Inner Tie Rod Removal and Replacement (Pictures)

[OutofDate1980]

CDW6212R; bought Oetiker Side Jaw Pincer (US$41.00+tax) for ear clamp on inner TR bellows. Place "ear" toward floor and one has room between the cross bar column to clamp, without removing torsion bar.

Another newbe question, the Ford ITR has two circular indentations, so I placed the outer bellows clamp between these indentations. Hope this logic was correct?

 

[98XLT5.0]

In the process of removing my passenger side tie rod because the arm popped up and off the outer end. My truck is parked in east bumf**k in the woods in some random kind sir's driveway, and I am having trouble disconnecting the lock nut connection the inner and outer arms. I don't want to remove the whole assembly because I can only replace the outer right now. First question is can I remover the outer without removing the inner??? If so, how? I have soaked it in PB Blaster, using a pipe wrench and a breaker bar on the end of a big adjustable. I've banged on it with a rubber mallet for the upteenth time... All I can think of is to get ahold of a small torch and try heating it up. Any ideas? I gotta get this off his property by the end of the week, and I can't afford a tow that far. Any and all help is appreciated. Thanks.

 

[CDW6212R]

Be sure to follow the thread direction, loosening the nut the correct way. You can tell which way to turn the nut by inspecting the threads.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

I usually take 2 large vicegrips and a 16" adjustable crescent. Clamp down tight on the flat area in the center of the tie rod with one vicegrip and use the second one the body of the outer tie rod end. You can then hold the entire piece over so the vicegrip handles are up against the control arm. Put the crescent on the jamb nut and slowly/firmly torque it loose. Beating on it never seemed to help me with stubborn ones, just push harder. It will come loose so long as the tie rod and the tie rod end don't turn. The jam nut has to break free before the end has any hope of being removed.

 

[98XLT5.0]

Thanks guys. I'm gonna go out tomorrow, I'll let ya know how it goes... Still bringing the torch, Its way too much gas in other people's cars driving out there multiple times if it doesn't work again...

 

[Turdle]

If you are looking down the tie rod from the outer end---the jam nut should turn "clockwise" and the outer should turn "counterclockwise"

In other words you need to thread the jam nut on further to actually loosen it away from the outer, if that makes sense. Don't try to turn the jam nut and outer in the same direction.

 

[98XLT5.0]

Well I touched the inside of my arm to the tip of the very hot propane toch while measuring the tie rod ends, but otherwise it all went rather smoothly. Only about 5 minutes to do it, and the alignment is actually better than it was before. I am getting a raise with a retroactive check going back to Jan soon, so when that comes in I think I am going to do the other outer, and inners, all four ball joints, and possibly cv axles and hub assemblies. Id just as soon have an all-new front end rather than have each component go one at a time every couple months until I get really frustrated and blow the truck up into a true exploder.

 

[jremington59]

I just wanted to add something to this thread for those looking to see if they need inner replacements. I replaced all my front parts minus the tie rods because I could feel no play with just one tire off the ground. When I went to get it aligned there was enough play in the inners that it was scary. So in order to check properly it's best to get both fronts off the ground.

 

[russosborne]

Righty tighty lefty loosey?

Tried getting the passenger side off. 97 4wd. I couldn't get the inner rod to budge. Am I just not trying hard enough or am I tightening it? Was trying to go counterclockwise.
This is looking in at it.
Thanks,
Russ

 

[MountaineerGreen]

As best as I can remember, both tie rod ends are standard threads. If you have the new one you can check the threads to confirm.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

It's the same parts for both sides and the threads are standard. Is the jam nut already loose with the end free to turn in the adjustment sleeve?

The passenger side is usually the easier of the two. With tire off, jam nut loose, and steering turned to the right, the end should be clear with plenty of room to turn a long wrench at least 90 degrees of rotation. I would recommend using a large crescent wrench instead of the rental tool - it works better since you have a longer handle to get torque on it. If it's really tight, tap the handle of the wrench with a heavy hammer while you are applying torque.

 

[russosborne]

Thanks.
I must be looking at this wrong somehow. I just don't seem to have the room the pictures in this thread show. Using a pipe wrench on the inner tie rod as shown I barely have any room for movement of the wrench. I have both new inner and outer tie rods, so I am trying to get them off together.
Oh, well. Maybe this next weekend will be nice enough so I have a few hours of outside time. I also ordered the ball joint press from Amazon, that should get here soon.
Russ

 

[CDW6212R]

Thanks.
I must be looking at this wrong somehow. I just don't seem to have the room the pictures in this thread show. Using a pipe wrench on the inner tie rod as shown I barely have any room for movement of the wrench. I have both new inner and outer tie rods, so I am trying to get them off together.
Oh, well. Maybe this next weekend will be nice enough so I have a few hours of outside time. I also ordered the ball joint press from Amazon, that should get here soon.
Russ

Did you turn the steering wheel to move the tie rod out of the rack so you can reach it well?

 

[russosborne]

Did you turn the steering wheel to move the tie rod out of the rack so you can reach it well?

Yep, as far as it will go. It just seems like my sway bar is more in the way, which it couldn't be. I'm thinking about pulling it off since I have new bushings for it as well. Just seem to be taking more apart when I want to be putting it back together.

Can't believe it has been three months since I started doing this. Between the heart attack and lousy weather I just haven't been able to put much time into it lately. It is outside, which is lousy for working on it when it snows.
Good thing there are a lot of pictures here or I would be in trouble. I didn't take any myself, thinking this would be a single day job back then.

Thanks,
Russ

 

[CDW6212R]

I did all of mine at once, the arms/bar/tie rods, so I cannot recall if the sway bar might have been an issue.

I did buy a slick TRE boot tie locking tool, the best tie rods come with a boot and an OEM type steel locking ring. The slick tool crimps it just like OEM in one hand squeeze. Otherwise you use a long zip tie, which works fine too.

 

[russosborne]

Thanks. I need to look and see what all came with my rods. I bought Moogs, but I haven't opened the boxes yet. If they didn't come with the boots, I will need to get some.
I do have the rest of the stuff off, I am doing it all at the same time as well. So I might as well attack the sway bars now.
Russ

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Thanks. I need to look and see what all came with my rods. I bought Moogs, but I haven't opened the boxes yet. If they didn't come with the boots, I will need to get some.
I do have the rest of the stuff off, I am doing it all at the same time as well. So I might as well attack the sway bars now.
Russ

You just reuse the boots, assuming they aren't torn apart. A spring clamp holds it on the inner tierod. Once the inner and outer are separated, pinch the clamp with vice grips and slide off. Slide on the new inner and release the clamp to hold it in place.

 

[russosborne]

Well, I tore the passenger side apart. It had a hole in it anyway. So I will need at least one.
Thanks,
Russ

 

[ozmedia]

Video on a 97

Here's a good video I tripped upon on YouTube .

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=5MJOtr-vj6M

Looks like everything was loosened and replaced ready for the video but it's still a perfect video of the exact procedure explained here.

 

[nguyen_3]

I just finished my Inner Tie Rods last night, both sides on a 1996 Ford Explorer with 198K on her. Here are some of my tips:

1. Get the loaner Front End Kit from Advance Auto. Use the Pitt-man pulley to separate the separate the tie rod end from the Wheel Hub assembly (after you have removed the cotter pin and castle nut.

2. Put the castle nut back on (by hand) so that it is leveraged when you remove the nut that attaches the outer and inner tie rod. The OEM nut came off pretty easily on both drive and passenger sides.

3. Count the number of rotations when you remove the outer tie rod. This will help with the alignment when you put the outer tie rod back on.

4. Spend the $14.00 and get a pair of long needle nose pliers, the pliers with a curve 90-degree angle. This will save you a lot of time as you are removing the metal zip-tie clamp from the accordion-looking housing boot.

5. Get the loaner Inner Tie Rod Removing tool from Advance Auto. I used it to remove the passenger side inner tie rod. That came off without a hitch. The Driver side is another story. The driver side inner tie rod would not come out. It was stuck on like hell. I was about to give up until....tip #6

6. I bought the Cal Van 946 low profile inner tie rod tool. Well worth the $18. The tool is not a 1/2" socket, maybe 3/8" - none the less you'll need the adapter for a 1/2" Breaker Bar. I hooked the tool to a 1/2" breaker back as had to use a Steel Pipe for additional leverage to remove the inner tie rod. Like I said it was stuck! Clamp the Cal Van tool on real tight, I mean real tight and make sure it is biting hard on the bulb (round) part of the inner tie rod. Mine slipped a couple of times (came loose) and I thought I was screwed - no help in hell of getting the inner tie rod off. But, finally it came off after I clamped Cal-Van on and made sure it bit the bulb hard!

7. I used the Cal-Van tool to tighten (torque) the inner tie rods back on. I did NOT use the loctite/ glue that came with the Moog inner tie rods. Screw that, if I need to remove them again, I sure as hell don't want to go through this much trouble breaking the seal again.

I hope this helps. It took me a long time to remove the Driver Inner Tie Rod, without the Cal-Van tool. Send me a note if you need additional tips or clarification. I also did the Upper Control Arms and Lower Ball joints on both sides. I posted my tips under that forum (the one with Pictures)...search for it.

Best of Luck!!!