Possible Blown Head Gasket? | Page 5 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Possible Blown Head Gasket?

Ok makes sense, thanks I'll have to get one back on there.

No prob;)yea if the hose coming off the intake tube was before the maf it wouldnt matter but its not so its just a vac leak and is bad.pcv valves help alot and make more power
 



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I think I confused myself here, let me backtrack. The hose from the pcv valve goes to the upper intake correct? Are you talking about the hose from the filler tube to the intake tube like that should have a pcv valve in it as well? I've never seen one there but it looks to serve the same purpose as the pcv vent in the other VC. I'm sure I'm looking for something that isn't there....
 






No there is only one valve and thats on the driverside.its made to shut and open as vac in the manifold changes but the other coming from intake tube will allays be sucking.he had removed the pcv valve and just put a filter there and plugged the hole in the intake manifold.so then the hose from the intake tube was just sucking air through the motor and in from that filter essentially it was just an open hole in the intake tube..
 






Ahhh!!!! got it! How about this? My '92 has a normal white pcv valve. I put a '91 engine in it and that one had a black disc one way valve in its place that served the same purpose. pcv valve must have proved to work better for the next model year.
 






I have 250k on it and as far as I know and can tell this is the first time it was opened up. I replaced the rad (used one from a local yard) and flushed it on 04-10 at 225k. It's kinda funny I was replacing the tensioner pulley after it failed and shredded my serpentine belt and I accidentally leaned on the upper rad hose (were it connects to the rad) and snapped it off. Which added insult to injury as I was doing this repair road side about ten+ miles from home.

Well if my truck lasts as long as yours I'd be stoked. I'm trying to do everything in my power to get my engine to last until 250k... I'm at 208k now. The only thing I have w/ mine is the 4.0 "tick". If I get mine to last that long I'm going to rebuild it w/ some of the similar items JD has.

I opted for a new radiator for mine. Since mine had a cracked tank I figured junkyard ones would be close to the same shape.... and it was a $30 difference between new and used (NC had some stupid junkyard prices).
 






Well if my truck lasts as long as yours I'd be stoked. I'm trying to do everything in my power to get my engine to last until 250k... I'm at 208k now. The only thing I have w/ mine is the 4.0 "tick". If I get mine to last that long I'm going to rebuild it w/ some of the similar items JD has.

I opted for a new radiator for mine. Since mine had a cracked tank I figured junkyard ones would be close to the same shape.... and it was a $30 difference between new and used (NC had some stupid junkyard prices).

Ya mine has had the 4.0 "tick" for a while now too. I'm surprised I got 250k out of her without anything major going wrong. I just hope My tranny holds up and if and when it takes a dump on me I'd like to do a manual swap.
 






Those 4.0's last quite a while.

I replaced the heads at around 285k miles (or was it 235k?). While I was in there I took the carbon off the top of the pistons..

I ended up rebuilding the motor at 355k miles. I actually grabbed a block with < 200k miles and used that one (and cam) and just rebuilt the rest.

~Mark
 






Those 4.0's last quite a while.

I replaced the heads at around 285k miles (or was it 235k?). While I was in there I took the carbon off the top of the pistons..

I ended up rebuilding the motor at 355k miles. I actually grabbed a block with < 200k miles and used that one (and cam) and just rebuilt the rest.

~Mark

I had 160000ish on mine and didnt see a sign of wear,rebuilt mine for a clogged oil screen.xeeks had 200000+ish and it still looked good .the bottom ends are very good,only if they had synthetic oil back then these would last FOREVER!
 






Those 4.0's last quite a while.

I replaced the heads at around 285k miles (or was it 235k?). While I was in there I took the carbon off the top of the pistons..

I ended up rebuilding the motor at 355k miles. I actually grabbed a block with < 200k miles and used that one (and cam) and just rebuilt the rest.

~Mark

Wow, well after I'm done with this my top end will basically be new, so hopefuly I'll get another 50k+ out of her until I have to yank her to do the short block/rebuild...
 






Wow, well after I'm done with this my top end will basically be new, so hopefuly I'll get another 50k+ out of her until I have to yank her to do the short block/rebuild...



The problem you have is water was in the oil,it will tear bearings up.i have pics and measurements of new bearings before and after water damage and its worn bad.i replaced mine after the first build and the second and third time i caught it so quick it didnt do no damage.
 






The problem you have is water was in the oil,it will tear bearings up.

And is he ever right!!! I had an 84 thunderbird, 302/AOD, it was Grandma's car and had an actual 95k mi (this was in 2009)....anyways blew a head gasket and didn't know it. Went to check the oil one day and seen the chocolate milk mix on the dipstick. It was about 10 min later after I checked the oil when I heard the rod bearing knocking.

I eventually sold the car as it was to someone who's mom had a similar car years earlier.... or some crap like that.
 






O i dont know if i said to pull those lifters out one at a time or mark where they came from and take them apart and clean them good.

Here's my lifters just yanked them. You can see the water droplets on them. Can they be taken apart it doesnt look like it?
P1060351.jpg
 






Here's my lifters just yanked them. You can see the water droplets on them. Can they be taken apart it doesnt look like it?
P1060351.jpg

HOPE you marked witch hole each one came from! Yes they pull apart,you very carefully pull that cone off,then a large plunger/piece off metal should pop out followard by a spring and a second plunger.spray them out real good with break cleaner.when your done they should have a easy bouncy springy feel to the plunger,some will probably be stuck and not come apart easily.
 






HOPE you marked witch hole each one came from! Yes they pull apart,you very carefully pull that cone off,then a large plunger/piece off metal should pop out followard by a spring and a second plunger.spray them out real good with break cleaner.when your done they should have a easy bouncy springy feel to the plunger,some will probably be stuck and not come apart easily.

Ok thanks. Yes I have them in order and know were they go. Will carb cleaner be ok to use? I can go get brake cleaner I just don't have any at the moment.
 






Ok thanks. Yes I have them in order and know were they go. Will carb cleaner be ok to use? I can go get brake cleaner I just don't have any at the moment.

Yea it should,i just say break cleaner because it cheaper round here
 






Try not to get cleaner on the cone,it will make them brittle. Also when you done cleaning them ad after they are back together take some fresh oil and either soak them or pour it in the side hole and pump the plunger up and down to suck some oil into them.
 






Yea it should,i just say break cleaner because it cheaper round here

Ok, wasn't sure what your reasons were. So guys like brake cleaner better cause it absorbs moisture, dries faster and doesn't leave a residue. Going down to stripe and clean'em.
 






Ok, wasn't sure what your reasons were. So guys like brake cleaner better cause it absorbs moisture, dries faster and doesn't leave a residue. Going down to stripe and clean'em.

Yea im just cheap!!hahha
 






Yea im just cheap!!hahha

Oh, me too. Carb cleaner is cheaper than brake cleaner around here. Just got done strip'n and clean'n, worked out perfect, all moving freely. Although the second plunger was tough to get out.
 



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Right on
 






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