New Engine and Tranny (Automatic), same symptoms as hold tranny. Engine studders in D and other gears.

[BadaBingM3]

So this might be a slightly long description but I'll layout the history and symptoms. I just installed a new engine and 5R55E Automatic transmission purchased from Powertrain products. I have the 4.0 OHV and it started up just fine and runs great except when I try to move forward in D or 2,1. R is a bit better but still there is a dip in rpm's initially. I have made sure I ran through the gears and let the new oil work it's way through all the areas of the transmission, I believe, and it is fully serviced with new oil. The problem actually started a month ago with the old engine and transmission (257,000 miles) Transmission had 95,000 on it. All of a sudden as I pulled out of a parking lot, it stumbled and barely would move in D as I limped home a few blocks away. Reverse was much more functional and I had to get into my garage in 1st gear up a slight incline. That was a month ago with the old transmission.

I decided to put in a new engine and tranny as the old engine was just old and had valve chatter and not worth fixing for the money vs. getting just putting in a new engine. During reassembly, I notice and had to re insulate almost all of the wiring at the transmission cable large blue capped plug that is forward of the shifter lever on the transmission. The wires from the factory as they were twisted and bent to accommodate the blue cover, tore all the insulation. I mention this because I wonder if that day a month ago, something shorted out in the ECM (computer) and that may be the problem <?>. picture of the plug after I cleaned away 20 years of dirt and oil and my fix.

So today I filled all the fluids, primed the engine, got it running, checked the new transmissions oil level, added as required as it was warmed up. No engine check lights related to transmission issues by the way. I will add I should have changed out the shift cable as it is pretty sloppy now even more so with the new transmission and I did have problems starting in P and had to wobble and reset the P detente to get the engine to start. After running in the gears while in PARK, I finally reversed and out of my garage. Seemed to be ok until I tried to move forward in D. Engine stumbled and shuddered even when I gave it a little gas. Barely moved forward. Did the gear shifting from R to D, 2, then 1, then 2, etc. for about 2-3 minutes each gear. Checked oil level, still good. Tried to move forward a gain, felt maybe 5% better but I still struggled to move up the 2 degree incline back into my garage spot. In P or N, engine runs smooth, revs and throttle response is good. I also reset the computer by via wire from the positive terminal to the negative cable disconnected from the battery (wire with alligator clips connecting the two to reset the computer as suggested). What all do you suggest might be the issue? Clearly I don't think it's the new transmission as the problem is exactly the same as it was with the old transmission.

PLEASE HELP!

Cheers!
Rob

 

[koda2000]

Is your MAF sensor plugged in and is your intake tube in good condition and connected?

 

[410Fortune]

Dang sorry to hear about your troubles!

Is the check engine light on? You said you do not have any trans related codes, but what about the engine codes?

There are a couple of things to check for your "lack of power" issue that existed before the new drive train
Obviously we are looking at things that were there before and are still there now:
Fuel pressure. You should test fuel pressure
Exhaust flow, Could a cat converter be clogged?
PCM, any engine codes?

You likely do not need a new shifter cable, you may just need to fix the column shifter, there are bushing in the column shifter assembly that go bad and some bolts that like to get loose.

You are using Mercon V only in the new trans, correct?

I have a 2000 5r55e and 4.0 drivetrain downstairs if you want me to sell you a new transmission wiring plug! That one you have is jacked up! Those wires are subject to alot of heat, road grime and fluids....that harness really needs to be in good condition! Did you solder those connections?

 

[BadaBingM3]

Is your MAF sensor plugged in and is your intake tube in good condition and connected?

Yes. No codes for that either.

 

[BadaBingM3]

Dang sorry to hear about your troubles!

Is the check engine light on? You said you do not have any trans related codes, but what about the engine codes?

There are a couple of things to check for your "lack of power" issue that existed before the new drive train
Obviously we are looking at things that were there before and are still there now:
Fuel pressure. You should test fuel pressure
Exhaust flow, Could a cat converter be clogged?
PCM, any engine codes?

You likely do not need a new shifter cable, you may just need to fix the column shifter, there are bushing in the column shifter assembly that go bad and some bolts that like to get loose.

You are using Mercon V only in the new trans, correct?

I have a 2000 5r55e and 4.0 drivetrain downstairs if you want me to sell you a new transmission wiring plug! That one you have is jacked up! Those wires are subject to alot of heat, road grime and fluids....that harness really needs to be in good condition! Did you solder those connections?

Transmission is under warranty by Powertrain so if that was the case they are responsible, thanks for the offer of yours though.

I did use Mercon V as directed by Hayne's and also Powertrain products. I have not had the chance to see if this issue exists with a cold start.

I replaced the fuel pressure sensor with a new one, in fact most of any sensors on the engine are all new. I've cleaned and repaired all possible cables that were exposed such as the picture of the transmission connector shows. I did not resauder them, just cleaned and individually wrapped with high temp electrical tape. The downstream O2 sensor cables to the female plug were even in worse shape, had a code for that thrown before I did the engine/tranny swap and rerapped those exposed wires with electrical tape and looks like that code is gone.

The only current engine code is P1451 reading "Evaporator Emission system. Vent control circuit. This is new and no idea why I'm getting it. But in idle and with some slight throttle inputs, engine is running fine.

 

[koda2000]

Yes. No codes for that either.

Did you install a new torque converter with your transmission? When you say a "new" engine and trans do you mean someone else's used junk or reman'd stuff?

 

[BadaBingM3]

Did you install a new torque converter with your transmission? When you say a "new" engine and trans do you mean someone else's used junk or reman'd stuff?

All new from Power Train products. New engine, new torque converter, new transmission and a lot of new sensors, emissions stuff, etc. But like I said in the original post, the stumbling problem when trying to move forward in DRIVE or other gears is the same as it was with the old engine, old transmission and I had no related codes then nor now.

 

[koda2000]

All new from Power Train products. New engine, new torque converter, new transmission and a lot of new sensors, emissions stuff, etc. But like I said in the original post, the stumbling problem when trying to move forward in DRIVE or other gears is the same as it was with the old engine, old transmission and I had no related codes then nor now.

It doesn't make sense that you have the same issue with a different engine and trans. I'm wondering if you might have a t-case issue as you're 4WD. I'm not a 4WD guy, but t-case problems might explain your problem. Let's see what the 4WD guys have to say.

 

[BadaBingM3]

It doesn't make sense that you have the same issue with a different engine and trans. I'm wondering if you might have a t-case issue as you're 4WD. I'm not a 4WD guy, but t-case problems might explain your problem. Let's see what the 4WD guys have to say.

I highly doubt the transfer case has anything to do with this. Possible? I suppose but just don't see it so as the only electrical cable going to it is as far as I can tell, not directly connected to nor interfaces with the main engine harness where there are two cables that do go to the transmission.

 

[410Fortune]

P1451
I would solve that code first

Ford P1451 EVAP Control System Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit Malfunction

www.obd-codes.com

to re cap:

Runs good in Park or N
Engine stumbles when you put it in D or 1 and does not have enough power to climb the driveway into the garage
When not in gear the engine runs smoothly and has good throttle response

 

[BadaBingM3]

P1451
I would solve that code first

Ford P1451 EVAP Control System Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit Malfunction

www.obd-codes.com

to re cap:

Runs good in Park or N
Engine stumbles when you put it in D or 1 and does not have enough power to climb the driveway into the garage
When not in gear the engine runs smoothly and has good throttle response

Correct. I was thinking I should solve that emissions problem too. Although I am positive (99%) not related to the problem because again, this problem with getting in Drive already existed exactly the same before I installed the new engine/tranny and at that time, only code I had that was recent was for the rear O2 sensor, which by the way I found all four wires were exposed as well and had to tape them up to insulate them. That code is now gone. I'm hoping this issue is either in the ECM, the shift cable and/or the shift position sensor, which I'm installing today. I just hope it's not a wiring issue I have to chase down. My dad was the electrician, I turned mechanic for a reason. lol!

 

[410Fortune]

the DTRS, digital transmission range sensor or as Chevy guys call it the Neutral Safety switch or as you said shift position indicator
The DTRS gets installed with the trans in N
The Column shifter should be in N
The DTRS has lines on it that show the correct N position
Line it up and bolt it down
Then connect the shift cable

It is very important that the DTRS is installed correctly and you use the correct one.....96-97.5 were analog while 99-01 sent digital signals

 

[BadaBingM3]

the DTRS, digital transmission range sensor or as Chevy guys call it the Neutral Safety switch or as you said shift position indicator
The DTRS gets installed with the trans in N
The Column shifter should be in N
The DTRS has lines on it that show the correct N position
Line it up and bolt it down
Then connect the shift cable

It is very important that the DTRS is installed correctly and you use the correct one.....96-97.5 were analog while 99-01 sent digital signals

Right. I have a new one from Ford I got the other day and will install it today.

 

[BadaBingM3]

So update. Finally got it running. I had found the fuse (15A) that goes to the Evap canister solenoid and a bunch of other stuff to be blown. Replaced the fuse and the solenoid. Started it up today and it ran smooth and shifted. Only issue I have now is the O/D isn't working but I think that is probably because I was in the steering column replacing the bushings on the shifter and maybe I messed something up in the wiring and will work on that in next few days. I don't know what could have blown that fuse. Perhaps right when the failure last month occurred it didn't give it time to set off the check engine light but the failure was there. Something shorted it out. Either that solenoid did somehow (doubt it) or the wires I had found that kicked off the code for the rear O2 sensor prior to the engine stalling had something to do with it I'm guessing. I re-shielded those exposed wires and hopefully will never short that fuse out again. Man, what a load of stress off my back!

 

[410Fortune]

Well done

The oxygen sensors carry a bunch of power since they are heated, it is very common for issues with the 02 sensors to blow some fuses.......
So now you get to enjoy your new engine and transmission..............Congrats you have won this battle!!