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Performance Upgrades - Maintenance - Modifications - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street Trucks. Covering the Explorer, ST, Sport, Lincoln Aviator, Sport Trac, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar. Featuring H.I. - Human Intelligence.
How do you get the plastic housing off the master cylinder. I guess its the safety switch or something. I need to remove this so I can do the bleeding procedure mentioned above..right?
It is the safety switch. Use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry the sides. You need to pry the front and the rear.
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oh hell! i think ill just take it to a mechanic! lol. i cant even get under the darn truck..... But i will try the simpleest way push the pedal, losen the screw, push it thru....
The clutch hydraulic system on these vehicle's is the Devil's own. Unable to completely bleed it using the Hayne's method, or my reverse bleeder, I was finally forced to follow the final straw instructions contained in my Phoenix reverse bleeder. With the master cylinder in place on the firewall, but the pushrod disconnected from the clutch pedal, I removed the circlip holding the master cylinder piston in place, allowing the fluid to leak pass the piston and push the bubble out of the cylinder. Once the fluid leaked past for a moment or two, you push the piston back in the bore, replace the circlip and reinstall the pushrod. Messy? You bet. Uncomfortable? Uh-huh. But, it finally got the last of the air out and restored my old clutch's functionality.
please explain this to me in detail, although it does sound straight forward, this info is very useful and i thank you, are you saying to disconnect the pushrod under the dash that connects to the MC, and remove the circlip? I have done this 2x trying the MC way of letting it gravity bleed, So I think I know what you are talking about up to this point, But Im confused from here, how would it leak or let bubbles out? thanks
Although I have a 1993, and I am unsure whether your 2001 vehicle has the same hydraulic set up as mine - let me explain a little more how it worked for me.
As you know, when the master cylinder is attached to the firewall, the cylinder bore sits at a 45 degree angle upward - that upward angle causes the trapping of air bubbles.
After you disconnect the neutral safety switch that surrounds it - forgot that earlier - it is mentioned in the string discussion - and leave the pedal pushrod in place (my mistake), you can access the circlip that holds the master cylinder's piston in place in the bore. It's tough to reach, as there's not a ton of room under the dash. Once the circlip is removed, the spring that sits under the piston will begin to push it out of the bore. As it pushes out, the brake fluid in the reservoir will begin to leak past the piston seal, pushing the air bubble out along with it. Let it leak out for a second or two, then push the piston back into the bore. You can use the pedal to help push the piston down far enough to allow you to reinstall the circlip. Remember, this is a last resort, when all other efforts are unsuccessful.
yep you sure did clarify, as mentioned before i have disconnected the pushrod/circlip in another way, but i just did it your way and walla, I have a clutch pedal that is superb and feels like it did the day it came off the lot, thanks so much mane.
Why is that? Because it's a PITA or because it damages the seal?
You're not talking about the clip that holds the master cylinder to the firewall, right? I can't imagine an external circlip that would release the piston outwards. It would seem to me whatever is holding the piston in the master cylinder is something that is inside the plastic master cyl housing. Anyone who can take a pic, it would be much appreciated.
It's a last resort, I believe, because it is really difficult to access the clutch master cylinder while it's still bolted to the firewall.
The clip I mentioned is an internal circlip that sits in the master cylinder bore and keeps the piston assembly in place. This circlip is also tough to reach. Re compromising the piston seal, I have had no problems with leakage of fluid past the piston seal. Sorry, I have no picture to hang.
Don't laugh guys but I can't locate bleeder valve on clutch housing.I just bought this 95 Explorer and not to familiar with it yet.I have the Haynes repair manual but it has'nt helped me much.Can someone out there draw me a map to it so I can start bleeding!Thanks, Clutchless
The slave cylinder bleeder valve is directly above the connector on the bellhousing where the master cylinder hose attaches. I'm having the same problem with my stepson's '94 Sport. After a lot of cussing and gnashing of teeth, I figured out that somehow, the master cylinder hose became disconnected from the bellhousing and caused the master cylinder to lockup. This caused the plastic piece on the clutch pedal rod to break when he tried to shift to 3rd. Unfortunately, I didn't realize this until after we bought and installed a new master cylinder. I didn't do proper research before intstalling it and still haven't gotten it to bleed out yet. I am going to have to disconnect the hose from the bellhousing and attempt once again to bleed the master cylinder. I am NOT going to take that frakkin' thing out again. The various cuts and bruises on my arms and hands still haven't healed from the installation. Anyway, it's been too cold and rainy the past few days to work on it. So maybe I'll get it all straightened out this weekend. The tips and tricks on this site are extremely helpful!!
The last time that I sent my Exp to mechanic for to fix the clutch problem, he told me that the size of clutch disc for Exp 4 x 4 was more wide respect of clutch that my Exp it had in that moment. So, he changed the clutch and the problem was out !!....is strange, but since that moment no more problem I have had.
I just gave up on my stepson's '94 Explorer sport 5-speed. We tried all day about a week ago to bleed the master cylinder and couldn't get the stupid thing to work. I've decided to walk away from it for a while before I kill it. I'll go back this weekend and pull the master cylinder off and bench bleed it. That may work. If it doesn't, I'm just gonna set fire to the stupid thing and enjoy the show.
I just replaced a Slave Cylinder in my 1991 xlt...
what i did was exactly this....
filled the resevoir with fluid
pumped for about five minutes
held the clutch pedal half way down
person on bottom loosend bleeder valve
i then slowly pressed the clutch pedal all the way down
he then tightend the bleeder valve.
I released the clutch pedal slowly
toped off the fluid once again.
pumped for about 2 minutes and repeated the above process twice...
i then pumped clutch pedal and held it down to the floor and person on botton loosend bleeder valve and we repeated this process twice.
problem solved and one hellava 5 speed once again.,
thanks
Only difference was at the end when we pumped the clutch, held and bled, we continued to repeat until the fluid coming out of the bleeder was clear - it was white-ish for three or four times - indicating air in the fluid. After the fluid ran clear for two bleeds, we finished and its working great!!
________________________________________
1991 xlt 4.0 5speed 4x4
Help, I just put new clutch master cylinder on but I cannot get the wire harness back on the master shaft so truck will not start. Does anyone know how to make my truck start without this harness on the shaft which wires do I have to join to bypass this clutch in to start.My truck is a 1996 Ford Ranger
Had clutch, master and slave cylinder replace on 1993 Ford Explorer Sport 4WD replaced. Clutch goes to floor and shifting is not possible. How do you bench bleed the master clutch cyclinder and then also bleed MC in place?
I just replaced a Slave Cylinder in my 1991 xlt...
what i did was exactly this....
filled the resevoir with fluid
pumped for about five minutes
held the clutch pedal half way down
person on bottom loosend bleeder valve
i then slowly pressed the clutch pedal all the way down
he then tightend the bleeder valve.
I released the clutch pedal slowly
toped off the fluid once again.
pumped for about 2 minutes and repeated the above process twice...
i then pumped clutch pedal and held it down to the floor and person on botton loosend bleeder valve and we repeated this process twice.
problem solved and one hellava 5 speed once again.,
thanks
________________________________________
1991 xlt 4.0 5speed 4x4
I just replaced a Slave Cylinder in my 1991 xlt...
what i did was exactly this....
filled the resevoir with fluid
pumped for about five minutes
held the clutch pedal half way down
person on bottom loosend bleeder valve
i then slowly pressed the clutch pedal all the way down
he then tightend the bleeder valve.
I released the clutch pedal slowly
toped off the fluid once again.
pumped for about 2 minutes and repeated the above process twice...
i then pumped clutch pedal and held it down to the floor and person on botton loosend bleeder valve and we repeated this process twice.
problem solved and one hellava 5 speed once again.,
thanks
________________________________________
1991 xlt 4.0 5speed 4x4
I just replaced a Slave Cylinder in my 1991 xlt...
what i did was exactly this....
filled the resevoir with fluid
pumped for about five minutes
held the clutch pedal half way down
person on bottom loosend bleeder valve
i then slowly pressed the clutch pedal all the way down
he then tightend the bleeder valve.
I released the clutch pedal slowly
toped off the fluid once again.
pumped for about 2 minutes and repeated the above process twice...
i then pumped clutch pedal and held it down to the floor and person on botton loosend bleeder valve and we repeated this process twice.
problem solved and one hellava 5 speed once again.,
thanks
________________________________________
1991 xlt 4.0 5speed 4x4
This works well just jack up the back of the truck to get the master cylinder level because it is on a 45 degree angle. This will stop the air bubbles
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I used to work in a shop, and many times we would get hydraulic clutches that would not bleed out all the air.
We would bleed them manually, and then pump the crap out of them for 5 or ten minutes. When you pump them up and down like that for an extended period of time, all the little air bubbles work their way up and out!! No need to disassemble any thing, no need to loosen anything. Just get in there and pump your clutch pedal.
Nowadays I do appliance repair Ogden Utah, so I'm kinda out of the loop on mechanic stuff. I do remember this trick though. I learned it from a friend who worked in a clutch/tranny shop, and then came and worked at our shop, bringing a whole bunch cool tips and tricks with him.
. Anyway, it's been too cold and rainy the past few days to work on it. So maybe I'll get it all straightened out this weekend. The tips and tricks on this site are extremely helpful!!
