OBX Header Install complete - only issue needing help on | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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OBX Header Install complete - only issue needing help on

Maybe get some header wrap and wrap just the area around the plug wires and use heat socks ?
 



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You need a crimper. Without it, you will have problems. With a crimper, its reasonably easy.

With all the screwing around I have been doing, I still manage to ruin the odd wire when removing the boot. The metal clip inside the ceramic boot pulled out on a couple, ruining the whole wire. Just a warning.

In the thread posted above, the 135 degree boots (The 9002c wires) and the 90 degree boots (9001c) were mixed. With my TW170 heads, no 90 degree boot wires worked. The head or the header would be in the way. Maybe with different heads a few of the 90 degree boots work better, I don't know.
 












i just changed mine using the same wires as dono has. i have had motorcraft wires for the longest time, but couldnt use them because where i have the coils mounted. i then tried morroso blue max. i went threw 2 sets in 2 years (the last set didnt have many miles on them, but #3 melted to the core with boot protectors on, and #4 crumbled in my hand when i went to flex it. the heat also melted 2 heater boxes within 2 months as well). the the other nice thing about the accels is you can grip them better as well when pushing them in, or taking them off. dons heads are different then mine. he's #8 wire is really hard to get at where mine are fairly easy. both of us have TFS heads, but different part number
 






Vroom, wanted to thank you for recommending the remflex gaskets and the 1 inch bolts and supplying their respective links. I see why you recommended that gasket. I just installed my OBX clones as well and I can see where they help out a lot. On my first test drive I expected smoke from the headers, which I got. What I didn't expect was to see a tiny burning ember ( think 1/4 of cigarette tip) in the heat matting on the firewall.

I drove it 3 miles then parked to let it cool off while keeping an eye on things. I popped the hood I could actually see smoke billowing ( consistent with about 3 cigarettes worth) from just behind the driver side header coming up by the brake booster. That was the first time I ever considered carrying some sort of fire extinguisher. This brings me to the question; is the engine bay firewall heat matting actually flammable?

I let it cool of for about ten minutes, then turned the truck back on to idle for another 15 minutes waiting to see if it would start smoking like that again and it did not. I also remembered leaving the part sticker residue on booth headers knowing it would burn off. The headers appear to be touching the firewall matting, if not maybe a 16th" away. Wondering if I should remove that section and replace it with something more effective, or just leave it as is after it has already "burned in".

Thoughts?

ps- Oh ya, my brake booster clearance is no where near close. I think I have some several inches. It is odd that the op's would be that close if they are the same application. I would think worn mounts would leave the gap even bigger but I am only a shade tree mechanic.


**Just drove 25 miles with now smoke or problems. That is good. Played with her a little on the way back too. I really like the change.
 






Follow up on this. Motor mounts were replaced but with extra power this header pipe now was vibrating all the time. Modified the brake booster and will see how that goes. 🤷‍♂️

E98CE39D-99BA-4CDF-AE00-EC2A73B97611.jpeg
 






My kind of modification
Sometimes it just needs a massage
Just a thought
Maybe put some heat protection on that brake booster
Or wrap the pipes
Just spit balling here
:usa:
 






My kind of modification
Sometimes it just needs a massage
Just a thought
Maybe put some heat protection on that brake booster
Or wrap the pipes
Just spit balling here
:usa:
Yes, definitely needed a massage. From what I can determine, my OBX headers were an earlier made set before they worked out the kinks of their design. Hence this one pipe being much too close to the BB. I've seen later made OBX headers without this problem. But I do not rule out it was a quality control issue on their part either.

I'll talk about the heat protection and perhaps that might be something to do. Thanks for the input!
 












I run taylor 8.8 wires, work great with the 5.0 and careful routing around the headers. I take my wires to the fender skirt instead of along the valve cover.

You should check your transmission mount, the factory mount SUCKS and will allow lots of movement, replace the engine mounts and no mention of the trans mount? I would replace that sucker ASAP

Remflex gaskets are a must with headers on this 302

You can run a smaller booster if needed.... I have used 8" and 9" boosters from a Mustang II on these explorers/rangers to gain more clearance, they have the same boost ability, bolt on, and are much smaller diameter
 






I run taylor 8.8 wires, work great with the 5.0 and careful routing around the headers. I take my wires to the fender skirt instead of along the valve cover.

You should check your transmission mount, the factory mount SUCKS and will allow lots of movement, replace the engine mounts and no mention of the trans mount? I would replace that sucker ASAP

Remflex gaskets are a must with headers on this 302

You can run a smaller booster if needed.... I have used 8" and 9" boosters from a Mustang II on these explorers/rangers to gain more clearance, they have the same boost ability, bolt on, and are much smaller diameter
We changed the motor mounts and tranny mount.

The massaging of the booster seems to have provided enough clearance so fingers crossed no more issues during aggressive driving.

Yes did use the same gaskets with my headers.

Thanks for the info about alternative boosters!
 






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