Powertrax NoSlip Front Locker for 95+

[Jefe]

Only negatives I see are that I beleive the air actuated front end assembly is actually a part of the front axle assembly (on the passenger side) so it would require a whole new (used) case, which will up the price. The other problem is that with it disengaged and running in Auto4x4, power will be lost out the front of the T-case, instead of being put to use.
(edit) I take that back. . .with a locker up front you would then be in "3 wheel drive" which would still be giving you steering/control problems?

 

[Jason_25]

Jefe, you're right about that. But like I said I am going with a manual t-case and won't have to worry about things such as the auto 4x4.

 

[Jefe]

yes, well, you put an atlas-II or something in there and then you wouldn't have a problem with an auto locker up there. . . that is if you dont mind an auto locker up front. I personally think it could be very bad to have an auto locker front and rear in snow or mud. I have enough problems with mine in the rear in those conditions . . .and we jaunt furter from the subject. . Sorry.

 

[Rick]

For 2k you could get an Atlas II and have real 2wd not the give and take torque directing clutch within the transfer case setup. For $150 - $200 you could get a used manual transfercase from a Ranger or Explorer and accomplish the same thing.

 

[GJarrett]

Rick, I'm sure you are right, but $2k++install+stuff(front driveshaft, etc)+ car rental while I am getting it done = $3k(?) is a heckuva lotta money to an unemployed bum living in Hickville.....

 

[Rick]

And how much time/money will it cost to swap a Ranger front end into an Explorer? And what will the actual benefit be besides being able to run a locker?

With a stock manual t-case you gain the reliability of a lever operated transfer case, the ability to use a front locker and you can get rid of the crap CV joint on the front D-shaft that needs to be replaced once a suspension lift is done.

From what I've seen it looks like the rear shaft can stay the way it is, only the front would need to be modified. And it would be a common shaft with two regular U-joints.

 

[Jason_25]

Rick is absolutely right.

It's actually not all that hard to do. I plan to do it right in my driveway where I do everything else. I give myself a weekend for the total install time. And as far switching differentials. It's not hard either. And it's written out very well in the Haynes manual.

 

[GJarrett]

Well, I'm still unemployed, and brought this up as a result of a brainstorming (brainfarting?) session with Wade. This went from a $200 hub swap to an Atlas and/or complete frontend swap quick. I'm just not in the market to pay $2k+ for a locker.

I like the idea of an old manual tcase though. Although, if you've seen the console of a '99 EB, I'd have no idea where I'd put those levers, LOL.

 

[Jason_25]

Yes my console is totally in the way.
The only think I can think of is mount the levers to the sides of the console at an angle........but that would be sorta dangerous.

 

[Ray Lobato]

The levers on my Atlas are mounted to the left of my console. It shouldn't be much of a hassel to do it.
Gerald, I sure hope you are talking about vacuum actuated auto hubs on the 98 Rangers and not what the 95-96 Explorers have. That would be much better.

 

[GJarrett]

Ray, I don't know. I knew what the 95-96 Explorer setup was but the Ranger sounded not quite the same. There's a big difference between actuating a hub bearing and actuating an entire axleshaft near the diffy.

I posted the suggestion trying to find out if anyone does know. I wasn't looking for frontend swaps and etc, d@m# we can do a SAS for that and live with no uptravel.

Wade and I agreed to exchange information; my assignment is to get the hub assemblies for both vehicles side-by-side and see what the differences really are and if the Ranger one really connects at the hub bearings and not at the axleshaft coupling to the diffy. I said straightup we didn't know. Maybe I posted this suggestion early but I was taking the lazy route and hoping to find someone that knew for sure.

I guess I need to go get a few hub bearing assemblies and play around with them.

 

[Rick]

Since Wade works at a Ford dealer couldn't he just have them pull the parts and take a look?

 

[Ray Lobato]

He should be able to print out the parts drawings from the computer, and then scan them and email them to you.

 

[GJarrett]

That's his part and is exactly what he is going to do.

 

[go off road]

POWERTRAX No-Slip in the front!!

I am going to be the Guinea pig. The PowerTrax is here in a box. I hope to install it this week and then I will need to take it out and give it the test. I do not know how it is going to act on the hard stuff like rocks but Moab is the test I am looking forward to.

Wade

 

[Ray Lobato]

Hi Wade,
I would really like to see a picture of those "vacuum operated front hub bearings". Is this possible?

 

[go off road]

I started the install of the PowerTrax today but gess what ? They sold me the wrong kit so they are sending me a new center pin for the spider gears and they do not tell you that you need to remove the Ring gear. It did not seem like to bad of a job but the part problem sucked, pulling the axels and droping the Diff. is not all that hard, as soon as the part is hear I will have it on the road in a hour. If you guys get some time go to rockcrawler.com they have a write up on front locker in a Jeep Dana 30.

Ray, I will print some for you but to get a better idea go look at a 98-99 Ranger and then look at yours. To run vacume and a switch to make this all work does not look all that hard. But maybe just haveing the locker will work out for me.

Wade

 

[jasonb]

that would pretty neat if it works! look forward to hearing the results

 

[GJarrett]

Okay here's the scoop

Wade is busy installing his Powertrax; I took a trip to the local Ford dealer today to eyeball a hub assembly.

The good news: while they didn't have one in stock (this is not exactly a common part; the closest one to me is at a dealership in Chattanooga, TN) I got a printout of this hub. It is a "pulse actuated vacuum hub assembly". And YES, the drawing shows the vacuum lines going into the HUB, not the axle tube!

The bad news is that this part ain't cheap ($227) and return policies on mods seem to go nowhere here since the dealership isn't too keen on ordering me a part I'll probably return.

I have emailed Torrie and am working out a return deal for him to ship me one of these hub assemblies. Please do not bombard him with questions or requests since it is still a shot in the dark for him too. I will order this hub and try to install it as soon as I get it; hopefully next week sometime. If this works, I'd like the rest of you that are interested in this to give Torrie the business for sticking his neck out with us on this experiment, instead of special ordering it from your local dealership.

If it fits...

WOOF! I'm buying a Powertrax. Herc will be a BigDawg before the Tellico run, and where better to test it out than on the wet moss covered rocks of North Carolina?

Jefe, yes, we will still be in 3 wheel drive, which means turning on pavement will require a learned technique. My rear NoSlip doesn't engage under limited throttle and once turning and the wheel speeds are already differienciating, it takes a lot of throttle to engage it. I am hoping that since the "4auto" setting we have doesn't engage full power to the front, it won't engage the locker either.

But it might. If so, it may still be okay. I am thinking that to execute a U-Turn on pavement will require coasting into the start of the turn but once in the turn a good amount of power could still be applied to finish the U-turn without squealing the tires. If it was another locker besides the NoSlip that gripped sooner, I don't think it would be easy to handle. But based on the great street manners of my rear NoSlip, I'm betting that the front will be just as easygoing. Heck, if it fits, our Explorer hubs are interchangeable (same part for both sides). If you wanted to shell out the extra bucks, you could buy two ranger hubs and the whole front will disengage. That would make sort of a "homemade ARB" system and bring it up to the price of an ARB, too.

There isn't much else to say at this point. I promise to update this thread as soon as I get my hands on the hub and try to install it; it may be a couple of weeks. And I don't have a scanner either to post the drawing; just trust me, it is very clear and shows the vacuum lines going directly into the inside of the hub assembly itself.

 

[Jefe]

Gerald, I don't care what anyone else says about you. You're my hero.

I'm sure you'll let us know how it goes.