Power Seat Problems

[OJanda]

I have been working on swapping the interior from a stock explorer into my 2017 police interceptor. I noticed before I took the driver seat out of the parts explorer it wouldn’t move backwards. I have now swapped the seat into my PIU and it still doesn’t move. All the other functions of the seat works except for moving backwards. I tested the plug going into the motor responsible for moving the seat forward and back and got 12v and -12v which seems right. I also know it’s not the motor or the track because I swapped both of those over from my police seat. I’m not sure what it could be. Does anybody have an idea?

 

[Steve8316]

It almost has to be the switch. Exactly how did you "test the plug going into the motor", and where exactly was each probe when you "got 12v and -12v"? Post pics.

 

[OJanda]

Ok, the first two picks are from the unplugged connector that goes into the motor when pressing the switch forward or back, this is where I got 12v and -12v. This third pick is when that same connector is actually plugged into the motor while pushing the switch back. When the connector is plugged into the motor I get 12v when moving the seat forward, but around .1v when trying to move the seat back. I think it’s most likely the switch too, but don’t know why the connection seems to be getting the right voltage when not plugged in.

 

[Steve8316]

The voltage is higher because no current is flowing. It's like measuring water pressure when the line is blocked (connector unplugged) vs. wide open (connector plugged in).

If the motor runs strong forward, but not at all backward, you can assume it's NOT a motor fault. And if you're using all the original PIU motors & wiring (not the Explorer DSM), then this should be the same as yours. With the motor plugged in, and the switch held in REARWARD (seat not moving - still stuck forward), measure voltage from Vt/R to Gn; and from Bk/Bu to Gn/Vt. Each should be virtually 0, but if the switch is bad, one of them will be close to B+.

 

[OJanda]

Thank you! I tested those wires and I’m pretty sure the switch is bad. I’ll order a new switch and see if that fixes it. Thanks again!

 

[Steve8316]

I tested those wires...

How, exactly?

...I’m pretty sure...

That's another way of saying "NOT sure".

I’ll order a new switch and see if that fixes it.

That's probably a waste of time & money. If you can't diagnose it, pay someone who can. It'll likely cost you less & take less time to get it working right. For wiring, go to a stereo/alarm shop - they generally know 12V wiring better than mechanics, and can find/fix problems faster for le$$.

 

[OJanda]

I tested the voltage those wires just like you said, and it gave me 12v and 0v like you said it was when the switch is bad. I then went even further, and took a look inside the switch. I found a couple spots where the solder looked cracked. I reflowed the solder, then tried to put it back together, but I broke the plastic housing. It works now, but the housing is barely staying together. So I do have a switch ordered now, and it’ll be here in about a week. Thanks for your concern, and all of your help! I don’t know if I could’ve done it without you!