Rear quarter window replacement. | Ford Explorer Forums

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Rear quarter window replacement.

bdixon1

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April 21, 2010
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City, State
BC
Year, Model & Trim Level
95 sport
hey guys,

my girls 95 explorer 2dr rear passenger quarter window (cargo area) got smashed out by a crackhead. awesome fun, her pops picked up another one from the wreckers, just wondering if anyone has replaced one of these themselves?

thanks guys
 



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remove the trim panel, or pull it back far enough that you can get in there with a wrench or socket. there will be some nuts that you will need to remove, i think they are 8mm or 10mm. when you have them all out, you might have to take a knife and cut between the frame of the window, and pinch weld on the body (they bolt them in from factory, and use butyl tape to seal it). when you have it out, clean any of the gunk left behind off the pinch weld. when you go to put the new window in make sure the mating surface has no gunk on it as well. you can use urethane or butyl, and put it on the matting surface of the window (you will need that so it will seal back up). line the window back up into the bolt holes, and put the nuts back on. make sure they are tight, but don't crank them (just snug). that's it, very easy.
 












if you go to get one out of a junkyard a earlier sport window will fit. just has a bit different molding on it.
 






I think all the windows are the same for 2 or 4 door. Just the tint is different.
 






Do you need to silicon the new window up again or just bolt it?
 






I think originally it was just bolted in, but as the plastic/vinyl piece that sealed the window is now old and dry, a small bead of silicon couldn't hurt IMO.
 












I have a leak at the middle top of the driver side rear cargo (quarter) window whenever I wash the car or have a heavy down pour of rain.

Should I unbolt then pry off the seal from the inside or outside? And with when tool do I use to pry with?
 






I have a leak at the middle top of the driver side rear cargo (quarter) window whenever I wash the car or have a heavy down pour of rain.

Should I unbolt then pry off the seal from the inside or outside? And with when tool do I use to pry with?

I personally just unbolted it, leaving a few around it slightly threaded on, then pushed on one side with my legs, then the other. However it was extremely sketchy. Do it at your own risk.. Also, to start off, you can try to just tighten the bolts, I've heard some people have had success doing that.. Just be careful to not over tighten them.
 






Thank you!

Yes I did this today

Awaiting for it to rain whilst I am at work to test it out haha

Bloody explorers
 






I wonder how prone these bolts are to coming loose. I've developed a rattle in that area that has me stumped. Tweaked and fiddled with pretty much everything back there to try and find the rattle. Sounds like another panel removal..dammit..lol
 






It's not uncommon for these bolts to loosen up over time. When they to loosen up your first clue is usually a water leak, I've had to tighten the bolts on several of my trucks. IDK if the bolts requiring tightening is because they actually loosen up or because the trim/seal compresses.
 






The hard part is pushing the old glass out/off. The seal is strong, and it needs to be, so do leave the nuts still on a couple of threads. Go slow and be patient, pushing evenly will make it let go.

The seal does shrink over time, that's what causes most of those leaks. I had a leak in mine also, the 93 quarter glass from the truck I rebuilt in 1999. I put the two back in with a body shop guy, using 3M sealant. The same sealant failed on the windshield, likely from poor cleaning by the body shop. The windshield should have urethane, always use the best sealant that is available.

The next time I do the quarter glass pieces, I will add a thin bead of Ultra Black RTV just under the top edge outside. The main sealing area is a good ways below the top edge. There's plenty of width there to apply both the normal sealant and some RTV. I prefer the RTV for long term strength, it will remain pliable far longer than anything else. That should prevent any water leaks years later.
 






When I replaced mine, I used rope butyl I got from my local NAPA. I took note of where the factory butyl was, removed the old stuff with rubbing alcohol, let dry, and applied the new stuff. Just make sure the butyl rope is not too thick. The stuff I bought was, so parts of the window surround moulding did not sit flush with body when I install the glass. That was five years ago, so I'll have to take a look to see if it settled, and if the moulding sits flush...
 






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