Parking Brake Adjustment

[Craigerz]

Finally got around to replacing the parking brake pads. I have a Haynes manual and the parking brake section in the book is all but non existent. Tells how to remove and replace and that's about it.

I know how to adjust them with the screwdriver through the back plate and all, but how do I tell how much is too much? Is there a specific way to adjust them after they have been replaced? I'm sure with enough adjusting and playing and checking to see if they are dragging I can get it, but any advice on streamlining this process would be beneficial. I would also hate to scorch a new set of pads seeing as how this process was not exactly fun.

 

[swshawaii]

Not textbook, but this "method" worked for me. Found my parking brake pedal lower than I preferred when
engaged, and tightened them for a higher pedal with minimal or no dragging. Ford manual uses a .020" or
1/50" parking brake shoe gauge, and I couldn't see myself buying one for something this simple and easy.

Release the parking brake and remove the rubber adjuster covers. Use a stubby flat blade screwdriver and turn star adjuster until the shoes are tight against the drum. Loosen the adjuster 4 to 5 clicks, or just enough where the shoes aren't touching the drum. Repeat other side.

ebrake / parking brake tightening | Ford Explorer and Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

 

[Craigerz]

Thanks. That's along the lines of what I was thinking. Engage the parking brake half way, adjust til tight, release.

 

[swshawaii]

I adjusted mine released. IIRC, my pedal was almost bottomed and there's no cable adjustment.

Now it's about half way to the floor when pushed maximum. My PB cable(s) must be stretched.

 

[Craigerz]

Good deal. Mine wasn't functional at all, the pads were completely crumbled off the shoes. Found this out by driving 5 miles with the parking brake on and didn't even realize. Hell I could have been the one who roasted them...

 

[koda2000]

I replaced my parking brake shoes and adjusted the parking brake (with the brake OFF) through the hole in the rear of the plate until the rotor wouldn't turn, then backed off the adjusters until there was a slight drag/noise when turning the rotor. To back the adjuster off you have to use a second screw driver to hold the adjuster locking thing off the adjuster wheel. I'd guess my parking brake is fulling engaged when the pedal is about 1/2 down to the floor. I rarely use the parking brake unless I'm parking on a hill, but it's good to exercise the moving parts regularly so they don't rust solid.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto on adjusting the parking brake shoes until tight. I have had several of these trucks, and never did the parking brake hold well enough before. I've replaced the shoes and hardware twice on other trucks, so I was assuming the system just wasn't strong enough.

The last time I did this, it was for my now "new" 98 Limited. I knew I needed the parking brake to work well for delivering mail temporarily. I bought the new hardware and shores, but ended up reusing certain components of the original parts, they were better quality than the replacements(Dorman or something similar).

Tighten the adjustment screws until the rotor is very hard to put on. Go slow, don't be in a rush. It is a PITA to adjust the parking brake shoes. But if you truly want the brake to hold, the shoes need to be adjusted tight to the rotor when they are new. Turn the rotor by hand. You want to get the pads centered inside the rotor so the adjustment can be tighter. The pads move easily out of round, so play with it until you know the shoes are up snugly against the rotor inside.

Then adjust the screws again, with the rotors on, from the backside. As mentioned if they have to be loosened, it requires lifting the locking lever to allow the adjusting wheel to go the other way. Get them nice and snug against the rotor, just barely dragging. If you spend the time to get them adjusted that well, the parking brakes will hold on most mild inclines. They are not going to hold on steep inclines, they just aren't that strong. But adjusted well, they do fine now in my current truck. Regards,

 

[239]

My parking brake recently started making a clicking noise at low speeds. I’m wondering if they’re too tight, or most likely loosened over time. Then there’s the possibility that the brake shoes are in pieces, especially since I drove with the parking brake on for a few miles. But that was several years ago and the noise didn’t happen back then.

 

[CDW6212R]

My parking brake recently started making a clicking noise at low speeds. I’m wondering if they’re too tight, or most likely loosened over time. Then there’s the possibility that the brake shoes are in pieces, especially since I drove with the parking brake on for a few miles. But that was several years ago and the noise didn’t happen back then.

That's a big clue. The parking brake isn't likely to cause noises, or come apart in pieces and create other damage. You'd have to drive with them on continuously to create so much heat that it ruined an axle seal or bearing back there.

I drove with my parking brake on once in about 2004, fortunately it was just several miles, and the pads were originals, so they needed changing.

You will need to adjust them after that driving, but they are not likely the cause of the new noise you have. But it should help to locate the noise, to service the parking brakes. That's how I find most things I need or want to do next, by working on one thing, and seeing or thinking of something else.

 

[koda2000]

My parking brake recently started making a clicking noise at low speeds. I’m wondering if they’re too tight, or most likely loosened over time. Then there’s the possibility that the brake shoes are in pieces, especially since I drove with the parking brake on for a few miles. But that was several years ago and the noise didn’t happen back then.

Those parking brake shoes seem to fall to pieces whether you drive with them on or not. At any rate, there's only one way to know what's happening. Remove the rear brake rotor hats and look at them. If you find you need shoes and/or brake hardware replacing parts is a major PITA because there's no room to work with the axle flange in the way. I did it once with the axles in the way, but if I ever have to do it again I'm pulling the axles out first. Good time to service the rear diff and replace axle seals and bearings if you've got a lot of miles on your truck.

BTW - Unless you need the parking brake to pass inspection, they really don't work very well. At best they're a PARKING brake and in no way an EMERGENCY brake. Unless you regularly park on hills, If you've got an auto transmission you might just want to invest in a pair of wheel chocks to stick in the jack storage area instead. If you've got a std trans, besides chocks it's more necessary to get the parking brake to work, but the chocks are still a good idea. Getting the adjustment on the PARKING brake right is critical for their optimal function.

 

[donalds]

Well put

 

[239]

I never use the parking brake as there are no hills in my part of Florida. If they are in pieces do they require replacing? If I can get the pieces out I can live without the the parking brake. The only time I use it is when I put the front of the truck on jack stands but I also have wheel chocks for that.

 

[koda2000]

I never use the parking brake as there are no hills in my part of Florida. If they are in pieces do they require replacing? If I can get the pieces out I can live without the the parking brake. The only time I use it is when I put the front of the truck on jack stands but I also have wheel chocks for that.

If you have AWD a working PARKING brake is important in case you need to remove the front driveshaft and if you park on hills. I rarely use my PARKING brake (maybe once or twice a month) and I could live w/out it, but I like things to work and using it occasionally keeps the parts from seizing up. Whether you fix it or not is up to you, but I'd at least take a look at the shoes & hardware to see if that's what's causing your noise.

 

[239]

I’ll definitely get the rotor off and inspect it, but I’m 2wd so I should be ok. The only thing that I’m concerned about are the rear brake calipers. I’ve read somewhere on here that they don’t compress like the front calipers to fit them back over the rotors.

 

[koda2000]

I’ll definitely get the rotor off and inspect it, but I’m 2wd so I should be ok. The only thing that I’m concerned about are the rear brake calipers. I’ve read somewhere on here that they don’t compress like the front calipers to fit them back over the rotors.

They fit and can be compressed exactly like the front calipers. They're just a bit smaller, as it the rear rotor.

 

[CDW6212R]

The rear calipers are super easy to R&R, and work with. If you trust that the fluid is really clean(not old and full of unknown material), just pry the pistons inward with a screwdriver, before loosening anything there. There is plenty of access space at the top of each rear caliper to pry between the rotor and a pad.

Those pistons are easy to compress, just go slow putting the pads back into them. The four pads are two different pairs, with a little hook end on one end of each. That hooked end has to go at the bottom part of the caliper where you put them into it. With the pads in place in the caliper, and the two caliper bolts out completely or a long way out, hook the bottom pad edge into the caliper backing plate, and rotate the top part into place.

 

[239]

So my brakes aren’t clicking anymore but I can definitely hear them dragging now. Does anyone know which way to turn the adjuster screw to retract the shoes all the way? I don’t use the parking brake so I don’t mind if it never makes contact with the rotor. I feel like I’ll have to pull the rotor anyway but just wanted to try this first.

 

[poker4me007]

From the backside looking at the adjuster upward to loosen and downward to tighten.

 

[239]

Thanks for the info. I pulled the rubber cover and was surprised to see that the driver’s side screw was tightened all the way, while the passenger side screw had about 1/2” of thread exposed.

I loosened the bolt to match the passenger side and the clicking noise is pretty much gone and rarely occurs when braking. I also noticed that my wheel doesn’t heat up after a drive from the parking brake making contact with the rotor. I’ll continue to adjust until the brakes are completely quiet.

 

[Mohi]

I have a Ford Explorer XLT 2017, the issue is handbrake sign is always visible, even after we have changed ABS and censor.