How to: Parking Brake Removal and Installation (with pictures)

[RaveDigger]

Yeah, I'd recommend just doing the entire thing all at once. Also, if you feel like changing your diff fluid and axle seals, the parking brake installation is about 1000x easier without the axle shafts and hubs in the way.

 

[torqlox]

Okay, finished the passenger side last night. Installed WearEver Silver shoes and they work great. Gonna tackle the driver's side tonight. To be honest, it came across as a b!tch at the beginning, but only because I didn't get the technique down right. Now that I understand how it works, it should be a breeze for the other side. The only part that was a bit of a hassle was the hold-down springs, and that was only until I got the technique on compressing them down packed. The rest was pretty straight forward. I used 16 gauge wire to pull the spring while my girlfriend pushed it in place with a griped on vise grip needle nose. Tonight should be fun!

 

[torqlox]

Finally done! Right side front spring was done with electrical cable and Girlfriend pushing it in with a long nose VG, left side I did by myself pushing against the front leaf sprint mount with my left foot. The finish product... Wearever rotors, shoes, and pads.

 

[craftsman67]

I did this today...I now have a parking brake in good working order...Thanks guy's!

 

[48prerunner]

Great post anybody looking pics are in post #20

 

[Photobug]

I was just hoping to do the brakes but one of my rotors was frozen into place and required an hour of pounding to get it free. Then one of the E-brake pads came off with it.

Now I am facing this nightmare task.

I am having trouble with this part to get the cable locked or loose.


Before you start work on the parking brake, you need to loosen the cable. Right above the parking brake lever (that you push with your foot to engage the parking brake) there is a small hole. Reach under the car under the driver's seat and pull on the parking brake cable (or get a helper to pull on it). You can stick a nail or a drill bit through the hole shown here to keep the spring from pulling the slack out of the cable so you can work on the brakes.

Can someone explain this better? Do I push the P-brake and lock it off with the drill bit or do I pull on the cable and then put the drill bit in a hole to lock it off? This is on a 03 Eddie Bauer Explorer.

THanks

 

[jimandnena]

1997 Explorer 2wd 5L

Just finished replacing parking brake shoes and brake pads. I uploaded photos of the process here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/jimandnena4/ParkingBrake97Explorer2wd?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCMixy-q_w5f00wE&feat=directlink

I don't know about pinning the parking brake cable, I did one side at a time with no problems.
I read this entire thread before starting and it helped a lot.
jim

 

[Donald P]

Jim that's an excellent write up. Thanks for that - I've got to dig into mine next week and your pics will make it a lot easier going.

 

[jimandnena]

Jim that's an excellent write up. Thanks for that - I've got to dig into mine next week and your pics will make it a lot easier going.

Very welcome, Donald. I usually shoot photos of whatever I'm working on, I just need to get them labelled and posted. The Explorer has been fairly trouble-free but everything needs work eventually. Good luck.
jim

 

[Przybysz]

Great writeup!

I am stuck though

What is this part??? Mine is locked up! and how do you get it off???

Edit: Figured it out. Located here! http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=169967

 

[bobflood]

Great writeup!

I am stuck though

What is this part??? Mine is locked up! and how do you get it off???

Edit: Figured it out. Located here! http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=169967

That is the thing that actually spreads the e-brake shoes out to engage the drum when you step on the e-brake. It's the equivalent of the brake cylinder on hydraulic drum brakes. The ebrake cable should be attached to it on the back side of the mounting plate. I have never had to take one apart, nor do I know the "official" name for it, so can't help you there. Good luck.

 

[48prerunner]

Thats the lever it is actually two pieces. Mine was frozen I tapped it out with a hammer. Then lots of pb blaster and worked it back and forth, until i realized it came apart. Once I took it apart, wire wheeled it clean, then soaked in rust remover . painted them up. If you still need I can take pics of it.

 

[ajrn]

anyone know the part number for the brake actuators?? (99 exp 4x4, v6.)

I wasted an hour and was able to wrestle the passenger side out-- but they're BOTH pretty hopelessly frozen.. I've got the one out soaking in PB-- but at 12 hours, it wasn't going anywhere.. Can you beat them apart at the piviot with a drift??

Is there REALLY a mustang caliper that will bolt up that could save me this hassle in the future? Anyone know the PN of these??

 

[raiders1_3]

This was not as easy as I thought. Removing the old parts was not that bad. To put the new top spring on I put the left pad on first and attaced the new spring to it. I then attached the spring to the right pad by holding it slightly out of the groove that it would slide in to. I then used a small piece of a 2X4 to help me stretch the new spring and it popped in to place. Just put the corner of the 2X4 on the top part of the right pad and push up and back until the pad is in line with the grove.

 

[koda2000]

This was not as easy as I thought. Removing the old parts was not that bad. To put the new top spring on I put the left pad on first and attaced the new spring to it. I then attached the spring to the right pad by holding it slightly out of the groove that it would slide in to. I then used a small piece of a 2X4 to help me stretch the new spring and it popped in to place. Just put the corner of the 2X4 on the top part of the right pad and push up and back until the pad is in line with the grove.

hey whatever works. it's pretty tight trying to work in there (not like replacing regular drum brake shoe springs). i keep some old brake springs in my tool box. nothing better to stretch a spring than another spring.

 

[Sands]

I just did the rotors, pads and e brakes on a 2003 XLT 2WD Ford Explorer.

Out of the entire process by far the hardest was getting the e brake's long spring back on.

I tried for hours : with the help of another set of hands, long needles nose, 45 degree needle nose pliers, 90 degree needle nose pliers, the coat hanger trick, the zip ties trick and various combinations of all of them: nothing worked.

Then I learned of the tool!

It made putting the springs on so easy , that unpacking the tool took longer than successfully using the tool to put the long spring back on!

The tool:

OEM/Brake spring pliers
Autozone: $8.99
Part Number: 25000
Alternate Part Number: 263

Wal-Mart: $3.36
OEM Brake Spring Plier

Here's a link to an image of the pliers:

I put the sharp end into the spring hook i wanted to clip to the brake pad, and then into the spring hole I was aiming for.

The other hooked end, I used whatever I could on the frame of the car or brake assembly to get needed leverage : open the tool, the spring spreads, lined up with the hole and had my friend tap once with a screw driver: done.

Took less than 15 seconds.

 

[fiddlerpin]

That is the thing that actually spreads the e-brake shoes out to engage the drum when you step on the e-brake. It's the equivalent of the brake cylinder on hydraulic drum brakes. The ebrake cable should be attached to it on the back side of the mounting plate. I have never had to take one apart, nor do I know the "official" name for it, so can't help you there. Good luck.

When I took mine out the first time the two parts were siezed together. After separating them with some aerocroil I drilled out the one with the hole to the next size. This prevents them from seizing up. Use some antiseize compound on them. Work find now.

 

[fiddlerpin]

star adjusters

Can someone tell me which way the star wheel goes on a ford explorer 2000 emergency brake. Does it go closer to the caliper or away from it on each side. Thanks

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

On the driver's (left) side, the threaded part of the
starwheel assembly goes toward the front of the vehicle.

Don't remember for certain about the passenger side,
but I think the threaded part goes to the rear. That
would make it on the left hand side of the mechanic
working on the brakes (on both sides).

 

[koda2000]

I just did the rotors, pads and e brakes on a 2003 XLT 2WD Ford Explorer.

Out of the entire process by far the hardest was getting the e brake's long spring back on.

I tried for hours : with the help of another set of hands, long needles nose, 45 degree needle nose pliers, 90 degree needle nose pliers, the coat hanger trick, the zip ties trick and various combinations of all of them: nothing worked.

Then I learned of the tool!

It made putting the springs on so easy , that unpacking the tool took longer than successfully using the tool to put the long spring back on!

The tool:

OEM/Brake spring pliers
Autozone: $8.99
Part Number: 25000
Alternate Part Number: 263

Wal-Mart: $3.36
OEM Brake Spring Plier

Here's a link to an image of the pliers:

I put the sharp end into the spring hook i wanted to clip to the brake pad, and then into the spring hole I was aiming for.

The other hooked end, I used whatever I could on the frame of the car or brake assembly to get needed leverage : open the tool, the spring spreads, lined up with the hole and had my friend tap once with a screw driver: done.

Took less than 15 seconds.

I've always found that an old brake spring and a pair of vise grips makes a great tool for stretching springs. I've never needed anything more. that being said, replacing the parking brake shoes is a giant PITA. If I ever have to do this job again I'm pulling the rear axles out.