Rail Dust Removal

Hello all...

Looking for a little help on how to remove rail dust. I have an 06 explorer that is white pearl in color. I regularly drive to the UP of Michigan where they use locally mined sand on the roads in the winter. The problem with this is the UP is know as big iron country due to the high iron content in the area. Bottom line is my vehicle looks like crap. Little rust spots all over, you can even see them on the black plastic of the running boards etc. My vehicle is hand washed regularly and waxed with a carnuba wax about every 3 months, it has been 4 months since I last had it done. I have a great local detail shop that does all of my waxing for me, I can't beat his price.

The detail shop said he is going to clay bar the vehicle to remove the rail dust and he uses some type of spray with the clay bar to neutalize the rust. Where I normally only pay $50 for a complete exterior detail from him, wash, machine wax, clean wheel wells, wheels, etc with better results than I get with 5 or 6 hours of work... this will be substantially more to remove the rail dust - $100. So my questions are 1) is he removing the rail dust the right way and 2) how hard would it be for me to do it myself? What is the best way to remove the rail dust and is there a way to prevent it from sticking in the future?

Thanks for the help

 

[Flounder]

I am not sure of what solution he uses to neutralize rust while claying the vehicle. I used Google and could not find anything that comes close to a lubricant that is commonly used with clay. Personally, I have no idea what he is talking about, but if you find out, I'd be interested in learning about it.

As for a clay bar, you can puchase one at at most retail automotive parts/accessory stores, as well as online. Usually, a clay kit will cost between $12 and $20, depending on the manufacturer. Clay Magic, my favorite, is often on the cheaper end of the spectrum, and Meguiar's is on more expensive end. (Meguiar's clay is identical to Mother's, by the way--don't be fooled by price.)

The process is simple enough. See Autopia's article "How to Clean Your Paint with Clay": http://guidetodetailing.com/articles.php?articleId=14. In short, make sure you wash the surface well and keep the clay lubricated either with the spray that comes with the clay, or a mix of about a teaspoon/capful of car wash detergent and 12-15 ounces of water in a spray bottle. I do the latter.

In all honesty, if you have a competent detailer who will do the entire exterior--claying included--for $100, I'd go with him. To do it yourself, you will need to wash then clay. Clay strips off wax, so assuming you want to wax, you'll have to do that, too. Claying is a tedious process--imagine washing your Explorer with a two-inch sponge with an extreme eye to not pushing too hard and scratching your finish. Though I do a lot of my own detailing, for $100 (and, as I think you indicated, that seems to include the normal exterior works--wash, buff/polish/wax, plus the other stuff--wheels, wells, and so on), I'd easily hand off the job to someone else--especially if they are competent and trustworthy. (For comparison's sake, that exterior job down here in Philly would run about $200.)

 

[bojans]

Found this doing a search, looks like it is covered by in the standard warranty

TSB
04-9-6
BODY - PAINT - IRON PARTICLE REMOVAL - INDUSTRIAL FALLOUT - ACID RAIN NEUTRALIZATION
Publication Date: May 4, 2004

FORD:
2004-2005 CROWN VICTORIA, ESCORT ZX2, FOCUS, MUSTANG, TAURUS, THUNDERBIRD
2005 FIVE HUNDRED, FORD GT
2004-2005 ECONOLINE, ESCAPE, EXCURSION, EXPEDITION, EXPLORER SPORT TRAC, EXPLORER, F SUPER DUTY, FREESTAR, RANGER, F SERIES, F-650, F-750
LINCOLN:
2004-2005 LS, TOWN CAR, AVIATOR, NAVIGATOR
MERCURY:
2004-2005 GRAND MARQUIS, SABLE
2005 MONTEGO
2004-2005 MONTEREY, MOUNTAINEER
2005 MARINER

This article supersedes TSB 99-12-10 to update the vehicle lines, model years and service procedure.

ISSUE:

Ford Motor Company has released a private labeled material to be used for iron particle/acid rain service repairs.

ACTION:

To remove these particles/contaminates, use ONLY the following Motorcraft products and procedure. No polishing, compounding, color sanding, or repainting should be done before this procedure is performed. This procedure uses products that are acidic, alkaline, and neutral and must be properly mixed and used in their specific order. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE


NOTE: ANY CHANGES TO THIS PROCEDURE WILL CAUSE AN INCOMPLETE OR UNSATISFACTORY REPAIR. THE USE OF ANY OTHER PRODUCT OR PROCEDURE MAY CAUSE DAMAGE TO ALUMINUM OR PAINTED SURFACES.


NOTE: THE PRODUCTS USED TO REMOVE SURFACE CONTAMINATION FROM PAINT ARE DESIGNED FOR VEHICLES, WHICH HAVE EXPERIENCED EXPOSURE FOR LESS THAN 120 DAYS. VEHICLES THAT EXCEED 120 DAYS OF EXPOSURE MAY REQUIRE THE PROCEDURE BE REPEATED TO RESOLVE THE CONCERN. ONCE THIS PROCEDURE IS COMPLETED, IT MAY BE NECESSARY TO PERFORM POLISHING OR REFINISHING PROCEDURES AFTER VEHICLE INSPECTION.


IDENTIFICATION


Ferrous metal particles (hot iron dust) are generated by manufacturing facilities, rail shipments, etc. Moisture and heat combine with particles to create a chemical reaction. This reaction creates an acid, causing the iron to corrode and etch into the paint surface. Additionally, industrial fallout and acid rain generate corrosive compounds that fall on the vehicle's painted surfaces. When subjected to moisture and temperature, chemical compounds are created that etch the paint surface. To assist in identifying surface contamination, use a (Tandy-Radio Shack #63-851) 30x lighted magnifier.

CONCERN DESCRIPTION


Ferrous Metal


Light Colored Vehicles: Small orange stains the size of "mechanical pencil lead." The surface is rough to the touch.
Dark Colored Vehicles: Small white or silver appearing dots with a rainbow ring around the dot. The surface is rough to the touch.
Industrial Fallout


Water spots containing ferrous metal are present and the surface is rough to the touch.
Acid Rain/Etching


Surface will exhibit irregular discolored spotting.
Dark colored vehicles may exhibit cloudy or graying spots where the acid has begun to etch the paint.
Extreme cases of etching may be felt.
DECONTAMINATION PROCEDURE


Use Motorcraft Acid Neutralizer, Alkaline Neutralizer, and Detail Wash to decontaminate and neutralize the paint surface. Perform the procedure only on vehicle when the paint surface temperature is cool. Follow the step-by-step procedure listed below to perform this service operation.

Rinse off dust, dirt, and debris with cold water. Flush liberally.
Prepare Motorcraft Acid Neutralizer by mixing eight (8) parts of water to one (1) part Acid Neutralizer in a bucket.
Wear gloves and use a clean wash mitt to apply mixture of Motorcraft Acid Neutralizer to the entire vehicle starting at the top of the vehicle working toward the side. Work fast and keep the vehicle wet with solution, lightly agitating and moving quickly around the vehicle repeatedly for five to seven (5-7) minutes. For vehicles with severe conditions, work the product for up to eight (8) minutes.
NOTE: USE A SEPARATE MITT FOR EACH PRODUCT. DO NOT INTERMIX MITTS.


Rinse the vehicle thoroughly with cold water to remove Motorcraft Acid Neutralizer.
Dry only the horizontal surfaces of the vehicle at this time. Do not dry glass.
NOTE: MOTORCRAFT ALKALINE NEUTRALIZER IS READY TO USE. DO NOT MIX WITH WATER. DO NOT SPRAY MOTORCRAFT ALKALINE NEUTRALIZER ON THE PAINTED SURFACE.


Pour the Alkaline Neutralizer into a dispenser (squirt bottle). Squirt the neutralizer directly onto a clean wash mitt. Apply the product to the vehicle, keeping the areas wet and lightly agitated for five to seven (5-7) minutes. For vehicles with severe conditions, work the product for up to eight (8) minutes.
Rinse the vehicle thoroughly with cold water.
Prepare Motorcraft Detail Wash by mixing 29.5 mL (1 ounce) of Detail Wash to 3.7 L (1 gallon) of water.
Shampoo the vehicle with Motorcraft Detail Wash using a clean wash mitt. Rinse the vehicle with cold water and dry the vehicle completely.
SURFACE CORRECTION FOLLOWING DECONTAMINATION/NEUTRALIZATION


Visually inspect paint surface for evidence of removal of ferrous metal particles and water spots.
NOTE: ACID RAIN DISCOLORING OR ETCHING WILL REQUIRE ADDITIONAL PROCEDURES DEPENDENT ON DEPTH OF DAMAGE; POLISHING, BUFFING, COLOR SANDING, OR IN EXTREME CASES, REFINISHING.


DO NOT intermix buffing products. Use only one manufacturer's products.
Always follow the manufacturer's product usage sequence. Use the appropriate recommended pad at recommended buffing speeds as specified by the product manufacturer.
NOTE: WHEN ATTEMPTING TO AFFECT A REPAIR BY BUFFING, POLISHING, OR COLOR SANDING, DO NOT REMOVE AN EXCESS OF 0.3 MIL OF PAINT FILM OR REFINISHING WILL BE REQUIRED. USE OF AN ELECTRONIC MIL GAUGE (ROTUNDA 164-R4025) IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED TO INSURE CONTROL OF PAINT FILM REMOVAL.


Use a dual action sander with a Velcro backing plate and foam pad to fine polish and remove any swirls created by a rotary buffer or pad.
Use an alcohol and water mixture (1 to 1 ratio) to clean the buffed areas and to verify removal of scratches and swirls before application of the final polish.

PART NUMBER PART NAME
ZC-1-A Motorcraft Acid Neutralizer
ZC-2-A Motorcraft Alkaline Neutralizer
ZC-3-A Motorcraft Detail Wash
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES:

NONE

WARRANTY STATUS:

Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage

NOTE: The information in Technical Service Bulletins is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge, tools, and equipment to do the job properly and safely. It informs these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or provides information that could assist in proper vehicle service. The procedures should not be performed by "do-it-yourselfers". Do not assume that a condition described affects your car or truck. Contact a Ford, Lincoln, or Mercury dealership to determine whether the Bulletin applies to your vehicle. Warranty Policy and Extended Service Plan documentation determine Warranty and/or Extended Service Plan coverage unless stated otherwise in the TSB article. The information in this Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) was current at the time of printing. Ford Motor Company reserves the right to supercede this information with updates. The most recent information is available through Ford Motor Company's on-line technical resources.

Copyright © 2004 Ford Motor Company

 

[MONMIX]

I am a big fan of Zaino products.

Super easy to apply, very long lasting and amazing results.
Just look at the factory origonal paint on my 2000 Explorer.

 

[cgriffin_5139]

I am a big fan of Zaino products.

Super easy to apply, very long lasting and amazing results.
Just look at the factory origonal paint on my 2000 Explorer.

whats the car behind youon the right

 

[MONMIX]

civic I think
That was some time last year, I dont recall what was st the shop then.
Or do you mean the Tiberon ?

 

[Jason94sport]

Yeah Zaino claybar & some elbow grease should fix it up. It's made for that. I see no need to pay someone to do it.

 

[toypaseo]

I see a silver Camry on the right.