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ohv cam window

smegun

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1994 ford explorer xlt
im here at TDC and my cam syncroniser window is here ….am I in the right position to put on my top end ???
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… never touched the syncro but I did do a tensioner job that may have moved the syncro out or the owner before never had it timed right …..pain to get to a slat of OSB or plywood paneling across your engine bay without the intake seem to get access … new head work done new rockers and lifters ready to test but having some firing problem

ohv-cam-syncro-sensor-window-157347
ohv-cam-syncro-sensor-window-157347


camface.jpg


4_0-synchro-4.jpg
 
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RustyMacintosh

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I rented then bought a pack of 4-5 plastic cups---from Autozone. I can't think of a better term. They are tools. One is for the 4.0 OHV that holds that cam sensor in place. You take that plate off with those two phillips screws, place this plastic holder down over the sensor. It holds it at TDC so you can finish off the rest of the heads, and it is timed right.

Make sense? 1 cup of coffee it is 5am
 
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smegun

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does it look like the sensor itself can be replaced on this window type..... I took pics with my phone at 0 TDC what does your window look like at tdc
 
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massacre

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When I installed my new cam synchro, I got the plastic cup tools from autozone but none of them would fit my unit for some reason.

So I ended up setting it up using tape and a multimeter. The Haynes manual has the procedure to do this IIRC.
Going from memory, you don’t set it up right at TDC, you cut a piece of masking tape 34mm long, install that to the left of the TDC mark, and then turn engine clockwise until the pointer is at the end of the tape.
Then install the synchronizer, making sure the edge of the round metal part inside matches up with the line on the window.
 
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FR-425

Used to be a road here.
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Centaurious

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Cam Syncro is for timing the injectors, has nothing to do with ignition. Ignition is the crank Sensor. If you have a belt squeal or chirp and pulling off all the belts won't stop it, it's the cam syncro. Pull the top plate or sensor and pour in a shot glass worth of motor oil, after letting it soak for 30+ minutes mop out any excess oil and replace cover or sensor. The top bushing gets dry.
 
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smegun

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anyone ever try just replacing the sensor in these window jobs ? ...kinda defeats purpose of a window doesn't it … I got sputter still after head alternator rockers lifters and pcm changes still the same sputter must be this contact or worse loose mechanics shaft copper contact area etc.... looking for the vain info or that arched lobe at TDC …. if I cant see the bugger during doesn't make sense … thank you I get the tutorial about the using the volt meter for accuracy don't know what there describing about the mark to end up with ...I assume this twists in just like the others and your fine tunning a little with the volt meter (15 teeth to line up )

camface.jpg


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this is my vane ity at TDC like it would foster the idea of a point of correctness but???
 
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smegun

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im stuck I got the retaining clamp and bolt out the synchro I can rotate left or right but I cant get it to rise out the hole ..

im trying at tdc and atdc


p.s
does the lower manifold have to be off looks tight regarding some tutorials want you to start perpendicular then the unit rotates as its going down hence setting the vane on the first MARK on the window before dropping but will it pass with the lower manifold on ???

excerpts:


Agreed, but just a note: You can't rely on the timing marks alone... You can be at TDC according to the marks, but actually be 360 degrees OFF TDC. You need to make sure you're on the compression stroke, either by visually seeing that the valves are closed, or by using you finger to feel the air being pushed out as CollisionTech mentioned.
 
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kirkallen143

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Just installed mine on a rebuild: the engine has to be on TDC to install the cam synchronizer and then you turn the engine to 26 degrees ATDC to time/align it. When installing at TDC you set the driver's side edge of the internal vane (best I can describe it) at the small notch/line in the window, not the long scribed line. From there, install your bolt and clamp, do not tighten. Once installed, then you turn the engine over to the 26 degrees ATDC (34mm over from TDC mark on balancer). Using a multimeter, you want to find the exact point where you get voltage when turning the CS. You have to back probe the electrical connector as it is hooked up to the CS (middle terminal), with the key on. Put the positive lead on the CS's terminal and negative lead to a good ground, find that spot and tighten it down.

Kirk
 
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smegun

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got it out and tested it didn't matter what position the vane was in I got 12 volts im looking for the sensor assembly to try out the back probe test the syncro feels in good shape
 
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