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No power to fuel pump after engine swap

Which wires need to be jumped on the inertia switch?
 



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good suggestion (manual.... I assume since you "swapped" an engine, you must have "something" to refer to... maybe?... otherwise "WOW".... again). a search here would also produce something likely... but I'll "bite", to save you some effort hopefully.... try connecting to the PK/BK wire at the inertia switch (and yes those are the color codes for the wire).
 






I know that it is expensive, but I would suggest that you drop the coin for a factory service manual. Nothing could be more helpful, and since you have already done an engine swap, I would think that it is safe to say that you're invested in your X. If the $150 is too much, most FSM's have appendix's that you can buy separately for around 30 bucks or so, that would include wiring diagrams and electrical troubleshooting steps.
 






I don't have a factory service manual..but I did one better, and I looked up the wiring on AllData


The control wire, from the pcm, to the coil side of the relay (#80 pin at pcm, blue and orange) Has continutiy, however, test light across the coil side terminals in the fuse block does not yeild a test light. So, either my PCM is not signaling fuel pump, bad pcm, or bad connection of that blue and orange wire.

I can check the bad connection, but if that proves to be okay, Why would the PCM not signal fuel pump?
 






CPS??
I believe this has to give the correct signal to the pcm for it to allow fueling, tho don't quote me on that
 






Are you meaning crankshaft or camshaft positioning sensor?
 






Crankshaft. Try unplugging and re plugging a couple of times to clean the contacts
 






That didn't do the trick.

I've checked and verified the wires in and out of the fuse box for the fuel pump relay.

It is confirmed that the PCM is not signaling the relay, all other wires have continutity to there destination and doing as they should.

So..even though the theft light is doing as it should, I'm not convinced PATS isn't the issue.
 






again try the jumpering stuff that I suggested to at least get the engine started and "running forever" before you worry about other "stuff".
 






I had a guy come out tonight who does a lot of stuff, but particually re-progams PATS and PCM. We tried doing a re-program, even though the PATS didn't really show a problem.

It didn't work, but did show us a p1262 i wanna say, I don't remember becuase I didn't look at it; but it was a fuel pump circuit malfunction code (no *****...), it listed about 8 possible causes, all of which I checked...the last one said bad PCM.

I hate "bad PCM" because 9 times out of 10 its just a part you're throwing at it that won't end up being the problem.

But, we re-traced through everything, and thats the conclusion we lead to every time. But that also makes sense as to why the vehicle wouldn't stay running after I hard-wired the fuel pump. (I was assuming PATS, but PATS wasn't showing a problem)

Now, I asked him about what type of PCM to get, and he wasn't sure if I can get a junkyard PCM or not. I've been doing some searching, and it looks like I can get a junkyard PCM, as long as I then have him come back over and re-program the PCM and PATS....is this true?
 






Just so everyone knows, It was indeed a bad PCM, I got one at a junkyard, had my guy program it with PATS, and VOILA!

It started right up, ran great, no check engine lights, I put about 70 Miles on her today.

I took the old PCM apart, and on the back, in the middle, there was a little black mark, something must have burned up...sweet huh...
 






Good work on the in depth diagnosis and solution
 






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