Only defrosters....Lightly

[LoquetusofBorg]

Yeah, The bay harness and the eatc unit came from ped5stang and he said it tested working from the same rig. The under dash wire harness came from a donor rig I bought, (98 explorer limited), and the gent I bought it from said all things worked before the timing chains went. How important is the ECU or as others would call it a PCM in the operation of the eatc? When I did the under dash wire swap I kept everything the same except gem mod because everything else had the same numbers on them. It has to be something I am over looking. I will sleep on it and see what I can come up with.
Thanks all.
Robert

 

[LoquetusofBorg]

Well...here you go! Remember when I checked the vacuum under the hood and I had great vacuum to the canister but When I hooked up the syringe to the line from the canister to the fire wall, I got nothing, it would not budge in any direction, and on the inside I took a vacuum pump/gage and checked all lines for vacuum and every line passed the all held for 10 seconds without so much a slight movement in any direction. Well the one line that's the hardest to get to is most likely the culprit. Turdle that line IS plugged or something because all the lines are fine but nothing is getting through to the eatc and that is the one I over looked, thinking it did not budge in any direction so it must be good. So what's entailed for me on that particular line? How much fun am I in for? Do I need to brush up on my vulgar vocabulary?
Robert

 

[Turdle]

Yeah, I thought so. Which line exactly is plugged? before or behind the firewall?

 

[LoquetusofBorg]

from the canister to fire wall line

 

[LoquetusofBorg]

as you stated in the first few lines of this tag

 

[Turdle]

the black line from cannister to firewall may have a plastic joining union that may have debris caught inside. It normally sits on the inner fender well, and might have been tire rubbed, or have gotten loose and touched the exhaust. If you have a salvage yard nearby you might be able to go get a different one. I hesistate to use rubber vacuum lines, as when hot they have been known to collapse under vacuum.

 

[LoquetusofBorg]

There is a T off the engine/canister line that goes to the power steering unit, (I think), and it was a solid line from canister to the fire wall, unless I simply did not see it, and on visual inspection it looks great but as I am learning quickly, looks are deceiving. I take it from what you said,(salvage yard), that I will not be able to buy new line for this? Do I have to take the liner off? or just a little at the fire wall end and reach my hand up there and remove then replace?

 

[koda2000]

There is a T off the engine/canister line that goes to the power steering unit, (I think), and it was a solid line from canister to the fire wall, unless I simply did not see it, and on visual inspection it looks great but as I am learning quickly, looks are deceiving. I take it from what you said,(salvage yard), that I will not be able to buy new line for this? Do I have to take the liner off? or just a little at the fire wall end and reach my hand up there and remove then replace?

Most auto parts stores sell replacement plastic vacuum line (bring an old piece with you as there are different diameters). Oh, and I don't think the other hose goes to the power steering system.

 

[LoquetusofBorg]

Have you ever had to replace that line between canister and fire wall?. I am hoping it is like the rest of the connections push on/off type of fitting.

 

[Turdle]

I've broken and or melted a few vacuum lines over the years.

If you can find the bad area, you can fix it with a sleeve of rubber tube that fits tight.

Stick a piece of wire into the cut end of the plastic line to keep it hollow, and melt the end with a lighter flame. This will make it ball up a bit. pull out the wire and the ball becomes a barb that will hold it tightly in the rubber repair sleeve-union. This will also work to make a barb which will hold a new plastic line in the rubber end connectors.

I think the vacuum line going toward the driver side is actually going over to the intake manifold, for the vacuum source.

 

[koda2000]

Have you ever had to replace that line between canister and fire wall?. I am hoping it is like the rest of the connections push on/off type of fitting.

No I haven't. If you need push-on ends the auto parts stores usually have an assortment of rubber connectors in the HELP section. To fix your existing line if it has a break/crack you can just buy a piece of rubber vac hose of the appropriate diameter and use it as a splice. That I have done before. I can't imagine what could be clogging the line, but it's pretty small and wouldn't take much. There may also be a vac check-valve on the line (they look like a tiny fuel filter like you might find on a lawn mower).

 

[LoquetusofBorg]

Thanks guys for the quick reply's. I am checking my work/service manual to see what is involved in this system. I left my vacuum canister out and stuffed it kind of down in front of the cruise control so that I have easy access to it for this repair. I also ran my hand along it to feel for any anomalies to no avail. I will disconnect a chunk of it and head for napa auto or travel a little further for auto zone or advance auto in the next town over. This will get done!
Robert

 

[LoquetusofBorg]

SOLVED! Hey guy thought I would update. Got under the dash and pulled out the vacuum line from the engine bay. Tied a shoe string to it so that I could pull it back through. Examined the black line as that was the culprit. It was melted and when my hand went across the melted part I did not even feel it, the line was completely collapsed but still kind of smooth on the outside. The tricky *******. Cut out the offending appendage of the line. I cut the line even on both ends, then put 4 different sizes of heat shrink over the tube, then ran a straighten out paper clip through the center of both pieces, (so they would stay inline with each other), then put the first layer of heat shrink on and heated it tight and did that process 3 more times stepping it up one size until flush with the collars. I am very sorry that the pictures are blurry but my camera is on it's way out.
First pic you can see the melted part by the difference in texture

 

[LoquetusofBorg]

The second picture is without the flash and nailed to the board with cable clamps.

 

[LoquetusofBorg]

Then the heat shrink total of 4 layers

 

[LoquetusofBorg]

Through it back together and it works flawlessly. Now I have only medium to low fan.
The never ending story..................................................
Thanks to all that chimed in, it was greatly appreciated.
Robert

 

[LoquetusofBorg]

Off too check the relays, the wonderful relays of Ford................ chime it to the wizard of oz

 

[koda2000]

Glad you finally found your vacuum problem.

When you converted your system from amnual to automatic HVAC, did you replace the manual blower motor ballast resustor with the EATC blower motor module?

 

[CDW6212R]

Keep at it, small steps get it done. It's easier to fix a vehicle that is running for the most part.

 

[LoquetusofBorg]

Glad you finally found your vacuum problem.

When you converted your system from amnual to automatic HVAC, did you replace the manual blower motor ballast resustor with the EATC blower motor module?

Yes. Had to do some modifications to the blower box but she is in there.