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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
Thanks!
In my frustration I started looking around the garage and behold! An old can of Johnson's paste wax. I threw out the wax, and cut around the inner rim of the lid making a double strength ridge. The can was almost perfect, it got the seal on but it was a one time use deal.
You are correct. For such a simple tool it is unreasonable to spend over 100.00
BTW
Measurements are 4.25" od 3.75" ID and 2" deep would work perfect. All that is needed is a chunk of 4.25" pipe with a backer welded to the end.
A piece of pvc pipe might work, but you do have to hit it with something from the center so it would need a cap also. It would also need to be perfectly "square" cut.
What about using a metal pipe cap (black or galvanized metal) or a metal electrical box cover plate? You could drill holes in it then insert bolts to press it in without hitting it. Is the correct tool an OTC 7786?
What about using a metal pipe cap (black or galvanized metal) or a metal electrical box cover plate? You could drill holes in it then insert bolts to press it in without hitting it. Is the correct tool an OTC 7786?
what about a pcv or metal grease-trap piece of the approx diameter the kind with the screw-in/on cover? i'm sure there's something in the Home Depot plumbing isle that would work.
Ok, this is getting even weirder. I had asked a local metal fab guy to make one. He said he would try to whip it out Monday but never got back with me. Just now on FB he asked why I never picked it up yesterday.
Anyway, after checking fitment I will either use as a forum loaner or try to sell it on ebay and have more made. He said it took less than 10 minutes to make.
I was looking at the tool that you seat the seal on a thin walled pilot diameter, then it is slid over the crank and drawn in with two bolts.
I have access to a lathe and some limited amount of material and figured it would not be too big of chore to whiddle one out.
If you were to install via the tapping method, I would think pretty much anything with good enough diameters and a reasonable flatness would do.