How to: - Overhead console display fix - 2nd Gen | Page 10 | Ford Explorer Forums

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How to: Overhead console display fix - 2nd Gen

Prefix for threads which are instructional.
4yrs-3mo later its still valuable info

Thank you for the research and the work to post this info here. Worked like a charm on our 2000 Explorer XLT (no sunroof). In fact it motivated my buddy to tackle his in a Toyota Tacoma... the circuit board was identical. Soldered them both up today and we're both back in business. Never would have tried it had it not been for your posting.

Thanks again
Mike
 



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rockyfly

Thanks for the analysis, but I think mine is completely dead. The lights work and the unit has power, but I could not find any broken solder joints. Also, it doesn't come on/fade out, just usually dead with the mode button having no effect. Every so often the display will light up with all its characters illuminated, like it is doing a self test, then it will go out again. The part number on the compass/temp unit is F37F-19A548-AC. My Explorer is a '95 XLT 4WD 4dr w/o sunroof. Any idea where I might get a replacement part?
 






could this also be the problem with my temp. reading? It says -40 all the time.
 






sweet! i'll be trying this in the near future!
 






Ok so I have a 94 Ford Bronco with the same overhead console problem. I think I have narrowed down the problem area, but I need some advice.

as you can see here, this is just like the module that dvldoc has. I have the same problem I think as he did. What do yall think?

wp_000210.jpg


wp_000213.jpg


1.) Do I need to replace that 120 micro fared capacitor? Something obviously is leaking. Looks like the 2 161 resistors got really hot.
2.) So I should try resoldering the 2 resistors first then try it and see if it works? Then go for replacing the capacitor?

3.) Do I need to get that black stuff off the board?
 






First Attempt failed. R161 next to the capacitor came off. Im trying to get it back on but im not having much luck. Im gonna keep at it though.
When I had that resistor kinda on, I got red lines thru the display but no numbers. Dunno if it was connected or not though. Still dont know if that 120 mf capacitor is any good or not, they didnt have anything close at radio shack of course. Might go hit the junk yards and see if i can find an explorer console.
 






Well its just too far gone, I cant get it to stick to the board and its getting melted. Guess its time to pony up $30 for one off Ebay. Oh well, it was worth a shot.
 












I didn't think I would miss the display on my 98AWD, but after a few days I started looking for a fix on this forum. This one worked perfectly. Great instructions.
Thanks, Thallarsen
 






I found this site and this thread. I was able to complete this in about 45 minutes from start to finish. Thank you very much for posting this! Worked like a charm.

those '510' units were already loose once I touched them with the iron and solder...it was pretty clear these were at least part of the problem. soldered them up, plugged it in, voila!

now I'm looking for more things to fix...next up is the radio display.

cheers,
Dan
 






Looks like I need to steal a replacement board out of someones truck. My display quit again and when I opened it up, discovered the display had an burn spot on one edge of the glass about 1/2" in diameter.
 






can you please e mail me the pics you took on how to repair the overhead compass, especially on the removal. I don't show any pics on your directions how to post. Thank you Have a 2001 explorer and yes my compass stopped working
 






Thanks so much. Worked perfect on my 2001 Eddie Bauer. I couldn't figure out how to disconnect Connector 1, the sunroof switch, so I just removed the two screws. The console was then free of the wiring. When reinstalling the console there is a plastic tab on the Connector 1 switch which pokes into a slot to make sure it is installed correctly.
 






Can anyone tell me what I can do if one of the 510 resisters are gone. I read on one post where someone got a 64 OHM, 1/4 watt resistor from radio shack. Anyone else have one missing and what did you do Thanks
 






lotsa WIN in this thread. i also had a dead display. popped it out and sure enough BOTH of the 510 resistors had 1 side completely lifted of the pad.

i fixed mine, but i replaced the surface-mount resistors with 3Watt, 50Ohm through-hole resistors i have here at work. i am an Electronics Tech by trade in the Aerospace industry so i know my way around a PWB. with that said, i will HIGHLY recommend that if your resistors have worked themselves free of the solder joint from temperature cycle fatigue - REPLACE them. SMT resistors, even 1210 size SMT parts, were never really intended to dissipate alot of power (> 1/2watt...). chances are even though you reflowed the solder and added some more, the integrity of the resistor and it's pads have a high probability of being compromised. it WILL happen again, just a matter of time. but this time the resistor itself will be shot, not the sloder joint. i would recommend to look for an axial leaded part with a rating of 1/2Watt or higher. i used 3Watt components so i never have to worry about it again. also, i don't know if had been answered in previous pages but i'll put it here anyways - they are 50Ohm resistors in parallel with each other. so if you take an Ohm meter and read them in-circuit you will read ~25Ohms since 2 of the same value in parallel will read half the value of 1 resistor:
R = (R1XR2)/(R1+R2)
R = 2500/100
R = 25Ohms

OR more simply put, if you have resistors of the same value in parallel then take the value of 1 resistors and divide by the # of R's in parallel:
R = 50/2
R = 25Ohms


anyways, i replaced the R's and plugged it back in and she works like a champ now. and IMHO this thread should really be stickified since it seems to have helped quite a few peeps, myself included. but had it not been bumped to the top it wouldn't have caught my attention.
 






I Have no idea what you just said LOL No disrespect, I am sure you meant well, but does that mean I can use this 64 OHM, 1/4 watt resistor from Radio Shack that someone mention I could use. Thank you
 






Or even provide some numbers of a resistor we can buy out in town (Radio Shack) or on line. I'm guessing that resoldering mine 3 times is why it's dead.
 






No clue why it never was Stickied....
 






THANKS for this solution. I've kinda suspected this was an easy fix. Now, after several years, I might make my wife happy (she always needs to know the temp). Thank Gawd for Forums (& knowledgeable people like ya'll) like this.
 



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1999 Explorer XLT Overhead Console


Many thanks to Frank for the details and photos, they were great!.
Sure enough, resistor 510 loose one end. Visit to Radio Shack and a $10.99 25w solder iron pack c/w solder cured the problem. Was quoted over $200 to fix. :D
Installed and working great.
Keep up the good work, now off to find how to replace front fog lamp bulb!
 






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