No start after heater core replacement

[dieselphreak]

Hello, new here, but long time shadetree wrench and Ford fanatic.

Just got done replacing the heater core in g/f's '97 5.0 AWD. What a PITA that was. So, now, i have a no start condition. Will fire on starting fluid. Can't hear a fuel pump come on with the key. I have a P0232 code. A couple others, but thats the only fuel system related one. I have checked the interia switch, button is down. Swapped the FP relay and no change. I'm fairly new to my MT2500, but it doesn't show much of anything in the data area that looks out of the ordinary.

But, the ABS light is on, there are no stop lamps. I notice fuse 13 in the interior fuse panel is PCM, stop lamps, and abs. But, fuse is good. Replaced it anyways, no luck. Just seems odd that all the items for that fuse are giving me fits.

There was a connector, in the dash between the radio area and the airbag pocket. Blue, four large wires. Never did see where that was supposed to plug into after searching for an hour. I just left it for the time being.

No check eng. light. No flashing "theft". Just no start, and no stop lamps, and the ABS light on. I'm at the end of my knowledge.

Any help is appreciated. I'm finding this Ex is a far more complicated little bugger than the 92-96 fullsize trucks i'm used to.

 

[Turdle]

If you haven't already, try re seating the large PCM connector,

loosen the center bolt, pull it apart, and reconnect it tightening the center bolt well. This area is disturbed during the heater core--wait, heck I think you have to remove the PCM to replace the heater core so hopefully you forgot to tighten the PCM connector.

 

[2000StreetRod]

inertia switch electrical connector

Make sure the connector to the inertia switch is properly connected.

 

[dieselphreak]

i actually didn't have to pull any of the larger connectors. The big one on the driver's side didnt have to come, as I kind of swung the dash away from the firewall on the passenger side. The only thing I did with the computer was to remove it's ground and mounting bolts on the inside, which all got tightened up before reassembly. I will check the main harness on the driver's side. It may have loosened, I just figured i'd lose more than just fuel pump and brake lights in that case.

 

[2000StreetRod]

fuse 13?

Power to the brake lamps is via fuse 13 in the Interior Fuse Panel.

 

[dieselphreak]

Fuse 13 is a-ok. Replaced it anyways, no difference.

 

[2000StreetRod]

high mount brake light

Do none of the brake lights work (left, right, high mount)? If so, check the connector to the brake on/off switch.

Do the hazard warning flashers work?

 

[dieselphreak]

Flashers all work. Not a single brake light. So that could very well be the cause of the lack of brake lights. Which does concern me, just not as much as it not starting does.

 

[2000StreetRod]

battery disconnected?

Was the battery disconnected when you were swapping the heater core?

 

[2000StreetRod]

check engine light?

. . . No check eng. light. No flashing "theft". Just no start, and no stop lamps, and the ABS light on. . .

The Check Engine light should illuminate when the ignition is switched from Off to On to show the bulb is good. Please confirm the above.

 

[dieselphreak]

Yes, battery was disconnected for about 3 days. The check engine light does not come on when the key is turned.

 

[dieselphreak]

She informed me that the check engine light has never illuminated when turning the key, that she can remember.

 

[2000StreetRod]

That's what I suspected

That's what I suspected because if the there was no power to the PCM the engine would not fire on starting fluid.

Check Fuse 3 (20 amps) in the power distribution box.

 

[dieselphreak]

Full power at both ends of fuse #3 .

 

[dieselphreak]

Power to the inertia switch is good. Bypassed switch and still no fuel pump.

 

[2000StreetRod]

jump the relay

The fuel pump should run for a couple seconds when the ignition is switched from off to on and when the starter motor is cranking. It's hard for one person to hear it run either time. The PCM controls the fuel pump relay and also monitors the voltage to the inertia fuel shut-off switch.
P0232 Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit High
The above indicates that the PCM is not detecting the correct voltage to the inertia fuel shut-off switch. You posted that you swapped the fuel pump relay and I'm assuming that the vehicle sat for 3 days without running. The fuel pump may have power but not running. Or it may not be getting power due to an electrical problem: loose connector on power side, broken wire on power or ground side, or loose ground.

I suggest that you determine if the fuel pump is running. Put your ear near the fuel tank while your girlfriend turns on the ignition. If the pump doesn't run some members have "tapped" the tank with a rubber mallet (don't dent the tank) and the jolt has started the pump.

CAUTION: If that doesn't work you can remove the fuel pump relay and install a jumper wire between the connector sockets for pins 30 and 87. The pin numbers are marked on the relay. The power to pin 30 socket is always hot when the battery is connected so be careful. Use an insulated solid wire (not stranded) that is about the same size as the receptacle. Look at the thickness of the relay pins for the wire size. When the jumper is inserted the fuel pump should run continuously. If it does, then try and start the engine to determine if there are other problems.

 

[2000StreetRod]

slow typist

OK, I'm a slow typist and my U-Verse internet dropped off again so you're ahead of me.

If you have power to the inertia switch and when it is bypassed then there should be power to the pump. If the "tapping" doesn't work then the ground may be bad. As I recall the power goes from the inertia switch to another connector located on the inner side of the chassis rail in front of the fuel tank. The power goes from that connector to another connector in the vicinity of the fuel tank which is not accessible except by dropping the tank some. Ground returns thru the same two connectors and is grounded to the chassis under the front driver side kick panel. That is a major ground for multiple things and could explain why multiple things aren't working. Did you have the kick panel removed when replacing the heater core?

 

[dieselphreak]

Yes, I did have that ground off that is located below the kick panel on the passenger side. I did also double check that it was re-attached. Actually used that ground bolt when checking for power to the inertia switch.

 

[dieselphreak]

I know this could be a faulty fuel pump or connection near the tank, but it just seems odd for a vehicle that was running and driving fine prior to this core replacement.

 

[2000StreetRod]

driver (not passenger) side

Yes, I did have that ground off that is located below the kick panel on the passenger side. I did also double check that it was re-attached. Actually used that ground bolt when checking for power to the inertia switch.

The ground for the fuel pump is not on the passenger side. The ground wire has to come back from the fuel pump and the ground is on the driver side. Below is a photo of the connecter I referred to (midway back on inner side of driver chassis rail).

You can disconnect it and measure the resistance to chassis ground for the fuel pump ground pin (black wire).