question running 32's

[kurant045]

Currently I'm running 31's with about a two inch lift from add a leafs in the back and longer springs in the front. I was thinking about putting in a 3" body lift, since I cant afford the 5.5" suspension lift I want.
My question is: if I put in the 3" body lift, will 32's run nicely without any rubbing? and if so will I need to do any changes to my gears for that size tire? Oh and my explorer is a 92 xlt 4x4. Any responses will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Robert

 

[Gofast]

Robert,

I just bought some 33 X 12.5's on 15 X 10 rims. Discount tires mounted a 33 on a 15 X 8 rim and checked for clearance front and back. Then they put a 15 X 10 rim with 33" tire and checked it for clearence front and back. A good tire shop that wants your business will trial fit a single wheel for you to make sure it works for you.

My 31s did not rub on my 94 XLT at all UNTIL..I put the 5.5" lift kit on the truck. The swaybar started rubbing then. The 33's don't rub now due to the offset of the rim. Trial and error on the fit. Rubbing depends somewhat on your truck and how the suspension is, so do a trial fit.

BTW, save for the lift if you can. Everything works better in the long run.

------------------
Rob Robertson
94 XLT 4X4 4 door
5.5" Superlift,RS9000s,Warn manual hubs,31 X 11.5's
"Take the road less traveled, surprise a Jeep"

 

[kurant045]

Thanks for your help Rob
I also run 15x10 rims with my 31's. I'll definetly do a trial, but I've read on this board that if you go with 33's you have to change the gears. Is that correct? I mean is it a must or is it just much better. Also how is the truck riding with the 5.5" Super lift? That is the lift I originally wanted to get. But it just seems like a lot of money. The lift alone isn't that bad, but then the labor, because I wouldn't do it myself plus all the other things I would have to change add up. Your explorer must look really nice with those 33's now. Do you have a picture? Also if you don't mind me asking What did your total cost come out to in putting in the lift? I mean everything that you had to change.
Thanks in advance,
RObert

 

[CAsplorin]

For your question about the 5.5 superlift I think that my truck rides better than stock. It is not bouncy like it was before with the stock shocks, and not too firm. I paid $2,300 for the lift, super runner steering, and extented radius arms, and Rancho RS9000 shocks.
T.J. Cotta
94'xlt w/ 5.5 in superlift

 

[Gofast]

TJ, sounds like we have similar set-ups. But I have to ask, what are extended radius arms? Is that the drop bracket for the radius arms or are they in the stock location and custom built extentions like some others I've read about?

BTW, Are you a Sharks fan?

Robert, I got your mail, hope I answered a few of your questions.

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Rob Robertson
94 XLT 4X4 4 door
5.5" Superlift,RS9000s,Warn manual hubs,31 X 11.5's
"Take the road less traveled, surprise a Jeep"

 

[tdavis]

The 5.5" superlift basically comes in three forms:

Basic kit (level 1) - 5.5" lift brackets, springs, and spring-over-axle conversion kit for rear. Includes new drop down brackets for RAB's. (the two steel arms that extend back from the front axle)

Level 2 - Same as level1, except replacement radius arms. Longer radius arms gives the front end more travel. (draw an arc with a short string - now length the string, and you can draw a straighter arc now. longer radius arms means the front axle moves straighter when longer drop brackets are installed.) You remove the old radius arms, mount points, and install new radius arms & mount points. This one makes you grind off at least 4 more rivets.

Level 3 - Level 1 & 2, except you now add Superrunner steering - you replace your steering pitman arm, tie rods/drag links. Cuts down the severe angle that the 5.5" lift puts on the stock steering components. With this kit, it's the easiest of the three to align and keep align.

Level 1 is the cheapest, 2 costs more, and 3 is the most expensive. I've done level3 - and it makes the ride mucho better than stock!

Hope this makes sense! If not, ask anyone at Moab about it.

------------------
Thomas Davis
93 Mazda Navajo/5.5" superlift, 33x12.5 BFG AT/KO
4.56 gears/lockright/auburn pro

 

[ExplorerEB96]

Robert

Im fairly sure that you have 410 gears and should be ok with the 33's you want to run..but get with someone from a shop or check the manual or the dealership to find out what your truck has... but yes 410 gears will run those 33's just fine.. not sluggish or anything

 

[Dignan]

Check the VIN# sticker on your driver's door. There is an axle code, look that code up in your owner's manual. 4.10 would run 33s nicely, but my truck, for example, only has 3.55, so it would be very luggish and I would lose alot of power and gas mileage without regearing. 3.73 would be OK, but hopefully you do have the 4.10. I think that would work the best for you.

------------------
If everybody is different, how can anyone be normal?

91 Explorer XLT
4.0L OHV V6

 

[FROADER]

Robert I also have a '92 xlt 4x and i have a 4" Trailmaster lift with 33's and no rubbing at all. Gears wise, depending if you do a lot of wheelin' I have 4.56 strange gears(3k RPM in OD and I'm only going about 70). If you don't go wheelin' a lot i would recomend 4.27 gears, they are closeest to stock ratio with 32's. Anyway, 32's shouldn't rub at all with your 2" susp. and 3" body at all. Hope you're happy with whatever you decide.

Colin "Fenderguy" Ignacio

'92 xlt 4x4 - 4" Trailmaster - 33" BFG All-terrains - MagnaFlo cat back - K&N cone filter

 

[CAsplorin]

Hey Colin,
where did you get those fenders that are on the fornt of your truck. Those are awesome.

BTW: Gofast. I sure am a sharks fan. Been to about 7 games this season. I really wanted those hard to find playoff tickets.

TJ Cotta
94xlt w/ 5.5in Superlift