Rear Drivers Side shock lower... | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

Rear Drivers Side shock lower...

mediaman67

Member
Joined
December 9, 2007
Messages
26
Reaction score
0
City, State
Leominster, MA
Year, Model & Trim Level
96 Sport
Hi All

have a 96 sport 4.0

I noticed that the shock on the drivers side looks a lower than the one on the passinger side - is there a top bracket for where the top of the shock is connected that may have come apart, etc?

love to see how it's supposed to attach, and if Im dealing with a rust issue here or what - the truck seems tight still, but just wanted opinions on it...

Ideas?

Thanks
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





You mean the truck is leaning to the left?
this is common. The battery, fuel tank and driver are all on the same side of the truck causing a great ballast offset.

In other words you have the gansta lean goin on.

ways to fix it vary, however could be one of these things worn.

sway bar bushings and endlinks. On a properly set up explorer ( 2nd gen) you'll notice the driver side sway bar endlink is about 2" lower than the passenger side endlink. This is to help overcome the imbalance. Since the swaybar has constant twist force on it these bushings will wear very quickly.
Some members swap the leaf springs from side to side, and for some it works, others have to do the swaybar maintenance also.

Now to further complicate things, if the driver side torsion bar adjuster is "adjusted" for more height, the passenger side rear will come down. If the passenger side adjuster bolt is turned in for height, the driver side rear will come down.

I would go with new sway bar bushings on the axle and new endlinks first, since these are the normal wear items.

If you do have to go the leaf spring swap route it would be best to install new 4 door leafs, new leaf bracket pads, and new ubolts.



The rear shocks do nothing for support of the truck. You could take them out and the truck would still be the same ride height as before.
 






^ Exactly, perfect explanation. Here's proof of the driver side end link mounted lower.
gnUEbs1.jpg


Sames as right side. Double SS nuts are where I bolted the rubber bed mat down through existing ST drain holes.
Those driver side upper shock bolts are fun reaching aren't they? 13mm swivel head Gearwrench is the tool of choice.
xB2yNGl.jpg
 






^ Exactly, perfect explanation. Here's proof of the driver side end link mounted lower.
gnUEbs1.jpg


Sames as right side. Double nutted SS nuts are where I bolted the rubber bed mat down through existing ST drain holes.
Those driver side upper shock bolts are fun reaching aren't they? 13mm swivel head Gearwrench is the tool of choice.
xB2yNGl.jpg

Steve, I hope you knew to put anti-seize on the SS bolts before putting the nuts on. If you don't they gall and you'll never get them off again w/out breaking the bolts. I learned this lesson the hard way.
 












You mean the truck is leaning to the left?
this is common. The battery, fuel tank and driver are all on the same side of the truck causing a great ballast offset.

No, the truck doesn't lean - I meant that only the shock is lower, it's closer to the ground than the pass side, almost like something is broken where it would mount to at the top

I have a photo of it, but won't let me upload it....
 


















I did, after learning about stainless galling from YOU. Man that stuff is messy, lots of paint thinner and paper towels. LOL
Thanks Phil. :dpchug:

These are the bolts I used. Very hard to find ultra low profile SS bolts of this size and length.
http://www.windstormproducts.com/3-8-16-x-2-18-8-stainless-steel-sidewalk-bolts-sold-individually/

I've never seen a bolt like that, but my hardware store has SS button-head Allen bolts, and yes, anti-seize is super messy stuff for sure.
 






Oh wow. You need to park that until it's fixed.

You need new lower shock mount pads and u bolts.

1 each for right and left side. 4 u bolts with nuts

look here in 1995-2001 rear suspension- items 2 (4) and 3 (1 of each side)

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fex/full.aspx?Page=66

You will need to support the weight of the truck by the frame, tires just barely off the ground. Cut the old u bolts off. You might need to replace the lower shock bolts also if they are rusted and seized.
 






Oh wow. You need to park that until it's fixed.

You need new lower shock mount pads and u bolts.

1 each for right and left side. 4 u bolts with nuts

look here in 1995-2001 rear suspension- items 2 (4) and 3 (1 of each side)

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fex/full.aspx?Page=66

You will need to support the weight of the truck by the frame, tires just barely off the ground. Cut the old u bolts off. You might need to replace the lower shock bolts also if they are rusted and seized.

-------------
Thanks so much Jon! - but Im a little confused on the assembly - the U Joints (2) basically attach those lower shock mount plate to the bottom of the leaf spring, but how would the shock attach to that plate? - sorry if I sound slow on this, etc.

Is it easier to take the rear wheel off? (I don't have a lift) - Also, I guess you are recommending to do both sides now, even if the other side is ok, as it's the same age, etc...

I also have another question for you - I need the lower steering shaft replaced - from where it connects to the rack, as the u joints are really getting loose now and the wheel has way too much play in it to be safe. - do you have a diagram for that, and a place where I can get it? (dealer can't get it anymore)

Double Thanks :-)
 


















Featured Content

Back
Top