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Need opinion on shocks for 95 Limited...

spotdog14

Well-Known Member
Joined
December 10, 2002
Messages
341
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City, State
East Lansing, MI
Year, Model & Trim Level
'02 XLT
Hello everyone, haven't been here in a while.

So my shocks are shot! haha, on my 95 limited. And as many of you know they are those air shocks that cost an arm and leg to replace. So i am looking into options of what to replace them with, how, and can i turn off the air ride system without it telling me on the message center that the air ride is off?

The dealership wants $450ish to switch over from air ride to traditional shocks (Motorcraft shocks) and Sears wants $250 to swap out the old air ride shocks with Monroe shocks (the silver ones).

Anywho what do you guys think? How is it done? I know how to change the shocks themselves, but im not quite sure how to disable the air ride system without the message showing up on the message center.

And what type of shocks do you think i should get, this vehicle is never offroad, always on pavement, i know that makes a difference (i want a nice riding shock).

Thanks guys!
 



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they just unbolt like regular shocks, nothing special. $250 is a rip off


i forget the way to do it, but you can circumvent the system by tieing a sensor up out of the way or something, its been covered on here, might want to do a search
 






I got an oil change, alignment, all four shocks installed, and a tranny service for 391.

I went with the monroe sensa-track light truck shocks and noticed MAJOR stability compared to the shot stock shocks. They are firm on casual road driving and give petty well offroad (light). I recommend them.
 






I got the gabriel max (the best ones) for $100 total new online, but the install was $155.
 






The Bilstein shocks are considered to give the best street handling with a good ride, ask Mike above. The Bilsteins are about $275 for four, the Monroe's will be under $200 for four.

FYI, to disable the ARC system(and the message in the MC), pull the radio out, and disconnect the ARC module. The ARC module is directly to the right of the radio, with two connectors on top. You could also in addition go pull the two fuses, but it's not necessary.

Please report back about how easy it was to disconnect the module, and good luck.
 






My wife's 1995 Limited is sitting in the driveway with the front left mud flap nearly touching the ground and the back right reaching for the sky. It's growling like a pig at the county fair, obviously a malfunctioning air ride system.

We drive it once a month, maybe. Just keeping it around for snow storms and hauling.

From other posts it sounds like standard shocks are the way to go. Does anyone who has made the switch from air to standard have any regrets? Is air ride replacement around a grand? Sounds like standard shocks should be $300-$400.?

Any advice on the chain shops verses dealer verses independent?

Thanks!
 






Monroe ReFlex have been great for me
 






I just replaced my shocks with SensaTracs last night- took me a couple of hours of work. I ordered mine from Summit Racing (I have a buddy that can get a good discount) but if you were to buy them normally, they would be about $180 to your door for 2 fronts and 2 rears with the website prices.

I took a 60 mile ride today, and they are night and day from what was on there... but that isn't much perspective- this is what I had on there:

100_4985.jpg


Factory shocks all 4 corners- 181,000 miles of service... Snowball rides a little different now. :confused:
 






I just replaced my shocks with SensaTracs last night- took me a couple of hours of work. I ordered mine from Summit Racing (I have a buddy that can get a good discount) but if you were to buy them normally, they would be about $180 to your door for 2 fronts and 2 rears with the website prices.

I out sensatracs on a couple years ago, they're slightly rough but not too bad, and I haul a lot of building materials around so they were needed. I paid mayb $40 each I think at a parts store. Installation in the front's very easy, the rear though were a PITA, because of the bolts at the top (between the frame and trunk floor pan) which were rusted and had very little room to get a wrench in
 






Bullpuckey! The rears are easy!

Hell- I only spent an HOUR AND A HALF swearing at the LAST bolt on the LAST shock which was yes- on the rear shock, front bolt, driver's side. Friggin' thing... :D Total job was 3 hours, 20 minutes. Last shock was 1 hour 25 minutes of it... I would have cut the damn thing off, but it was the principle of the thing- I was NOT losing to that damn bolt... LOL!

Ride is soooo much better now.
 






Bullpuckey! The rears are easy!

Hell- I only spent an HOUR AND A HALF swearing at the LAST bolt on the LAST shock which was yes- on the rear shock, front bolt, driver's side. Friggin' thing... :D Total job was 3 hours, 20 minutes. Last shock was 1 hour 25 minutes of it... I would have cut the damn thing off, but it was the principle of the thing- I was NOT losing to that damn bolt... LOL!

Ride is soooo much better now.

an hour an a half on that 1 bolt sounds like a PITA to me :)

Mine were the originals that had 120k miles of rust on them. Your '95 might have a little bit more clearance to get a wrench in than my '98.
 






Trust me- it was an hour and a half of pure joy. :D Damn bolt!

I know only one bolt allowed me a socket on each side, and the other required a socket-wrench/open end wrench. Of course the angle + blot resized from rusting = WTF?!?!

Still though- 3 and a half hours well spent.
 






I installed the Edelbrock Performer IAS shocks on my 96 Sport.....had 150,000 miles on OE shocks, needless to say it rode like a lumber truck on a bad road all the time. Night and day difference, I also installed Energy suspension poly bushings all the way around....upper and lower control arms, front and rear sway bars.....the truck is more stable than new i think....still is bumpy, but thats cause the short wheelbase...:D
 






Night and day difference, I also installed Energy suspension poly bushings all the way around....upper and lower control arms, front and rear sway bars.....the truck is more stable than new i think....still is bumpy, but thats cause the short wheelbase...:D

How hard was it to install the control arm bushings? Any special tools needed?
 






I took the control arms, lower and upper, to a shop...Pep Boys...they pressed the old ones out and the new ones in. cost me 65 for all.
 






I put Reflex shocks on my 2000 Sport about a year ago. I'm used to riding in a passenger car so the ride still feels both stiff AND uncontrolled to me (yeah, weird huh) but definitely an improvement over the stock (blown) shocks. I've heard the Edlebrock shocks are the best.
 






I've got the IAS shocks on my Mountaineer still, at about 64k they were worn out in front. I have read of how good the Bilsteins are for a long time. I have five of those ready to go on, hopefully this weekend. They are supposed to give a better ride than all others.
 






I took the control arms, lower and upper, to a shop...Pep Boys...they pressed the old ones out and the new ones in. cost me 65 for all.

I think that's what I'm going to do.. a lot cheaper than buying a press or having the shop do the entire replacement
 



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I also installed Energy suspension poly bushings all the way around....upper and lower control arms,

Do you happen to know what the part number is for the control arm bushings? I have been looking and they are not listed in their catalog anymore.
 






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