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Rebuild AODE, only Second Gear

sexystang94

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April 19, 2008
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City, State
Deland, FL
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 Mustang
Hi guys, I just rebuilt my AODE with some help from this site in the above 4R70W rebuild diary. My husband helped me put the transmission back in and I took it for a drive today but it doesnt have anything but reverse and second gear.

Looking at the clutch and band application chart, that tells me that the reverse clutch and bands are working properly.

2nd in overdrive and manual second feel the same, so I dont know if the overdrive band is being applied. But, that tells me the intermediate and at least the forward clutch should be working.

I have done KOER and KOEO tests, and I have gotten the following codes:
668
632

Any ideas what I can do to fix it?
 



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Sorry to hear of your troubles. Let's start by you describing in some detail what all you did in the rebuild, starting with the condition of the tranny you rebuilt - pre-rebuild?

ps. your codes suggest something electrical going on potentially

632 - TCS not changing states
668 - TR sensor above maximum voltage

But lets walk ourselves through this. We won't let you fail. Have faith.
 






I might add, looking at the 93 on solenoid charts, a failed shift solenoid 1 (ss1) - meaning it is always OFF, will give you your symptoms. The codes suggest a wiring issue, check all your wiring, and connectors.... then we can talk about the shift solenoid pair and potential replacement. I suspect we have either a wiring issue, a TRS issue or a bad shift solenoid issue... pretty much in that order.

btw...Where are you located?
 






I might add, looking at the 93 on solenoid charts, a failed shift solenoid 1 (ss1) - meaning it is always OFF, will give you your symptoms. The codes suggest a wiring issue, check all your wiring, and connectors.... then we can talk about the shift solenoid pair and potential replacement. I suspect we have either a wiring issue, a TRS issue or a bad shift solenoid issue... pretty much in that order.

btw...Where are you located?

We were looking at that tonight. We traced the wiring harness coming up from the trans and found the connector. Then I pulled out the Chilton book with the wiring diagram and not much was making any sense when we put an ohm-meter on it. I tested all the solenoids for proper resistance before installing them into the case. I purchased new shift and EPC solenoids for the rebuild.

I have a spare MLPS from a 94 trans, maybe try that as a first approach?

We are in Florida, not far from Daytona Beach.
 






I think I'd try the spare MLPS first. I an a little confused about your code 632. That tends to implicate the shifter on the steering column.

I asked location because I was wondering if we could somehow put the Rotunda Transmission tester on it and replace everything electrical outboard from the actual trans with the tester and see how the trans itself works. This is a perfect case to use the tester.
 






late ps. Could a wiring harness have been damaged? You are doing it exactly how I would be doing it. Be slow and methodical.

late pps. Tell me about your rebuild?
 






I think I'd try the spare MLPS first. I an a little confused about your code 632. That tends to implicate the shifter on the steering column.

I asked location because I was wondering if we could somehow put the Rotunda Transmission tester on it and replace everything electrical outboard from the actual trans with the tester and see how the trans itself works. This is a perfect case to use the tester.
Ive looked for a Rotunda tester, cant find them anywhere!!!! I cant even find any trans shops around here with them.

late ps. Could a wiring harness have been damaged? You are doing it exactly how I would be doing it. Be slow and methodical.

late pps. Tell me about your rebuild?
Its possible the wiring harness could have been damaged, it wasnt handled roughly though.
Rebuild took us about two weeks, just being slow, checking everything multiple times. We ordered an alto performance master kit, and got the 8 pack direct clutch kit with kolenes. I also upgraded the reverse drum for the mechanical diode. I used the four clutch reverse, and four clutch intermediate. I drilled the front pump for the intermediate clutch lube. I used the Fairbanks valve body kit, which replaced the pressure regulator spring, the boost valve and sleeve, replaced the spring for the 2-3 back out valve, 3-4 capacity modulator valve spring, opened up a few of the holes on the seperator plate, Installed the 2-3 accumlator that came with the kit with no springs... kit has two sets of o-rings on the accumulator. Installed new springs on top of and below the 1-2 accumulator, replaced the overdrive servo with the supplied servo a large o-ringed lipseal servo.
 






Send me a PM and we can discuss a loan of the trans tester if you are interested.
 












I can't conjure up a way a bad convertor would have any effect on this issue.
 






What in the valve body could cause this to happen? I think Im going to be looking for a line pressure gauge to see what the pressures are.
 






I tested the resistance of all four solenoids at the PCM, everything appears to be within range.

EPC: 4.4 ohms
SS1: 20.9 ohms
SS2: 20.9 ohms
TCC: 1.6 ohms
 






Well the coils are intact then, but the solenoid itself could be stuck. You could just try replacing the shift solenoid pair, that is not a great way to fix things, but they are not particularly expensive.
 






Of course, that still leaves me wondering about your codes.... THAT I have yet to figure out.
 






Still working on this... I am going to throw a pressure tester on it next. Its been a hectic week with finals!
 






Rotunda tester will soon be on its way it looks like... standby all..
 






Well, I hooked up the rotunda tester, and get the exact same results.

I am also noticing a noise that changes with RPM, some type of whirring noise.

One question on using the Rotunda. I plugged it in to the speed sensor and trans harness plug. Everything checked out on resistance with it unplugged. Set to bench plugged in the EPC tests far higher, 210 ohms.

Everything else tests fine.

Shifter in D, nothing happens when I switch the gear on the tester.
 






Did you rebuild the valve body and or make any modifications to it?
 






Did you rebuild the valve body and or make any modifications to it?

Yes... transaction shift kit, replaced the 2/3 accumulator, changed springs on the 1/2 accumulator.

I did not drill the valve body, only the seperator plate.
 



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Yes... transaction shift kit, replaced the 2/3 accumulator, changed springs on the 1/2 accumulator.

I did not drill the valve body, only the seperator plate.

Ok this will sound like a dumb question-but were you extra careful to file all if the burrs after drilling the separator plate? I wonder if you have pressure loss and seepage due to a loose seal?
 






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