Pondering 2WD to AWD Conversion w/5.0

[SupaSwope]

So I know there are a lot of similar threads of this particular subject. But most of them are wanting true 4x4 using different parts from different vehicles and I get why they wanted it but I just kinda want some type of 4x4 the easiest way possible. If that possible to say haha.

So If I were to go the local pickapart and find a explorer with 5.0 awd system and everything looks decent and is there. Could I just swap it over pretty much? I sort of have a list of things but I was wondering if someone could shed some real light on my idea.

Wheel Hubs
Knuckle
CV Axles
Transfer Case
Tranny
Rear drive shaft/front drive shaft

Anything else I am missing from just the basic AWD swap setup?

 

[MAS Tequila]

Buy one that is already AWD or 4WD.

You'll spend more trying to convert yours than another will cost.

And I mean time as well as money.

You're vehicle will be out of commission a lot of the time you're working on the conversion.

But maybe you're just looking for a project to play with.

MT

 

[CDW6212R]

I agree, MT is right, the time, actually the labor for the trans/TC swap will be huge.

The front drive parts are minor, trivial basically, versus the trans/TC to swap out.

Yes you can do that basically as you are thinking, but think through the labor and time to do it, ... and then think again, you will be doing it almost twice. You have to remove the parts from your car, and install the new ones in. But think of the trouble also to get those parts, removing them at the JY.

We're just saying it'll be relatively tough hard work, long and hard.

BTW, add rotors to that list, the 4WD/AWD versions are just "hats" with no bearings in them. Best of luck,

 

[SupaSwope]

Yeah I understand Its a big project. Maybe I think its easier then it really is. I have taken on a project like that. Not saying I don't think I can do it just would be alottt as you guys have said.

See now the whole getting the parts from the yard I know is gonna be some sketchy stuff. But once I got them out. I was thinking I could put it all together in one of those places that rent lifts and shop space. I would probably prepay for a weekly rate. And I would have a Lift, Transmission Jack, Tools etc. If I had a whole week and those kind of tools I think I could probably do it.

But yeah I was just curios to see how many parts I was missing off the list. Minus the braking system. I would get all new stuff besides lines unless they needed different flex lines. Just need to think about my options right now.

I am basically rebuilding my mountaineer as far as mechanical goes. Inside trim will come later on. I have done most of my brake system other then the calipers, booster, abs sensor, lines. Will do the calibers soon. maybe even the flex lines. But the suspension is next. Everything is getting new stuff. even leaf springs, but not the torsion bars. I really don't want to mess with those. Seem really easy to mess up and not get perfect again. but will also be adding camber bolts on the upper control arms as well. Which when I do the upgrade and add the camber bolts I'm gonna go get an alignment right away. Once the brakes and suspension are done, Tranny and Engine. Which I already planned on pulling an engine from the junkyard, rebuilding it and then doing the swap.

Also torque converter in the trannys gotta be swamped anyways lol

I'm slowly moving my way forward but this is just a side idea I was thinking about. Thanks for the help so far!

 

[Turdle]

One more item for your list.

Front differential with torque bracket and all the retaining bolts.

I also feel it would be easier to get an AWD already built.

Putting a good amount of effort into cleaning up your 2wd for sale, then add a little cash and you could end up with something as nice, or even nicer.

 

[CDW6212R]

The torsion bars are fairly easy, other than how they can be stuck in the LCA's, mostly in northern climates. With the front up in the air, and the UCA ball joint dropped out of the spindle, there is not much force left on the torsion bars. The key adjustment bolt unscrews and the parts can slip out without much trouble, normally.

Before you go for an alignment, right then is the time to decide about the ride height. You can move it up and down readily to where you want it(tires in air to crank the adjustment bolts in). Before you finish that adjustment, make the two sides equal. That should be comparing the front heights of the LCA bushings, measure from the front of the front bushings, to the ground. Those should match, whether the fenders are equal or not. The suspension, the ride balance, it's based on equal suspension mounting points, not the body parts. If the suspension control arms are at different heights, then the geometry will be different left to right, for any given height.