Not Sure if Correct Forum - "SAS"

Alright, gentlemen. This will be an information thread for now and potentially a build/SAS thread of sorts. Firstly, I will post the find I made today while taking a walk:

First of all, for those of you who have done an solid axle swap - how practical is it? How does it affect the ride? Does Ford "on the fly" 4x4 work with a solid front axle from a Jeep? Is fabrication required? Is there a bolt on kit of any kind? Would such an undertaking be worth my time?

I have never been a fan of the current front suspension and steering system, and a solid axle has always been of interest to me. But I'm curious as to how practical such a swap would be for a daily driver. Most likely I'd want to utilize coil suspension rather than the current (overly complicated) system. But obviously I have a lot of questions before I consider doing this.

 

[Randall]

First of all, for those of you who have done an solid axle swap - how practical is it?

Practicality is subjective, so I'm going to leave that one alone.

How does it affect the ride?

Your ride will definitely change. How much and in what way will depend on what type of suspension you go with.

Does Ford "on the fly" 4x4 work with a solid front axle from a Jeep?

Yes.

Is fabrication required?

Yes.

Is there a bolt on kit of any kind?

None that are worth your time.

Would such an undertaking be worth my time?

Again, subjective. What are your intended uses?

I have never been a fan of the current front suspension and steering system, and a solid axle has always been of interest to me. But I'm curious as to how practical such a swap would be for a daily driver.

A SAS will work for a daily driver if done correctly. I daily drove mine for about 8 years. Whether it was done correctly is subjective.

Most likely I'd want to utilize coil suspension rather than the current (overly complicated) system. But obviously I have a lot of questions before I consider doing this.

Start reading here: Explorer/Ranger Solid Axle Swap Registry

 

[GuardianSport]

Would the (I assume D44) from that Grand Wagoneer work for an Explorer SAS?

 

[Randall]

Any solid axle will work for a solid axle swap. Some require more fabrication than others. That Wagoneer axle is set up for leaves, I believe. Since you want to run coils that will require a little extra work. It can certainly be done though. Also, make sure it is a driver side pumpkin, or you will need to change transfer cases. I can't remember off hand which way Wagoneer pumpkins drop.

 

[GuardianSport]

It is for sure on the driver's side. This seems to be the most popular SAS front axle for Explorers. I have a few other questions, that I will reserve for later.

The fact that the "on the fly" system works with it has drastically piqued my interests. I essentially want to do a mild build, cut the axle to stock length, front ABS (if possible), etc. I've read that I will require "radius arms?" Anyone have some links to these babies so I can start pricing early?

 

[Randall]

As far as I know, the 'On the Fly' system is related solely to the transfer case. If you are keeping that, then that aspect will still exists. However, your stock axle has automatic hubs. If you truly desire to shift into 4x4 from inside the vehicle, you'll have to run drive slugs on the d44, which will effect it's street temperaments.

As far as the wagoneer axle being the most popular, I had thought that distinction belonged to Bronco axles, as they are already set up for radius arms and coils (and they are Ford).

You only 'require' radius arms if you are going to run a radius arm style setup. There are many ways to set up a solid axle swap.

Here is a link to my radius arm setup: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64709

 

[GuardianSport]

Yes, I've been doing some reading. Radius arms are required for coils, I believe.

And my thoughts on the Wagoneer axle being ideal came from about 4 or 5 SAS threads I perused.

When you say "automatic hubs" you're referring to my ABS sensor equipped wheel hub bearings?

 

[Randall]

I guess I should ask what year truck you have - didn't see it in the post. Coils do not require radius arms. You could do links.

Is the Wagoneer axle low pinion, or high? I had thought them low.

 

[GuardianSport]

Now you have me at a loss. Having read some of the threads regarding SAS, I also believe the axle to have a low pinion.

I drive a 2000 Sport with the ABS equipped wheel hubs. Is there any way to make the solid Wagoneer axle ABS?

What would be a better set up for a mainly everyday drive? Radius arms or links? Me thinks links.

 

[GuardianSport]

It is possible to retrofit ABS into a solid front axle.

 

[MidnightRebel07]

You'll want to find a high pinion diff. Alot of people like waggy axles because their almost the same width as the Ex's and Sport Trac's. Older Bronco's are a great donor but more expensive and harder to find than waggy axles.

 

[GuardianSport]

Could somebody explain the benefit of a high pinion axle versus a low pinion axle?

 

[Randall]

A ring gear has a 'drive' side and a 'coast' side. The way that ring gears are traditionally used in rear axle applications is low pinion, where the pinion rotates against the drive side of the gear. When you move that same low pinion axle to the front of the vehicle, essentially rotating it around backwards, the pinion then rotates against the coast side of the gear, which it was not designed for. It is weaker in this direction. A high pinion axle fixes this problem by moving the pinion above the centerline, where it can then rotate against the drive side of the ring gear, where it is stronger. Also, a higher pinion is obviously farther front the ground, thus protecting your driveshaft that much more from obstacles.

 

[Elessar65]

A high pinion differential, simply, has the pinion yoke higher.

What this means, is that driveline angles are a lot better, and that it takes a reverse rotation gear set. Also, in a front axle a high pinion will be stronger than a low pinion (and the reverse is true for the rear), at least as far as the ring and pinion are concerned.

This is a Trail Gear Toy housing, not a D44, but as you can see, the pinion is higher than the axle shafts.

This is a LP D44 chunk, the pinion is lower than the axle shafts

Edit: Randall beat me to it.....

 

[Randall]

Edit: Randall beat me to it.....

Yeah, but yours had visual aids!

 

[Elessar65]

Yeah, but yours had visual aids!

True, lol.

The strength difference between a LP and a HP front axle is pretty much irrelevant for our uses. And if not what kind of monster are you building? The main benefit for a HP front is driveline angle. The less angle on your u-joints the better.

 

[GuardianSport]

The strength difference between a LP and a HP front axle is pretty much irrelevant for our uses. And if not what kind of monster are you building? The main benefit for a HP front is driveline angle. The less angle on your u-joints the better.

Thanks for the explanation.

Generally, this is going to be mainly a daily driver, with a solid front axle, and a mild lift. I will occasionally take it off road (like I do now, currently), but this will not be a dedicated trail rig.