Power Window Bushing Replacement | Page 4 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Power Window Bushing Replacement

i tried the bushings, but they were too big, and i know i have to sand them down, or whatever, but i didnt have access to anything like that :) so what i used in place of the bushings were three (3) 7/16 hex nuts. fit in there perfect, and the window is working perfect. cost me nothing because i had them in my tool box :D
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Rear windows work again

Just got done doing my 2 rear doors as well. The write up was excellent and really did help. One small note when putting the new bushings in place. Instead of holding the bushings to the gear when putting them in I placed the bushings in the plastic gear and pushed the metal gear on top of them, using my fingers to slighty push the bushings out of the way so that the gear would slide in. Worked like a charm on both sides. Either way works fine, but thought I might give a different option that might make the fix a little easier:)

.
 






Geez!!! I just saw this post! GREAT POST!:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: GREAT PICTURES!:thumbsup::thumbsup: :thumbsup:
GREAT INSTRUCTIONS!:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 






Jshack, when you get the three screws out just pull on the back of the motor where the two cables are. it will just pull off and allow you to get the motor out. The cables are attached to a female gear that plugs into the metal gear on the window motor. When you put the motor back in you will have to line up the metal gear on the window motor to the one attached to the cables. Not too hard, just a little time consuming.(Trust me, the second one will be easier than the first) The three screws that you take out also hold the female gear in place on the metal gear of the window motor, so make sure that those line up as well. Hope this helps:)
 






Awesome post. You saved me hours today. Thanks
 






I am going to kinda chip in here real quick with a question of my own. My motor has been working fine and still is but I broke one of the cables the other day. So I went to a junkyard, pulled a motor with a cable and the thing that the window runs up and down on. It's all still connected with the cables, but for the life of me I don't know how to remove this assembly from my truck without causing the damage to it that I needed to get it out of the Ex. in the junkyard. The Ex. in the junkyard got many dings, scratches, and I even had to rip a bit of the rubber off of the outside to get in there. Can anyone give me any advice on how to remove the entire assembly: The motor, thing the window rides up and down on, and the window itself. Without much damage please. Thanks for the help.
Big Red
 






what is the exact name of the bushings u got from auto zone cuz down here they dont have a clue what i'm talking about
 












Awesome thread, thank you for taking the time to do this.:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 






So how did you know you needed to replace the bushings? I've got a '92 and the windows will not go up or down without help. Pushing the buttons just makes them make a clicking noise.
 






great

thanks...I have to do this and the pictures sure help.
 






Anyone know if this will work on a 93 LE??
 






I am not sure of explorer window motor size. But I have done this same repair on a 87 ford truck and I cut slices off of a one of those cheap round pocket screwdrivers you get from places to use for bushings.
 






When this needed replaced, did the window make a clicking noise when trying to roll up? I can help my windows up and they will then kinda slide out of track, and roll up, but just wondering if that is what I need to do...
 






The Front passenger door on my 94 Explorer was a little different. Once I took off the door panel all I had to do was remove the speaker and the motor was right there at the opening. I still had to drill out the dimple for the third screw by the speaker though.
 






Thanks!

dykzeulb, et al: That sounds like the issue. The window motor will make noise (clicking and whining), but the window won't move at all or it might intermittently move.

I've now done all four windows on my X, and it is really nice to be able to use my windows one handed again. :D

I did the first three, while the fourth was still working. Not a week later it started acting up - it would work but not reliably. When I pulled the motor, the bushings weren't <Marvin the Martian voice>completely disintegrated</Marvin> like the others. They were distorted and cracked, so I replaced them.

For others, one of my windows would inch down on its own over time (the passenger rear), and it had the same bushing issue. The front windows just wouldn't work, but would stay up. I suppose a result of the different lift mechanisms. (I found the front windows slightly easier, because I didn't have to blindly mate the motor regulator back to the pulley thing.

Oh, another tip I learned on the first one (driver's window). It really is a torx head screw, even if you can't see the outline because it's filled over with crud that matches the screw. And if you bend it out of the way, because you think you can't unscrew it, it will still work, you just have to work a little bit more to get it in place. :rolleyes: :confused:

I did have to work at getting the bushings in, but my trick was to use a little grease to hold them in place, but have them sticking past the end of the metal gear part, so they were slightly pointing in. It was a rather tight fit, but it worked.
 






I guess when I do my front two, ill post the pics here that way you can see the back & the front.
 






Ummm....will you come and fix mine please??? Excellent instructions...thanks!!
 






Nuts instead of Bushings!

Having depleted every none tactic for tracking down the bushings from an autozone, or local napa, I used 1/4 inch zinc plated nuts. I called the folks at South Florida Window Lift and they suggested the nuts. Total cost was 48 cents!

And, as others have pointed out, the front doors on my '92 XLT, were a tad different than the rears, but there's enough information in this thread to figure out what to do.

One annoying thing was that the bolts that attached motor to the door were completely different from the front to the back.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





On my '93 fronts, I didn't notice the dimples as in the back doors. I just started to drill out the rivets (3 total I believe) but had to stop because my bit was dull. Am I doing it right?
 






Back
Top