don't need anything exotic or high end.

Now for the questions on the procedures. Any books that might detail the process? Or anyone have pictures they can post or send me? Also what holds the rotors on the front and rears? Is it a bolt? Any special tools require to remove calipers? What is the process to compress the piston back in the caliper? Any special tools required? How are the parking brake shoes replaced? The last time I did brakes where on a 88 Mustang and it had 2 bolts for the caliper up front and rear drums. Thanks in advance for any help...

 

[crazymind]

There are two bolts the hold the caliper on, to compress them I use a c clap to push the piston back in. The rotors are "floating" rotors so when you take the caliper and caliper bracket off you can just pull it off. Sometime a light tap will knock it lose if its stuck. I would get them measured to see if their worth turning, all the cars I've own have had some corrosion on them as I live in Colorado and the stuff they put on the road is some kinda mix with salt and other chemicals. How bad they get depends on were you live.hope that helps

 

[joecrna]

The parking brake is a mouse trap, a real pain to do. The haynes manual has good pictures and a description of a brake change.

 

[Lukas2009]

Here are two links where you find a description on how to change rotors and pads. Really easy!

http://explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=277354
http://explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=277458

 

[feetwet]

You'll need a biga$$ wrench to break main the caliper bolt free as it generally has loctite on the threads!

 

[jdc28va]

Do some research, maybe find a friend to help if you're still hesitant, but definitely do it yourself. Just replace the rotors; you can find everything you need at rockauto.com. Chances are you won't have to mess with the parking brake at all (just make sure it's not engaged while trying to remove the rear rotor!)

You'll be shocked by how easy it is. Loosening the caliper bracket bolts will be the hardest part, as some one mentioned. Be very careful not to strip them, especially if you are using air.

 

[thebrakeman]

Basic brake jobs are essentially the same, with minor details being different. Like someone said, get a friend to help you do the job first time, and you will feel comfortable yourself the next time. It comes down to differences in attachment methods, etc.

I've now done all 4 corners on our '06 Mounty (purchased used in 2010). Before I changed the fronts, corrosion had actually worked it's way under the outer braking surface on the right rotor. The surface was nice and shiny, but the vents were almost completely blocked with corrosion, and the week before I was planning to do the brakes, that outer surface (which looked fine) broke loose, leaving shrapnel all down the driveway, leaving a 3/4" ring of corrosion, which of course now did not even touch the pads.

All rotors are now made in China, so it's not like you can ask for the Made in USA version. You'll even find some trying to trick you by saying "Finished/Machined in USA" which means the castings were poured at a Chinese foundary. Bad news is, not made in USA. Good news is, they are low cost enough to simply buy new ones every time you do the pads.

I recommend you simply find rotors that have the "hat" coated (usually black ecoat). The hat what the wheel mounts to, and does not wear. If you have wheels that show this area, you want it coated, so it doesn't show surface rust. The cheapest ones simply have a rust inhibitor which washes off the first rain. I made the mistake on my Mazda3 (very open wheels) of not getting coatings there, and it looks horrible. I now need to sand and paint them myself.