Noise in 97' help - Timing?. Video clip included.

[babychipmunk]

So three weeks ago we took our 97 XLT 4WD to a mechanic for ticking noises under the hood and a bad front suspension.

DX: was bad tensioner belts and new upper control arms for the front. We decided to to buy what we needed online (We're overseas in Poland right now) but had them replace the tensioners through their supplier to get the ball moving.

Last week, after delays in finishing the repair they finally tell us on Wednesday that the belts didn't fix the noise that the entire timing system is bad. Took them two days to get us a quote for parts labor. To find out they want $1000 for the labor alone.

So we decided it wasn't worth it since we still had the additional fixes needed in addition to a tune up.

Today we're told the vehicle won't start. I'm assuming it started last week for them to be able to tell us the noise was still there. Today they said it started for 30 seconds, then shut off and won't restart.

So now we need to spend $100 to have it towed to either another shop and pay for a second opinion or at least tow it back to our house. We're sort of at that screw it point and will send it to be crushed.

Of course i do not want to admit we were sold a lemon (We purchased this in December) and want to minimize our loss.

Here is a video I took of the car. One is from about 2 weeks prior to taking it in. As you may notice the sound got louder.

Does it sound like it is the timing? And would replacing the tensioners now cause the car not to start if the timing was bad?

My dad, over the phone, has mentioned the pulley belt and said he doesn't think it was the timing.

Anyway any guidance would be appreciated. I don't really want to cut this out as a loss but I also don't feel like I can stomach pumping yet more money into it for there to be even more issues. Sadly, my husband doesn't know his way around a vehicle when it comes to repairs so he's of no help. 8X

First video

Second video a few weeks later...

 

[alohamonte]

You're too nice.

You gave them a running car, I wouldn't leave without a running car.

 

[babychipmunk]

See, I wondered about that.

We're in Poland, don't speak Polish so we had the service set up through the embassy where my husband works. Supposedly the shop is one they've used for the past 15 years. We have a third party who is hired by the embassy that escorts the vehicles and maintains all the middle man stuff until it's fixed. Like does the translations etc for us.

Since they could not fix it, they have agreed to not charge us for the belts/tensioners or the labor. Saving us $300

So it makes me wonder if they messed something up and that is why they are being generous to not charge for the parts/labor. And if I fight them to make it running does that mean I'll end up paying for the $300 afterall?

It's just a mess and I hate on so many levels right now that:
A) my dad can't be here (heh)
B) that I'm in another country where I am not comfortable like I would be back in the states
C) That my husband didn't listen to me when we were considering the purchase in having it inspected first.

 

[originalnitro]

sounds like the rear timing chain,how many miles on it?

 

[babychipmunk]

97,000 miles.

 

[originalnitro]

thats not many miles but if it was dogged may as well be 500,000 on it. if it is the rear chain the motor has to be pulled to replace it that why $1000 labor not counting $500+ for the timing set.

 

[babychipmunk]

Alright that would make some sense for their labor. Because it does say remove engine and reinstall and then a separate charge for the timing replacement labor. They don't say which chain is bad but it does list that we need two replacement chains so I'm assuming they believe both are.

 

[originalnitro]

there are 3, 1 rear and 2 front

 

[2000StreetRod]

chain rattle

I can't tell a great deal from the video but it could very well be metal to metal contact from one or more timing chains slapping against the guides or guide posts. The Ford prescribed timing chain rattle diagnostic process is first to replace the upper tensioners which usually does no good if the chains have already started to rattle. The chains rattle because the plastic type guide material has worn away. If the rattle comes from the rear, then it's likely the rear chain must be replaced. To do that requires either pulling the engine (preferred) or pulling the transmission (very awkward chain replacement method). The damage to the chain(s) could have advanced to the point that a chain slipped or broke so now the engine will not start. A simple compression test can verify if one or more chains have slipped or broken.

I would demand to see compression test results for the engine in its current state. No compression on one bank means a slipped or broken chain on that bank. No compression on both banks means the crankshaft to jackshaft chain has slipped or broken.

The front and left upper chains can be replaced without pulling the engine.