Raduis Arm Bushing Expert?

[IgotTwo]

My 94 (stock) has been beating me up the last few weeks. grrrrrrr

Now, I have a “shift clunk” coming from up front and the radius arm bushings don’t look so round when looking at em from behind…at least the one without the shield.

I checked around and have opted for the rivet method.
I have not started yet ..just making parts list

To any and all experts:
I read a tip to “double up” on the bushing cup washers……

I’m not sure if I get it…… put a one additional cup washer on the rear of each bushing?
So I need two extra cups washers?

I guess? so the cup washers stay stiffer against the bushing ... keeping em "true and tight" against the bushing?

Or am I chasing a "mod" thing?
Any help would be great!
Thanks

 

[mrboyle]

It shouldn't be necessary to "double up" on the washers.

 

[Chris Miller]

Seems to be a very common problem, I'v found that replaceing the bushings with stock rubber ones are better then the poly bushings. Just be sure to tighten nut to specs. (100lb) May want to double check that spec.
Double washers are only a temp. fix.

GOOD LUCK.

 

[IgotTwo]

Thanks for the get backs .......

Sometimes these things are like chasing down urban legends ...some are not.

Get the goggles... I'm ready for the sparks to start flying (ie rivets)
haha

I hope this cruiser is going to be nice to me for a little while.

 

[410Fortune]

Dont forget to stop by Ford and but two new nylon spacers, they are like $2 ea and you mine as well replace them now, your are probably split anyways...

The job is not that hard. Make sure you use grade 8 hardware to replace the rivets.

Also with the grinder you can simply cut the head off the rivet and punch it through. the key to this is to have the weight off of the truck (Jack stands on the frame)

 

[Maniak]

Different kits come with different parts...

Most kits come with the bushings and the nylon parts.
Some kits come with a new heat shield. If yours doesn't you can get it from most auto parts stores. It is a "moog" problem solver part.

As for the double washer. I do that on our Explorer. It does make it easier to take up the extra slack. It also moves the axle forward a little. It also allow me to tighten down the RA nut more as it won't bottom out now like it could before if my bushings were starting to go.

Here is a pic of where I put my double washer.

BTW.. my bushings look different becuase I now have a set of Moog Adjustable Caster Radius arm bushings. I like that I can change my caster (to set the caster the same on both sides) but I don't like that when they are new they do cut down on my suspension travel and they dont' last me as long. I get about 9 months out of a set of the adjustable bushigns (thats about 30k miles)

~Mark

 

[IgotTwo]

Thanks guys …..I think I know how it feels to be a downed pilot hearing the choppers over the horizon… or at least to know the batteries in my radio are working.

WIP - Thoughts for others?
Rivet Method:
I have all of but one. Have NO FEAR about these bad boys!!!! They are annoying and take time but:

I used the graduating drill size, chop a little and then grind method. Taking a bath in sparks was not my first choice and..... the driver’s side? …….the gas line was bothering me.

I did start grinding with a die grinder........it was slow... then! Hello!! DUH!!!! (thinking)
Get as much of the material out of there as you can without grinding!

tools: an electric drill and a fist full of drills, a manly hammer (sledge) and a sharp chisel (i.e. no air tools)

I center punched the rivets. On the driver's side, there are "some things" in the way. so you are going to be coming in on a little angle with the drill. No problemo!

I used graduating sized drills, ending up with a pretty large sized drill (you can pick the point where you feel comfortable with what your drill can handle) I have a big chunked one ...stubby drills are helpful

Worried about going too deep? even on an angle and with a big drill? Look up!!!!!!
Know exacting where you are by eyeballing the depth of the whole with a vertical "look up" i.e. from below the rivet...LOOK UP!......don't be lazy! .... get under there. Why screw up a simple job? haha.

You end up with a nice whole in the center of the rivet. I got a chisels…as in - flat …as in - sharp! … as in - “sharp as a knife!!!!!!” (a Brian Adams thing?) … dull tools don't work well ..... and my "Moby hammer”

You can chip out from the center and remove most of the "material” with out breaking your arm hammering or getting every dog in the neighborhood barking.
(that was the plan!)

I needed to grind a little afterwards but: with my chisel, I used the flat SHARP side of the chisel to FLOAT against the bracket to slice off what was left of the rivet head.. with easy.. Life is good!

Getting things off?
I did had enough sense to realize this, but didn’t ask Grrrrrrrr I might have to do some repositioning to make my easier…now that the rivets are out.

Q: Where do I want to be to drop the arms?
Jacked on the frame with the wheels on the ground to relieve the arm stress? with just enouigh room to get under there and remove the rest?
I have an extra jack and more stands.

Thanks again for all the help

 

[410Fortune]

Just jack it up from the frame, both sides at the same time...not abig deal.

It takes all of 3 minutes to cut the head off a rivet flush with the frame using a 4" electric grinder.......the drill method is tedious and takes too long.
I believe I used a 1/2 drill bit to bore out the holes to match my 1/2" grade 8 hardware. Spray the whole frame rail with paint prior to re-assembly to avoid surface rust.

You may consider an alignment when you are done.....

Spark baths = regular thing.

You dont want those grindings to hit any other cars however, especially the glass. fuel line is fine, wrap a rag around it if you are worried about it......

 

[IgotTwo]

Thanks,
I do appreciate the help ......
The drill method IS tedious...drilling out to 1/2 inch?.... why not? a good one

....but the driver's side through me a little because I could not come in straight on with the drill. Maybe if I took the time to move the brake cable?

I have a 4 1/2 grinder but I didn't feel in control with that. It seems to have a mind of its own sometimes it can get out from under you. I have to use it more.

Yeah, I can be a little too cautious at times......I used wet rags like the guys had mentioned, fire ext. and I always have a spray bottle of water around when ever I'm working. Might have to do with I'm always working alone.
Alignment was not often mentioned in the stuff I read... but any good one.

The job is not a big deal but like everything else ....you got do it once!

note : My eyes did glaze over when I first realized
"I gotta remove those RIVETS!" hahaha


Thanks again for all the help

 

[410Fortune]

Are you kidding me? This was a huge job! I had never done anything like it before, but I was sure glad I did. Since then I have cut every single rivet on my frame, except for two crossmembers that never need to be....

Spray wd-40 on there often, especially with the drill method, it will save your bits and cut easier......

The grinder is the best tool there is............I use it more on my truck for stuff like this then any other tool........

 

[IgotTwo]

Well I can only speak for myself.

In hindsight:
If Ford had put bolts instead of those blankity blank rivets and after I got better oriented, this would have been a no brainer! just busy work.
It would have helped if I was more skillful with my 4 1/2in grinder and didn't worry so much about sparks.... as - in and around the gas line! Ah! so I'm a whimp!

You want huge? haha
I went to a friend's last weekend who thinks he going to restore a GTO that looks like it kept the Titantic company for the last 35 years ...but its a convertible!!!!!
A poster car for rustoleum!

Beside being nuts...that's huge!!!!!! hahaha

thanks again!

 

[IgotTwo]

I guess it is a good thing to take things to completion:

I'd like to thank everyone again for ther help and moral support. The radius arm bushings really tighten ride and I'm very happy I replaced them.

FYI - I started out with a big clunk and after replacing the bushings I ended up with a slight clunk.

Tightening the U-joint bolt at the rear end took care of the rest.

I DID "look" at them, shook the drive shift and thought they were tight.

till I put a wrench to them... they were NOT tight....they ARE now tight.

Something to keep in mind? If you "are under there" checking.

 

[bronx explorer]

ok guys im going to do this on saturday so can you tell me what size bolts and hard wear to use thanks

 

[IgotTwo]

Bolts
7/16 #5
3 - 1 1/4" long,
1 - about 3/4" long.

the shorty will save you much grief