Need replacement for Moog upper ball joint boots

[lobo411]

If you now have 182,000 miles on your original OE ball joints and the boots have been torn for a while I pretty sure they're worn out. I bet if you get around to changing them you'll be amazed at how worn they really are.

Maybe whether the Motorcraft price is worth it or not depends on use. If I expected to put another 100k on the truck in the next 5-7 years, I'd probably go aftermarket. I only put about 2000 miles on it, though, so I'd probably shell out for the Motorcraft parts because I'd think of them as "lifetime."

Ya, my original ball joints are most likely worn, but it's hard to say how badly. It still handles fine, and I don't have any clunking or popping sounds while steering or going over speed bumps or anything. I do have squeaking when I go over speed bumps, but the squeaking happens when the front wheels clear the bump and then it happens again when the rear wheels clear the bump. I read a thread somewhere that suggested that the squeaks are caused by worn torsion bar Kevlar pads, which can't be serviced.

 

[Floridacatfan2020]

Koda - did you ever get European boots or just give up

 

[Mbrooks420]

When I ran mudders I had the best luck with the factory joints, by far. Otherwise I was burning out the others every year or two, at most. Always used MOOG and other top quality parts, when not factory. They were a disappointment.

 

[J_C]

^ But is that better? I mean the factory upper BJs need an entire control arm swap (left side, or the caster portion on the right) and alignment done, while popping out a failed Moog BJ alone to put a new one in, so leaving the control arms alone and not needing an alignment seems like less hassle, even if you have to buy an extra BJ so when you take a bad one out, you already have one to swap in and can then get the warranty replacement for the failed BJ without having downtime while you're waiting.

 

[J_C]

I do have squeaking when I go over speed bumps, but the squeaking happens when the front wheels clear the bump and then it happens again when the rear wheels clear the bump. I read a thread somewhere that suggested that the squeaks are caused by worn torsion bar Kevlar pads, which can't be serviced.

I get squeaking over bumps or even regular suspension travel more than a little bit from my polyurethane sway bar bushings... time to re-grease them. When my lower BJs went out the only noise I heard was clunking as the suspension settled back down after bumps.

Although I don't think you can get just the pads, I vaguely recall people have gotten the entire key that has it already on, but not cheap at around $50 each. I mean for your '96, as that changed in '98 IIRC.

What about grease? Has anyone tried greasing the pad area to get rid of noise?

 

[Mbrooks420]

^ But is that better? I mean the factory upper BJs need an entire control arm swap (left side, or the caster portion on the right) and alignment done, while popping out a failed Moog BJ alone to put a new one in, so leaving the control arms alone and not needing an alignment seems like less hassle, even if you have to buy an extra BJ so when you take a bad one out, you already have one to swap in and can then get the warranty replacement for the failed BJ without having downtime while you're waiting.

Replacing your ball joints should require having an alignment done, anyways. I’d rather get a few years out of a little more work. My time is worth far more than having to swap ball joints for every single inspection. Not only that, the more they wear, the more they eat up your expensive tires.

 

[J_C]

^ There is no need to get an alignment done if just swapping out the upper BJs out of the control arms, leaving the control arms on and not touching the control arm bolts. You haven't altered anything dimensionally, if swapping same Moog (or whoever) BJ with another of the same.

This assumes that your last alignment was done with the BJs in good shape still. If they were already shot when the last alignment was done then the alignment tech should catch and indicate that problem. If you already needed an alignment due to some other problem then whether you changed the BJs wasn't the factor.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Too many variables. If you wanted them to be exact you’d have to have exact matching joints(highly doubtful) and have a new alignment to start with. Chances are in the year, or two, they last you’ll almost certainly need a new alignment anyways.

 

[donalds]

After I ate up a set of new tires I do a alignment after any front end work
$400 lesson lol

 

[J_C]

I've never needed an alignment every couple years. It was done when my last (prior to current) set of tires were put on (maybe a decade ago?), and they wore fine and were replaced with tread still on them due to old age (rubber hardening so poor wet traction and slowly leaking sidewalls), even though my lower BJs wore out.

During their service I replaced all but my top left BJ since it does require an alignment due to the factory BJ being built into the control arm. They continued to wear fine as are my replacement tires. I check my tires often, made it a habit because my old ones kept losing air, lol.

If I had to do suspension work because I hit something hard enough to cause damage, then sure, I'd assume I need an alignment. I figure my BJ's died mostly due to all the potholes around here, but it was progressive wear, not a single event.

There are many variables that can cause a need for an alignment, but replacing an upper BJ *alone* (not the control arm) with the same make/model, introduces no variables. If you had an alignment done with worn out BJs and THEN put new ones on, maybe. I don't like letting anyone touch my vehicles so I remove the chance that an alignment tech will try to do an alignment on worn out parts.

 

[donalds]

I check my tires often, made it a habit because my old ones kept losing air, lol.

Likewise

 

[C420sailor]

I am compulsive about maintenance. Part is the pilot in me, but I digress. I find that a worn component tends to accelerate wear in other components in the system, so it’s best to stay on top of things. I would get apprehension around changing oil too frequently, as that can add up ($$$), but a few extra pumps of the grease gun certainly isn’t going to hurt a thing, wallet included.

For steering and suspension, I usually go with the premium Moog stuff, and it lasts. Exceptions? Hubs: Timken. Steering racks: Motorcraft. LCAs: Motorcraft. Reason for the LCAs? Moog LCAs are too loose where the torsion bar inserts. Your vehicle will clatter down the road unless you tack weld them in place.

Motorcraft makes high quality parts, but usually at a premium price.

 

[Floridacatfan2020]

I’m going for a replacement boot I have - will update I’d I have positive results

 

[J_C]

So did anyone figure out what the right dimensions are for an upper BJ boot?

Edit: I mean both for the Moog, but also dimensions for my Motorcraft OE upper BJ which is servicable but needs the boot replaced. Apparently they do not take the same size boot.

 

[C420sailor]

Nerp.

I’ve just been greasing mine religiously. They’re not gonna last. When they go, I’m going to swap in some mevotech arms

Moog really pissed me off with these

 

[J_C]

I suppose I'll have to DIY. I'll measure it and provide that at some point soon in the future.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto. I bought the other BJ pair of urethane boots and was planning to try to figure out the uppers, before taking the spindle loose.

 

[swshawaii]

After hours of searching and comparing dimensions I came up with these. Although the lower flange is not a snap fit like Moogs K80012 replacement UPPER ball joint for the K8708T driver side and K80068 passenger side one piece, and K8710T passenger side two piece UCA's. Poly boots stretch over the outer flange and seem to seal well once the suspension is loaded with the front tires on the ground. I'm lowered 3 inches so my UCA angles are more extreme than stock height would be. They may work even better for stock height.
Ball Joint Dust Boots - Dodge Dart - 5.13102

 

[J_C]

Thanks swshawaii. That page has both upper and lower. I assume it is the shorter of the two that fits?

Pin Opening Diameter Base Opening Diameter Height of Boot Piece Number
18.55mm (0.73 inch) 41.25mm (1.625 inch) 27.75mm (1.092 inch) 13009

If so, I noticed they sell those 13009 in bulk, at $4/pc so a buck cheaper for a pair:

Energy Suspension bulk-13009 bulk-13009 | Suspension.com

bulk part made by Energy Suspension | bulk-13009 bulk-13009.

www.suspension.com

But then I noticed, 13009 also crosses to 9.13130 which they sell a two pack of for 5:

Replacement Ball Joint Dust Boots, Polyurethane 9.13130

These polyurethane dust boots will replace the old rubber dust boots on your ball joints. You can repair your old ball joint simply by replacing the cheap boot. | Energy Suspension 9.13130

www.suspension.com

Amazon has that two pack of 9.13130 for $4:
Amazon product ASIN B000CN5F14
Next I started reading amazon reviews and found this one stating they are too small for the upper on a '98 Explorer:

Check out this Amazon review of Energy Suspension- 9.13130G BALLJOINT BOOT

doesn't fit. too small.

www.amazon.com

Next I found a review stating similar to what swshawaii did, that they work by being held in place on a '95 Explorer:

Check out this Amazon review of Energy Suspension- 9.13130G BALLJOINT BOOT

Cheap fix for torn ball joint & tie rod boots

www.amazon.com

Guess I'll give them a try, ordered off amazon. It's going to be *fun* trying to non-destructively get the BJ out of the knuckle. Seems like I recall previously, a chisel in the back seam, helped to slightly loosen up the knuckle, or break the stud's rust bond after it sat with penetrant on it, or something.

 

[swshawaii]

Shorter 13009 for lowers. Longer 13024 for uppers.

Just a reminder that I posted this for lower boots back in 5/21

Moog Quality

Just a shout out to @Josh P Finally. Thanks so much for your heads up on the ES 9.13130 lower ball joint boots. I've tried MANY other replacements resulting in poor fit and spent too much buying Moog ball joints for just the boots. These ES replacements seem almost custom fit for the older...

www.explorerforum.com