Not bearing or brakes. Front end squeak. Right turn only.

[Mbrooks420]

The rear driveshaft is never in line. That’s the point of the u-joints and slip joint.

 

[BenDT]

And what you should do is probably read what I’m saying I’m saying that the transfer case is at an angle because the rear driveshaft needs to be in line so what I’m saying is true in both regards

Oh and that is exactly why Ford used a CV joint on the front

You’re wrong. The transfer case doesn’t tilt.

yes it does bunk. Or they would have a u joint there. There is an angle. That’s what this other dude is saying. It’s not bc it’s bent. It’s bc that is what it does. The cv joint handles angles much better and smoother. A double cardigan u joint set up would be needed to maintain low torque and no driveline issue (vibes). You seem mad dude. What I’m telling you is fact. I understand your point you are making and what has you hung up. If it’s not the actual t case then it’s simply the angle from the case to the pumkin. However. I lowered trans ( at t case) and put a motor in mine not 5k ago. And I’m 99.99% percent sure that there is angle there. Much like most vehicles.

 

[RoyKelly2]

Have you tried installing the shaft at 180 degrees. I believe these are balanced to fit one way. I could be wrong about that. I remember something about this shaft and orientation that was important. I had a jeep with double cv drive shaft. The pinion side kept getting eaten alive. It was the bearings into the unit. It was allowing the unit to bounce around when on highway and that ate them alive about as fast as you are saying. Just a thought? Is your four wheel engaged and not releasing. Front driveline on pavement would eat a cv fast as well

Ben, AWD....I have tried in every position that the six bolts on one end and the u-Joint on the otrher will allow with no change. The Transfer case has been rebuilt with new bearings and chain - Stopped the clunk but made it easier to hear twhen the bolt backs out. At 22 Ft Pounds and red Loctite, these should stay. but they don't. I'm ready to take the 12 new bolts I just got from Ford and put them in my drill press to make holes for 0.32 safety wire and safety wire them in place

 

[Mbrooks420]

Wrong again. The CV joint is used strictly BECAUSE it works better, with less vibration and harmonics than a u joint. The front driveshaft angle doesn’t change with the suspension. It can’t.

I’m not mad. I’m right.

 

[Mbrooks420]

If the front diff EVER moved there’d need to be a slip joint in the driveshaft. It’s a fixed shaft attached to a fixed differential and fixed transfer case.

 

[RoyKelly2]

Wrong again. The CV joint is used strictly BECAUSE it works better, with less vibration and harmonics than a u joint. The front driveshaft angle doesn’t change with the suspension. It can’t.

I’m not mad. I’m right.

This may help.... Here is a picture of the parts that move up and down

This is of an F-150 , but mine is similar

 

[BenDT]

Wrong again. The CV joint is used strictly BECAUSE it works better, with less vibration and harmonics than a u joint. The front driveshaft angle doesn’t change with the suspension. It can’t.

I’m not mad. I’m right.

I agree with front suspension. I’m right angry fellow. You need some learning. I won’t be the one to educate you any further. Cant fix ..... well. Thanks for the assistance but technically this thread isn’t even about that. So please stay on topic. As to the guy talking about the cv it’s actually on topic so we should probably all continue there.

Ben, AWD....I have tried in every position that the six bolts on one end and the u-Joint on the otrher will allow with no change. The Transfer case has been rebuilt with new bearings and chain - Stopped the clunk but made it easier to hear twhen the bolt backs out. At 22 Ft Pounds and red Loctite, these should stay. but they don't. I'm ready to take the 12 new bolts I just got from Ford and put them in my drill press to make holes for 0.32 safety wire and safety wire them in place

You always could try to take vise grips and also distort the threads. I’d use loctite as well. Oil based paint.... if ur state allows it, is actually the original loctite. Chrysler used oil based paint with all assembly especially with the turbine vehicles they created. Old bike mechanics still use it. Especially is better when dealing with a pot metal and I believe that is why it’s better with bikes. Also not saying you did it, but if a bolt is torqued too much they do stretch and will not hold properly unless designed to stretch like a tty bolt.

 

[CDW6212R]

Oh and that is exactly why Ford used a CV joint on the front

yes it does bunk. Or they would have a u joint there. There is an angle. That’s what this other dude is saying. It’s not bc it’s bent. It’s bc that is what it does. The cv joint handles angles much better and smoother. A double cardigan u joint set up would be needed to maintain low torque and no driveline issue (vibes). You seem mad dude. What I’m telling you is fact. I understand your point you are making and what has you hung up. If it’s not the actual t case then it’s simply the angle from the case to the pumkin. However. I lowered trans ( at t case) and put a motor in mine not 5k ago. And I’m 99.99% percent sure that there is angle there. Much like most vehicles.

@Mbrooks420 is correct, the front driveshaft does not articulate at all. You might ought to climb under your truck and look at both ends of the front driveshaft. The front end of it is fixed onto the diff, which is bolted to the frame, fixed. The rear where the CV is, bolts to the transfer case, which is also bolted to the frame, by the trans mount. There is negligible movement due to the rubber of the engine and trans mounts, or the rubber of the front differential mounts.

The purpose of the CV joint is to smooth the harmonics, because u-joints cannot, there. Pinion angles are crucial for the u-joints of the rear shaft, and those must match front to back; the output shaft of the trans/TC has to be inline with the pinion angle of the rear diff.

CV joints don't have that limitation. The front pinion angle is notably different than the TC output shaft angle. To use u-joints there would require the TC output shaft or front diff, to be rotated to match each other closely. Instead of doing that, Ford installed a CV joint in the front shaft, which can handle that angle far better than a u-joint can.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I agree with front suspension. I’m right angry fellow. You need some learning. I won’t be the one to educate you any further. Cant fix ..... well. Thanks for the assistance but technically this thread isn’t even about that. So please stay on topic. As to the guy talking about the cv it’s actually on topic so we should probably all continue there.

You always could try to take vise grips and also distort the threads. I’d use loctite as well. Oil based paint.... if ur state allows it, is actually the original loctite. Chrysler used oil based paint with all assembly especially with the turbine vehicles they created. Old bike mechanics still use it. Especially is better when dealing with a pot metal and I believe that is why it’s better with bikes. Also not saying you did it, but if a bolt is torqued too much they do stretch and will not hold properly unless designed to stretch like a tty bolt.

No, what you need is some basic engineering knowledge or basic geometry. Insinuate I’m stupid? That’s rich.

About the only correct thing you’ve said is that you won’t educate me.

You’re wrong, plain and simple. Quit putting garbage incorrect information on the forum.

Distort the threads with vice grips? What are you, the mangler? Might as well drive some SAE bolts in there.

No wonder you can’t fix your truck.

 

[BenDT]

This may help.... Here is a picture of the parts that move up and down View attachment 331118

This is of an F-150 , but mine is similar View attachment 331119

@Mbrooks420 is correct, the front driveshaft does not articulate at all. You might ought to climb under your truck and look at both ends of the front driveshaft. The front end of it is fixed onto the diff, which is bolted to the frame, fixed. The rear where the CV is, bolts to the transfer case, which is also bolted to the frame, by the trans mount. There is negligible movement due to the rubber of the engine and trans mounts, or the rubber of the front differential mounts.

The purpose of the CV joint is to smooth the harmonics, because u-joints cannot, there. Pinion angles are crucial for the u-joints of the rear shaft, and those must match front to back; the output shaft of the trans/TC has to be inline with the pinion angle of the rear diff.

CV joints don't have that limitation. The front pinion angle is notably different than the TC output shaft angle. To use u-joints there would require the TC output shaft or front diff, to be rotated to match each other closely. Instead of doing that, Ford installed a CV joint in the front shaft, which can handle that angle far better than a u-joint can.

I already stated this I agree with. That is correct. I never stayed opposite

 

[BenDT]

No, what you need is some basic engineering knowledge or basic geometry. Insinuate I’m stupid? That’s rich.

About the only correct thing you’ve said is that you won’t educate me.

You’re wrong, plain and simple. Quit putting garbage incorrect information on the forum.

Distort the threads with vice grips? What are you, the mangler? Might as well drive some SAE bolts in there.

No wonder you can’t fix your truck.

You sir are literally brain dead. Learn to read hillbilly. The other guy was misreading that’s fine. You on the other hand I already said re read. I never once stated that was happening you in your anger and “intelligence” assumed something and should learn to admit if you’re wrong. Hush boy. I’d learn you in two ways I’m sure of it. I guarantee I’ve rebuild more **** that you have touched. You really out to go internet troll. Maybe learn... first to read.

 

[BenDT]

@Mbrooks420 is correct, the front driveshaft does not articulate at all. You might ought to climb under your truck and look at both ends of the front driveshaft. The front end of it is fixed onto the diff, which is bolted to the frame, fixed. The rear where the CV is, bolts to the transfer case, which is also bolted to the frame, by the trans mount. There is negligible movement due to the rubber of the engine and trans mounts, or the rubber of the front differential mounts.

The purpose of the CV joint is to smooth the harmonics, because u-joints cannot, there. Pinion angles are crucial for the u-joints of the rear shaft, and those must match front to back; the output shaft of the trans/TC has to be inline with the pinion angle of the rear diff.

CV joints don't have that limitation. The front pinion angle is notably different than the TC output shaft angle. To use u-joints there would require the TC output shaft or front diff, to be rotated to match each other closely. Instead of doing that, Ford installed a CV joint in the front shaft, which can handle that angle far better than a u-joint can.

I literally have said what you just did in my previous posts. I never stated what the hillbilly is trying to finger paint. He’s probably just drunk and angry his wife plays with other guys pipe wrenches. In fact I believe everything you said is in my post since I reread it.

 

[Mbrooks420]

You sir are literally brain dead. Learn to read hillbilly. The other guy was misreading that’s fine. You on the other hand I already said re read. I never once stated that was happening you in your anger and “intelligence” assumed something and should learn to admit if you’re wrong. Hush boy. I’d learn you in two ways I’m sure of it. I guarantee I’ve rebuild more **** that you have touched. You really out to go internet troll. Maybe learn... first to read.

I’m brain dead, and you’re so skilled but you can’t even fix your current basic issue.

Been driving Ranger based vehicles since I was 15, and have yet to have an issue I can’t fix, including several driveshafts in my actual AWD vehicle. Not some automatic 4wd that I think is AWD because I don’t know no better.

Seems like you really know your stuff, doesn’t it? Maybe fix your issue then come brag about good you are.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Also my sport has a major angle on the front of the shaft as well. I assume that is for when the vehicle is towing (squatting) and the rear driveline has so much more load and needs a linear driveline. I think the angle is ok. I also daily it into bottem out dirt holes. Climb fallen trees. And even let my girl wheel it and have bellied out on dirt after a little air. These t case brackets are bullet proof from my experience. I don’t think anything is bent myself. My money is on four wheel locked up. Do the tires squeal on a hot day when doing circles in a parking lot???

Just to be crystal clear we were all talking about the front driveshaft extreme angle which you assume has to do with the rear squatting.

This is absolutely wrong. No ifs ands or buts. Squat the rear until the tires blow out and that front shaft angle will not change.

 

[RoyKelly2]

My money is on four wheel locked up. Do the tires squeal on a hot day when doing circles in a parking lot???

BenDT, i think you are not understanding.... mine is not 4WD with a switch, it is ALL WHEEL DRIVE, all four wheels are driven all the time, so the four wheel drive is not locked up. I can make the tires squeal anytime I want with the right tires on it, but at the price of rubber, I'd rather not.

 

[Mbrooks420]

There’s also no transfer case “bracket”. Transfer case bolts to the transmission, and the driveshafts, nothing else. There’s a non-supporting crossmember UNDER, but it’s not structural to the t-case.

But, why start being right now.

 

[RoyKelly2]

Just to be crystal clear we were all talking about the front driveshaft extreme angle which you assume has to do with the rear squatting.

This is absolutely wrong. No ifs ands or buts. Squat the rear until the tires blow out and that front shaft angle will not change.

I agree

 

[BenDT]

I’m brain dead, and you’re so skilled but you can’t even fix your current basic issue.

Been driving Ranger based vehicles since I was 15, and have yet to have an issue I can’t fix, including several driveshafts in my actual AWD vehicle. Not some automatic 4wd that I think is AWD because I don’t know no better.

Seems like you really know your stuff, doesn’t it? Maybe fix your issue then come brag about good you are

I agree

you are both misreading everything I have said. The case is at an angle bc of the bracket which had been referred to as the case bracket so to not cause confusion I referred to it as so. Yes no front movement. I said that. I said the front had extreme angle this the cv. You can’t read. Too caught up being a hillbilly. So to agree that the front angle has nothing to do with the rear you have just stated that you don’t agree with your own previous posts. Stop brown nosing. And yes the 4 whee on demand is sold as a awd case. So you are actually wrong. Ask a dealer. But yes the front shaft angle doesn’t change. NEVER SAID IT DID STUPID. And about fixing my truck. I probably have more hours off road than you do in a ranger. I run this hard as a Baja vehicle. My truck runs like a top. This entire thread was about a squeak that comes and goes and is hard to find. I asked for any knowledgeable people or any experienced person to help. Someone did. They stated front cv joint only squeaked on way. Been fixing other actual issues first before pulling a good part to look for a squeak. Because this 23 year old vehicle does have issues show face especially after being door deep in mud or hitting whoopdeedoos at 6k when it’s 100 outside. I’d say go brag to your wife about how you can’t read well, but I’m sure she left if you ever tricked one into staying. Mad. wrong. And stupid. Lmao. Seriously you should learn to read. I tried being cool and make you feel “right” about the awd. But yea the people who make it call it an awd case so guess what. It is then. Have fun thinking you know more than the engineers because we all know THEY CAN READ.

BenDT, i think you are not understanding.... mine is not 4WD with a switch, it is ALL WHEEL DRIVE, all four wheels are driven all the time, so the four wheel drive is not locked up. I can make the tires squeal anytime I want with the right tires on it, but at the price of rubber, I'd rather not.

I would recommend distorting the threads if they keep backing out. Ford does this with many bolts. Mainly engine and stud bolts. I would go ahead then and do a service on the case. If the front has zero slack it will eat tires. Had this with the jeep when the viscous clutch went out. Even awd cars need slip for the front axle under load. Or you would eat tires in 10k miles.

 

[Mbrooks420]

You clearly said it “tilts”. Maybe if your such a smart guy you need to learn to write your little thoughts out better. Everything I said is spelled out very clearly.

Oh, and you wanna call me stupid, and a bunch of other names, and then try and be nice and call a truce in a PM?

Yeah, I don’t think so. I’ll tell you where exactly you can go, and what you can do to yourself when you get there.

Keep throwing parts at something you’re too stupid to fix. You MUST be a dealer mechanic.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Oh, and if bolts are shaking loose with loctite your STUPID idea of deforming the threads isn’t going to help.

Keep bragging about your amazing skill, when you can even make a post right.