98EdBomber
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- January 5, 2011
- Messages
- 204
- Reaction score
- 5
- City, State
- Las Vegas, NV
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 98 E.Bauer 4.0(RWD)
THe idle screw shouldn't be touched on EEC-V cars(96+). The service manuals are adamant about that. Even newer EEC-IV says to leave that screw alone. The IAC is a closed feedback system that adjusts airflow and idle speed. If you are idling too fast something else is amiss in the system.
I've seen that screw set procedure as stated for older CFI cars without IACs.
Ok. I had a looksy and the stop screw is not pushing on the plate. Anyhow, I tested the TPS and with key on engine off the voltage is about 1v and smoothly increases to about 5v at WOT. Within spec so i think my tps is good.
Besides that my CEL came on today!
IAC VALVE shorting...LOL
Out of curiosity I tested the resistance and from pin to pin spec is like 6-13. I got a big fat 0. From pin to IAC case i also got a big fat 0 and the spec on this is 10K ohms or greater. Must be fried or else I did not set my multimeter correctly. I believe if you want to test for ohms in the range of 6-13 you would set it at 200? Meaning there should not be a decimal if the value does not exceed 200. But to get infinite from pin to pin and pin to case and still have an idle is interesting.
Harness voltage coming from pcm is present and within spec. 11.3v or something. New one should be here in a few days. Hopefully this will do the trick.
I think the only part that baffles me is that by presuming the IAC is not functioning at all, the engine still idles. But when I disconnect the connector the engine stalls.
Can the IAC have a short but still be partially working?