Not bearing or brakes. Front end squeak. Right turn only.

[RoyKelly2]

If the shaft isn’t factory, are you sure you got the right one? There are two lengths, although I think you’d pull the CV apart putting the shorter one in.

I do not know what the one was that was in the vehicle when I got it.

Yes I am sure I got the right one and am aware there are two lengths.

How do I get a factory one?

 

[RoyKelly2]

With the CV missing bolts, I also wonder if it even got seated properly in the TC pocket. If there was debris or anything there which didn't let the shaft end seat perfectly, that would force the CV end to constantly rotate out of alignment. That would increase the wear by a massive amount.



I looked at the previous picture on the last page, and it does look like it's not seated straight. I'd get back to the TC mounting pocket and look for any debris or damage there which could stop the CV shaft from seating into it properly. That shaft angle pictured should not be the problem.

The pocket was clean, all six bolts were in and torqued. That was a "new" shaft from Ford with new bolts and had just under 5,000 miles on it when it started making noise and 3 bolts were missing. I took the picture because of the issue. With half of the bolts gone it is not going to be straight. I replaced the bolts before driving the car

 

[CDW6212R]

The pocket was clean, all six bolts were in and torqued. That was a "new" shaft from Ford with new bolts and had just under 5,000 miles on it when it started making noise and 3 bolts were missing. I took the picture because of the issue. With half of the bolts gone it is not going to be straight. I replaced the bolts before driving the car

If that new Ford shaft made noise with less than 5000 miles on it, with three bolts missing, the problem was the shaft wasn't mounted properly at that time. The end of the shaft wasn't held tightly in place, that is what would destroy any CV joint very fast.

So discount that shaft entirely, that wasn't the fault of the shaft. Do you still have that shaft? If so, what does the end look like where the CV mounts, are those splines intact?

 

[Mbrooks420]

I do not know what the one was that was in the vehicle when I got it.

Yes I am sure I got the right one and am aware there are two lengths.

How do I get a factory one?

Well, you’re missing something pretty trivial. There’s not much it could be. You have some wrong parts, or something is bent. There’s no witchcraft going on.

You’d buy a factory one at a dealer. I would have one rebuilt after triple checking everything was right about the shaft.

 

[RoyKelly2]

If that new Ford shaft made noise with less than 5000 miles on it, with three bolts missing, the problem was the shaft wasn't mounted properly at that time. The end of the shaft wasn't held tightly in place, that is what would destroy any CV joint very fast.

So discount that shaft entirely, that wasn't the fault of the shaft. Do you still have that shaft? If so, what does the end look like where the CV mounts, are those splines intact?

I have that shaft, and can take it apart to look at the splines. I think you are thinking of a different driveshaft, mine has a 6 bolt cup style front output flange that encloses the CV joint. To look at the splines I have to pry off the cover and peel back the boot. It has no hesitation or grinding and I have not taken it apart.

I am torquing these to 22 Ft/LB (from Chilton and also referenced her Front Driveshaft Torque Specifications) and they should not have backed out

 

[Mbrooks420]

They backed out because the shaft was garbage and had too much vibration. You should be able to clip the oetiker clamp off and pull the entire CV off the shaft

 

[RoyKelly2]

Well, you’re missing something pretty trivial. There’s not much it could be. You have some wrong parts, or something is bent. There’s no witchcraft going on.

You’d buy a factory one at a dealer. I would have one rebuilt after triple checking everything was right about the shaft.

The dealer parts guy said it was new... and the bolts were tight, but backed out

 

[Mbrooks420]

The dealer parts guy said it was new... and the bolts were tight, but backed out

It was new, but probably junk. They backed out because the shaft was junk and vibrated too much.

 

[BenDT]

They backed out because the shaft was garbage and had too much vibration. You should be able to clip the oetiker clamp off and pull the entire CV off the shaft

Have you tried installing the shaft at 180 degrees. I believe these are balanced to fit one way. I could be wrong about that. I remember something about this shaft and orientation that was important. I had a jeep with double cv drive shaft. The pinion side kept getting eaten alive. It was the bearings into the unit. It was allowing the unit to bounce around when on highway and that ate them alive about as fast as you are saying. Just a thought? Is your four wheel engaged and not releasing. Front driveline on pavement would eat a cv fast as well

 

[BenDT]

Have you tried installing the shaft at 180 degrees. I believe these are balanced to fit one way. I could be wrong about that. I remember something about this shaft and orientation that was important. I had a jeep with double cv drive shaft. The pinion side kept getting eaten alive. It was the bearings into the unit. It was allowing the unit to bounce around when on highway and that ate them alive about as fast as you are saying. Just a thought? Is your four wheel engaged and not releasing. Front driveline on pavement would eat a cv fast as well

Also my sport has a major angle on the front of the shaft as well. I assume that is for when the vehicle is towing (squatting) and the rear driveline has so much more load and needs a linear driveline. I think the angle is ok. I also daily it into bottem out dirt holes. Climb fallen trees. And even let my girl wheel it and have bellied out on dirt after a little air. These t case brackets are bullet proof from my experience. I don’t think anything is bent myself. My money is on four wheel locked up. Do the tires squeal on a hot day when doing circles in a parking lot???

 

[CDW6212R]

The dealer parts guy said it was new... and the bolts were tight, but backed out

If that shaft was new OEM Ford, I'd look it over well, confirm that it is the proper length(V6 long not the shorter V8 unit), and install a new CV joint kit on it. I think the Dorman kit(only one available when I bought mine), came with six new bolts and the three steel clamps(the curved piece which goes under each pair of bolts).

As others have pointed out, a bad CV joint over time can ruin the shaft splines which it attaches to. So if that shaft is so low mileage, maybe the shaft is good enough to reuse. I'd bet the bolts came loose and then that ruined the CV joint, while losing three of the bolts.

I don't think there are any top quality CV joint kits for these shafts, Ford doesn't make one of course. The other brands seem to be competing for the lowest priced kit to sell. They are fighting to be the worst, evidenced by Detroit Axle in that prior link, claiming to have sold 463 of them so far. That's a huge number of soon to fail CV joints, I wonder how many will fail soon enough to have them file a claim and ask for a refund etc.

Dorman has a poor reputation in general, but they do make a massive number of replacement parts. They are dominant right now for that reason, and likely will be for a long time. So I don't tell people to run and buy their parts, but they are the only choice for countless items.

 

[CDW6212R]

I have never had one of those CV bolts come loose, nor have I ever used loctite on them. But I use a long ratchet and do it carefully, very tight, by hand, with no torque wrench. Like everyone I should be more diligent and use loctite and a TW, but I'm old enough to have experienced a lot of tightening bolts with and without a TW. So do as a I say, not as I do; I suggest a drop of blue loctite on those 8mm bolts. Over decades you learn how to tighten most any bolt by feel, the bolt size and strength determines the proper torque needed. Very small bolts are harder to tighten without a TW, too much will tear the head right off.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Also my sport has a major angle on the front of the shaft as well. I assume that is for when the vehicle is towing (squatting) and the rear driveline has so much more load and needs a linear driveline. I think the angle is ok. I also daily it into bottem out dirt holes. Climb fallen trees. And even let my girl wheel it and have bellied out on dirt after a little air. These t case brackets are bullet proof from my experience. I don’t think anything is bent myself. My money is on four wheel locked up. Do the tires squeal on a hot day when doing circles in a parking lot???

Your driveshaft angle will NOT change with suspension movement. Period.

 

[BenDT]

Your driveshaft angle will NOT change with suspension movement. Period.

Yes it does buddy. Lol. As the axle gets closer to the body the driveline is more direct. Look up any video explaining loading and driveline angle. Think about it. If the back of vehicle is close to road and the front is the same then the angle has changed as well as length. Huge issue with pickups. This a main reason over sprung lifts make trucks towing capacity much lower. A straight u joint can handle way more torque than a joint at even 10 degrees. I’ve heard (not sure of truth) ever degree of angle multiple torque required by 1.15. Adds up fast.

 

[RoyKelly2]

They backed out because the shaft was garbage and had too much vibration. You should be able to clip the oetiker clamp off and pull the entire CV off the shaft

This last shaft came from the dealer....

 

[Mbrooks420]

This last shaft came from the dealer....

Yes I understand. You got a bad one. It happens.

 

[RoyKelly2]

Yes it does buddy. Lol. As the axle gets closer to the body the driveline is more direct. Look up any video explaining loading and driveline angle. Think about it. If the back of vehicle is close to road and the front is the same then the angle has changed as well as length. Huge issue with pickups. This a main reason over sprung lifts make trucks towing capacity much lower. A straight u joint can handle way more torque than a joint at even 10 degrees. I’ve heard (not sure of truth) ever degree of angle multiple torque required by 1.15. Adds up fast.

Not on mine.... The front driveshaft goes from the transfer case to the front differential. The front differential is fixed solidly to the frame with two lugs and one arm. The CV axles handle the change in angle to get the power to the tires. This picture may help you visualize it.

What you posted is true for the rear axle

 

[Mbrooks420]

Yes it does buddy. Lol. As the axle gets closer to the body the driveline is more direct. Look up any video explaining loading and driveline angle. Think about it. If the back of vehicle is close to road and the front is the same then the angle has changed as well as length. Huge issue with pickups. This a main reason over sprung lifts make trucks towing capacity much lower. A straight u joint can handle way more torque than a joint at even 10 degrees. I’ve heard (not sure of truth) ever degree of angle multiple torque required by 1.15. Adds up fast.

No. Your Front driveshaft angle DOES ABSOLUTELY NOT CHANGE. Ever. The differential NEVER MOVES AS IT IS BOLTED TO THE FRAME. What you say is true of YOUR REAR DRIVESHAFT since that differential ACTUALLY moves with the suspension.

You think about it.

 

[BenDT]

No. Your Front driveshaft angle DOES ABSOLUTELY NOT CHANGE. Ever. The differential NEVER MOVES AS IT IS BOLTED TO THE FRAME. What you say is true of YOUR REAR DRIVESHAFT since that differential ACTUALLY moves with the suspension.

You think about it.

And what you should do is probably read what I’m saying I’m saying that the transfer case is at an angle because the rear driveshaft needs to be in line so what I’m saying is true in both regards

 

[Mbrooks420]

And what you should do is probably read what I’m saying I’m saying that the transfer case is at an angle because the rear driveshaft needs to be in line so what I’m saying is true in both regards

You’re wrong. The transfer case doesn’t tilt.