Oil Filter Brands -- FlowBack.

[Ramblinwilly]

I've done some research regarding oil filters and need a reality check for my 91 2.9 Ranger. It's in regard to "flow back" which my understanding helps to keep the oil in the upper end. Which filter brand?

1. My understanding is that not all filters help to prevent flow back. I was shown a brand filter that had a flow back gasket in side the filter and one that didn't have this. One brand had the more expensive filter with flow back gasket and the less expensive one did not. Doesn't look that purchasing a brand is the best method. How do I know for sure?

2. I've read the box on a number of filter brands paying attention to the particle size that they remove. I've heard many opinions. Some say that the more particles that are removed, the more chance that the filter will clog and prevent adequate oil flow. Any comment here would be greatly appreciated.

My oil pressure idiot light hasn't worked since I got the Ranger and will be replacing it soon. I check oil at every fill up. It's always clean and the level it should be. I change oil and replace filter twice a year in October and April. Might be too frequent but I'll err on the side of caution. I'm leaning towards by a Motorcraft filter and be done with it.

 

[csturner92]

K&N Filters have an anti-drainback feature.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...N-itue8Z8gcsg?itemIdentifier=161014_427815_0_

I've never really had a problem with filter media getting clogged up faster when it filters better. It makes sense that it would, but for something like that, it would take a long time for it to accumulate enough particles to restrict oil flow.

By then, you'll (hopefully) have replaced the oil filter anyway.

 

[swshawaii]

Motorcraft FL-820S construction should be similar to the FL1A.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3209991&postcount=1

 

[Vic_Ferrari2002]

We had this discussion at length in another forum I frequent. From that discussion I will only buy Wix filters from NAPA. For the money they have the best particulate removal media and have the back flow valve your referring to.

 

[Anime]

The "anti drain-back valve" on oil filters is a feature for vehicles where the oil filter is mounted sideways, or where the oil will drain out of the filter with the engine off. If the oil filter is installed with the opening facing upwards, the oil doesn't drain out of the filter, and so the anti-drainback valve feature isn't needed.

Most decent oil brands have the anti-drainback feature, you can tell by looking in the filter before you buy. Using Motorcraft filters is a good idea, as they are essentially Purolator PureONE filters in a Motorcraft shell, at a value price. You can also use the regular Purolator filters.

As for particle size and flow, that's something to consider based on engine RPM. A filter like the Purolator PureONE that claims to trap 99% of particles, and does so by having a tightly packed filter element, flows less oil than a regular Purolator oil filter that traps 96%. The 4.0L V6, a low RPM engine that is only made for 2500-3000 RPM, is fine with the lower flow of the PureONE, but a higher-revving 4-cylinder that goes to 4000-6000 RPM and beyond will probably risk oil starvation at those higher RPMS from a lower-flowing filter, especially once it's been in service for a few thousand miles. So, it's often best to get a slightly lower efficiency filter for those engines that see higher RPM use.

You should change oil about every 5000-6000 miles if using regular motor oil, or longer if using synthetic. However, if the vehicle sees frequent use but low mileage, then it is better to change it on a schedule.

 

[natenkiki2004]

Anime summed it up pretty well so I won't touch on the main subject, just on a somewhat relevant one;

The first oil change I did in mine was with a NAPA Gold filter because I knew they were quality. Then I found out about the Motorcraft FL1A at Walmart for cheaper and that's all I've been buying. However, an "oil starvation" bug got into my head the other day so I spent a bunch of time researching the NAPA Platinum filters (Wix XP style, 15151XP for ours I think). From the various information online, Wix actually rates them as filtering less than the regular filters. This is because, while it's a better filtering media, it's meant for synthetic oil and 10-15K oil changes.

Obviously I want the best as a few bucks for a filter is nothing compared to engine wear. But I don't know that the synthetic fiber filters are the best way to go. There's a lot of good being said about the, believe it or not, FRAM synthetic filters. I might give them a go on the next change.

All the research and thinking I do, I keep coming back to the Motorcraft filters. It's what Ford recommends. It might not be the best out there but if the engineers dictate, it's gotta be pretty good.

 

[Roadrunner777]

The technology for making oil filters (and oil, for that matter) has improved greatly in the 20 years since these vehicles were produced, and the root design of the engine is far older than that. So, practically any filter that is structurally well built, and practically any oil on the shelf will do at least as well as the best available when the Explorer came out.

Of the dozen or so filters I researched, WIX/NAPA came in first for cost, quality, and availability. Every other major brand (other than Fram) are a very close second. It ends up coming down two issues:

There is a mechanism in the filter called a bypass spring, and it is really just a spring that allows the filter to shift back in the canister if the incoming oil pressure gets too high. You might get this happening at high engine speeds or just because of a clogged filter. When the filter shifts back, oil is allowed around it, by design. The bypass spring is either a leaf or coil spring. A coil spring should be more durable, and a failure here means the filter will no longer filter, just let the oil by.

The other issue is the flowback valve material, rubber or silicone. As noted, with a vertical filter, it doesn't matter, but a silicone valve is better here.

So, any major filter (other than Fram) should be fine. I have mixed feelings about store brands. NAPA is great, it's a WIX. On the other hand, I have seen a dissection of Orielly's Microguard and it was really terrible in every possible regard. I have nothing against Orielly's... I buy most everything there. But, never a Microguard filter.

I personally use something rather different, and it can be hard to find, but I have my reasons. I spent many years around factory manufacturing as a contractor to CAT. They used Baldwin filters almost exclusively, and some Donaldson. (these were for filtering hydraulic oil, but the idea is the same). If you flip the hood of a big rig, you will likely find Baldwin, Donaldson, Fleetguard, or WIX.

I use a Baldwin BT251. Now this filter (and there is a WIX equivalent if you like the idea) is 2 or 3 inches longer than a regular Explorer filter. This has a number of benefits. First, there is more filter area and should last longer. Second, there is more canister surface area, which improves oil cooling to some degree. Finally, it sticks down farther when installed (but still safely in the frame rails) and is a bit easier to reach and change. I have a big-rig center nearby and get them for less than $10. Naturally, I use a synthetic, Mobile-One Extended, which has an extra squirt of some good synthetic additive stuff, I don't recall the details.

But, that's just me, getting ready for another long winter. For a more normal person in a more normal place, a NAPA/WIX filter changed with a name-brand conventional oil twice a year should be well served.

Misc rambling, continue at your own risk!

Now, the bad news... well I have to write this to keep things in perspective. The conventional cartridge oil filter is a terrible compromise for the task at hand. Research shows that the most damaging particulate is smaller than even the best filter can touch. In fact, an oil filter that has been in use for a while works BETTER than a new filter because the tiny particulate has started to fill in the comparatively huge gaps between the media fibers. But, with that, you get loss of flow, which is even worse.

But, we have all used cartridge filters for years, so it's not such a bad compromise after all. When you start dealing with very expensive engines designed to run a million plus miles, you start seeing dual purpose filters, with a course and fine filter, or both functions in a single cartridge. It is not practical or cost effective to use those in a typical vehicles. But, with such filter systems, oil looks brand new after thousands of miles. Food for thought.

 

[Ramblinwilly]

Thanks to all. I have never been disappointed with replies to my posts on this site. A WIX filter, name brand oil and change twice a year. That sounds like a plan.

 

[Brian1]

Check out this article I helped out with: http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/engine/129-1202-oil-filter-comparison-fodder/

We dissected several new oil filters and compared them. As others have said the Wix filters from Napa were one of the best in our opinion.

I use Motorcraft filters on my Explorer but on other engines I generally use the filters from Napa.

 

[Ramblinwilly]

Thanks Brian1. If you are here, read Brian1's link. Excellent info. Oil filters demystified!

 

[natenkiki2004]

Check out this article I helped out with: http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/engine/129-1202-oil-filter-comparison-fodder/

We dissected several new oil filters and compared them. As others have said the Wix filters from Napa were one of the best in our opinion.

I use Motorcraft filters on my Explorer but on other engines I generally use the filters from Napa.

Interesting article (though difficult to get to the full size final graph). From that, it looks like the NAPA Gold is better than the Motorcraft (Purolator PureONE based) since it's got glass mixed with the cellulose, making it a, for lack of better term, semi-synthetic filter.