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Powertrax No-Slip Question
- Thread starter Robert
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taxx
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I really shouldn't say idiots cause I had a say in mine too. But the pros out there should either know better or be inteligent enough to talk to someone that does before knocking down the pin. I did mine at 4wheel parts and they don't even seel powertrax. SO I recomend taking it to someone that does and also explaning the above to them.
taxx
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The one from randy's is the replacement powertrax part. I called powertrax to get the number (sorry don't have it anymore)
Getting the pin out is simple. Read the powertrax instructions though. There is a screw you remove then slip out the pin, but before putting the new one in you need to make sure the springs are in place and that everything is lined up. I know it seems intimidating at first but once you look at it and have read the instructions a couple times it is easy.
Getting the pin out is simple. Read the powertrax instructions though. There is a screw you remove then slip out the pin, but before putting the new one in you need to make sure the springs are in place and that everything is lined up. I know it seems intimidating at first but once you look at it and have read the instructions a couple times it is easy.
Robert
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A sticky thread would probably help some people out. Unfortunately, it wouldn't have helped me a bit (unless maybe I noticed it after the fact). I ordered my gears and no-slip back in March. Everything came in in June and I had them installed then. Since they are a reputable shop, I took there word that they knew what they were doing. I had no reason to doubt them. Oh well, at least I know there is a fix. Fortunately, mine has never failed to engage, it just bangs when I come to a stop as it releases.
Robert
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Looking at the Powertrax instructions courtesy of JDraper, it looks pretty easy and straight forward. I probably won't even bother going back to Desert Rat since it would mean sitting there all day again. They would also end up putting in the 80W dinosaur oil anyway. I still want to put the original 75W140 synthetic fluid back in so I might as well do the cross pin while I'm at it.
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Sheesh, log off for a couple of hours, and looky at all the info 
. Well, guess I don't need to post the bar dimensions since Gerald beat me to it.
Doing the Powertrax install is easy in the 8.8. Took me about 2.5 hours to do from start to finish. It's a little more complex in the front axle, but still doable at home if you pay attention to detail.
If anyone who is following this thread needs advice/help on doing either a front or rear Powertrax (No-Slip or Lock-Rite) install, shoot me a PM. I've already done several in both axles, including ones in the open diff and the limited slip rear.
. Well, guess I don't need to post the bar dimensions since Gerald beat me to it.Doing the Powertrax install is easy in the 8.8. Took me about 2.5 hours to do from start to finish. It's a little more complex in the front axle, but still doable at home if you pay attention to detail.
If anyone who is following this thread needs advice/help on doing either a front or rear Powertrax (No-Slip or Lock-Rite) install, shoot me a PM. I've already done several in both axles, including ones in the open diff and the limited slip rear.
Robert
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UPDATE
Well I got my new round cross-pin shaft installed. The first thing I did before taking anything out was to measure the gap between the couplers using the measuring block provided by Gerald (thanks again Gerald). It became immediately obvious that the gap was too wide. The no-go:go measuring block became a go-go:go block. Next, I pulled the shaft out that Desert Rat ground down so that I could replace it with the round Powertrax shaft (see picture below). When I got it out, I noticed one of the saddle springs didn't completely seat in the hole which caused it to get twisted out of shape. Since it wouldn't retract in to the hole correctly, it provided a contant preassure on the shaft at that point. I ended up getting a new spring kit from Desert Rat and put the round shaft in. I didn't have any means of addressing the wider than normal gap though. With the round shaft in, the frequencly of the banging drastically reduced. Before it would bang probably 7 out of 10 times. Now it is down to 4 out of 10 times. The severety didn't change though when it does bang. To use a phrase from JDraper, it feels like someone is hitting my rear differential with a 5 pound sledge hammer when it unlocks. I called Powertrax to ask about the wider than normal gap. The Technician felt that the banging was due to the larger gap. He felt that either my carrier was worn out or the cross-pin shaft hole was not perfectly centered (IE MFG. defect). Either case would be extremely rare though. He was quick to confirm though that with their locker you definately want a round shaft. Do not grind down the shaft. Instead grind the tips of two teeth on the ring gear if the shaft won't slide right in (see picture below). This should only be necessary for 4.56 gears and taller. Since the Desert Rat that did my installation last claimed that there was nothing wrong with my locker and all I needed was a fluid change, I didn't want to go back there again (especially after seeing the condition they left my shaft in and the fact that they left too large of a gap between the couplers). The instructions even state that if the gap is not correct, to stop and call Powertrax for further instructions (in bold with phone #). I went to the store that the District Manager worked at to request reimbursement for the shaft I shouldn't have had to buy. Also, when I went to put my un-used spare tire back up, I noticed a huge tennis ball sized burn hole on the edge where Desert Rat had it resting on my exhaust pipe. I asked the district manager to reimburse me for the shaft and a new spare tire. Since I still had the banging and didn't feel that it should be so severe, I mentioned it to him along with the wide gap. He had his gear guy take it apart and check it out. He said the other store should have put some shims in to get the gap closer together so he put them in. It seems a bit less frequent again, but it still bangs more than I think it should. I've got about 2500 miles on it now and when it was first installed it was very smooth and quiet. It acts as if it doesn't want to unlock. When I slow down to take a corner, as soon as I start turning I get the loud "bang" and my rear end shifts over. It will sometimes even activate my ABS. Since it isn't nearly as bad as it was a month ago, I figure I'll just learn to live with it. The Technician went with me for a quick ride. Unfortunately I couldn't get it to bang as loud as it normally does and what he heard and felt, he said was perfectly normal. He said as long as all I get is one "bang" when turning that is OK. The one thing I will give credit to Desert Rat for was the way the District Manager treated me. He was genuinly sincere about making sure that I was happy with their service. He had no arguements about reimbursing me for the tire and shaft and had the corporate office mail me a check the next week. He also was willing to take apart my rear end and look at it and fix it while I waited even though I showed up unannounced at 3:00. He couldn't believe the treatment I received at the other store and said it would be addressed. The most valuable two things I've learned from this are 1) don't grind down the cross-pin to get it in and 2) don't use the Desert Rat store that I first used.
New Powertrax cross-pin on left, Desert Rat's attempt on the right
Teeth to grind off so that round shaft will fit
Well I got my new round cross-pin shaft installed. The first thing I did before taking anything out was to measure the gap between the couplers using the measuring block provided by Gerald (thanks again Gerald). It became immediately obvious that the gap was too wide. The no-go:go measuring block became a go-go:go block. Next, I pulled the shaft out that Desert Rat ground down so that I could replace it with the round Powertrax shaft (see picture below). When I got it out, I noticed one of the saddle springs didn't completely seat in the hole which caused it to get twisted out of shape. Since it wouldn't retract in to the hole correctly, it provided a contant preassure on the shaft at that point. I ended up getting a new spring kit from Desert Rat and put the round shaft in. I didn't have any means of addressing the wider than normal gap though. With the round shaft in, the frequencly of the banging drastically reduced. Before it would bang probably 7 out of 10 times. Now it is down to 4 out of 10 times. The severety didn't change though when it does bang. To use a phrase from JDraper, it feels like someone is hitting my rear differential with a 5 pound sledge hammer when it unlocks. I called Powertrax to ask about the wider than normal gap. The Technician felt that the banging was due to the larger gap. He felt that either my carrier was worn out or the cross-pin shaft hole was not perfectly centered (IE MFG. defect). Either case would be extremely rare though. He was quick to confirm though that with their locker you definately want a round shaft. Do not grind down the shaft. Instead grind the tips of two teeth on the ring gear if the shaft won't slide right in (see picture below). This should only be necessary for 4.56 gears and taller. Since the Desert Rat that did my installation last claimed that there was nothing wrong with my locker and all I needed was a fluid change, I didn't want to go back there again (especially after seeing the condition they left my shaft in and the fact that they left too large of a gap between the couplers). The instructions even state that if the gap is not correct, to stop and call Powertrax for further instructions (in bold with phone #). I went to the store that the District Manager worked at to request reimbursement for the shaft I shouldn't have had to buy. Also, when I went to put my un-used spare tire back up, I noticed a huge tennis ball sized burn hole on the edge where Desert Rat had it resting on my exhaust pipe. I asked the district manager to reimburse me for the shaft and a new spare tire. Since I still had the banging and didn't feel that it should be so severe, I mentioned it to him along with the wide gap. He had his gear guy take it apart and check it out. He said the other store should have put some shims in to get the gap closer together so he put them in. It seems a bit less frequent again, but it still bangs more than I think it should. I've got about 2500 miles on it now and when it was first installed it was very smooth and quiet. It acts as if it doesn't want to unlock. When I slow down to take a corner, as soon as I start turning I get the loud "bang" and my rear end shifts over. It will sometimes even activate my ABS. Since it isn't nearly as bad as it was a month ago, I figure I'll just learn to live with it. The Technician went with me for a quick ride. Unfortunately I couldn't get it to bang as loud as it normally does and what he heard and felt, he said was perfectly normal. He said as long as all I get is one "bang" when turning that is OK. The one thing I will give credit to Desert Rat for was the way the District Manager treated me. He was genuinly sincere about making sure that I was happy with their service. He had no arguements about reimbursing me for the tire and shaft and had the corporate office mail me a check the next week. He also was willing to take apart my rear end and look at it and fix it while I waited even though I showed up unannounced at 3:00. He couldn't believe the treatment I received at the other store and said it would be addressed. The most valuable two things I've learned from this are 1) don't grind down the cross-pin to get it in and 2) don't use the Desert Rat store that I first used.
New Powertrax cross-pin on left, Desert Rat's attempt on the right
Teeth to grind off so that round shaft will fit
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