Replaced Starter Solenoid....still problems starting!!

[brian_slagle]

Last week I got in my explorer and it would not start. We jumped the solenoid and it started fine...so i went and replaced it...now every once in a while it gives me starting problems...the battery has been replaced recently..and now the solenoid but what else could it be...i got the chepo solenoid from Advance Auto Parts, could it be defective? All the gauges and lights come in when i go to start so i dont think its a power cable or anything. Any idea's?

 

[410Fortune]

WIRING

trust me on this.

Your truck has two starer solenoids.
The main line one on the fender and one built into the starter.
this is why your starter has two + wires going to it, one directly from the + battery and one from the solenoid.

First check for 11.5-12V+ at the red/l blue wire at the main solenoid when the key is turned to the start position.
This is the key telling the starter solenoid to click.

If you have 11.5 volts or more there move on.
I HIGHLY suggest replacing the wires that lead to the starter. both + wires, one is like 10 gage and the other is like 14.
the starter gets its ground from the engine block
so battery cables are important as well.


Very common for these wires/connections to fail.
The next step is to replace the solenoid on the starter/starer.

 

[CDW6212R]

Agreed, mostly. The actual cables and connections fail far more often then solenoids, starters, etc. Do a normal complete check of voltages(on/off), connections, and cables.
A bunch of people try to fix battery cables by cutting off the ends, and bolting on cheap replacements. You do have original battery terminals I hope? Good luck,

 

[brian_slagle]

I Have Replaced The Termianls A While Ago, And Recently Cleaned The Termanals To Get The Corrosion Off. The Wierd Part Is That It Was Would Only Start When I Bridged The Terminals On The Solenoid, Now That I Have Replaced It, It Works Sometimes And Doesent Other Times. I Am Going To Look Into The Wiring And See If There Is Any Problems There. The Only Thing With That Is I Have Never Had Any Power Problems, Everything Has Always Powered Up When I Turn The Key, Just Sometimes It Will Not Get Power To The Starter. But I Will Look Into The Cables And See If There Is A Problem There. Thanks For The Tips!

 

[CDW6212R]

So you have the battery terminals with two bolt clamps to attach the cables? If so, don't do anything else until those are replaced with better battery terminals.

The bolt on battery terminals do not transfer full power for any length of time. They seem to work fine when new. Sooner or later starter power becomes less and less, until there isn't enough. Cleaning them can help short term, but cable replacement is the only good solution. Regards,

 

[brian_slagle]

Thanks I Will Try Switching Those Out For The Better Ones.

 

[CDW6212R]

Good luck, glad we could help,

 

[410Fortune]

How do you type every word with a cap? weird.

Anyways you need to check for 11.5-12v at the solenoid when you turn the key to start.
I am guessing you have LESS that 12v, if so the problem is upstream.

Intermittant problems such as your almost always point to a bad wiring connection.
Check the wires are the starter.

 

[Mbrooks420]

A guy at work just had to replace the cable to his starter. I think I am going to upgrade all my wiring when I lay the truck up in the fall. The capitalized first letter is due to an ALL CAPS blocker

 

[CDW6212R]

May I suggest just adding sections of wire. Are you talking about the main wires, alternator wires, etc. I know companies/stereo people talk about replacing those sometimes. If you aren't building a high fidelity stereo, adding wires will be faster, cheaper, easier, and provide equal or better results.

I have a 99 chassis that will be a mail vehicle, and the ground battery cable was cut. I am going to replace that end with an eye, and connect it to the radiator support. I have already attached the other end to the frame. I will have a new ground cable made to connect the battery to my starter. For my added accessories I am going to add a power wire from the alternator to a solenoid terminal, where my added corcuits will pull power from.

Just add wires to help the circuits you are concerned about, using best quality ends. Good luck,

 

[brian_slagle]

Got it started last night

Went down to the mall where it was sitting and i got under the car and tapped on the body of the starter and it started right up. After I got it home I tried to start it up again and nothing, got back under the car and gave a little tap..tap.. fired right up. Does this usally mean the starter is going out. I am most likley going to pull it out on sat and have it tested. It looks like it is fairly east to get to but i wanted to see if anyone knows if this is a difficult process, cause if its too bad im going to try to replace the cable to it and see if theres any luck there, but a friend of mine said it is most likely the starter.

 

[410Fortune]

NO it means the starter solenoid on the starter is going bad or has a loose connection.
New starters are about $200-300
You can have yours rebuilt, but FIRST I would check the wiring.

Add wire? I dont get it. There are two wires that go from the solenoid and battery to the starter. Dont add new lengths to them, replace them with new wire and ends.
I solder everything, You can build your own cables at West Marine for a fraction of the cost of buying new battery specific cables.

 

[brian_slagle]

can you replace just the solenoid on the starter...it looks likes its just one piece...but i have been unable to find just that solenoid at the parts store...i have found reman ones for around $130 so i really dont mind replacing the whole thing, but if its just the solenoid on the starter then it would make more sense to just replace that...thats the smaller round cylinder right above the starter right? It does not look like a big project...but i dont want to just start replacing stuff untill it works...the shotgun treatment...

 

[410Fortune]

No this is a gear reduction starter, the round cylinder is part ofthe starter, not he solenoid.

TRhe solenoid is right where the wires attach.
I would replace the whole unit, get a warranty.

Do the job right and also at least fix the poor connections on the wires, if not replace the entire wire loom to the starter, it will bite you later if you dont do it now. Disco the battery before you mess with the starter, the big lead is + always.

 

[brian_slagle]

thanks for that....i guess i will just replace the whole unit and wires too since i will be in there already. thanks for the help and i'll post you on how it goes tonight

 

[CDW6212R]

Starters do last a long time. Yes I'd bet on the solenoid, buy one from local parts stores like Autozone.

Sorry for the off topic comment. I was responding to Mbrooks420, and his comment about upgrading his wires. I took a shot, guessing that he was not talking about a connection problem. A lot of people add new power loads(stereo, compressor, AC outlet, etc.), and alternator manufacturers tell them to replace their main alternator power wires.

Good luck with the starter.

 

[410Fortune]

the main alternator pigtail should be replaced with each new alternator/voltage regulator. According to Ford anyways.
I think this is the 6th alternator I have had in my BII, hahahaha each one wired slightly different, I finally got it right with this 5.0L....hahaha I wasnt charging the battery enough ever since I went 4.0L about 7 years ago......damn hybrids.

 

[CDW6212R]

You obviously know how buried the factory wires are in the harness. You do not casually remove them, and replace them. To lay a new additional wire on top of the connections is extrememly easy, compared to replacing the wire(s). No one ever thinks to upgrade the ground wires, so even then the stock wiring(for high powered systems) may not be enough. Regards,

 

[410Fortune]

I call that the wrong way to do it.

They are only buried in the harness if you are scared of cutting some tape and loom.
I will take an entire day to pull the necessary wires/harness out engouh so I can fix it properly.

My starter wires no longer are routed with the factory harness, in fact none of the harness are wrapped together or routed the same as Ford had them, but then my truck is all custom.

Anyways on my projects I dont go half assed, adding wires on top is great for testing purposes but in no way should be permanent repair. The harness is not that tricky, I think you are just scared of it because you have never removed it.

I can unplug an entire underhood wiring harness from a gen II in a couple of hours.
Oh did I mention I am extremely **** about my projects? hahahaha

whatever gets you down the road works, but I like clean and neat and simple.

 

[CDW6212R]

I am selectively "****." If the same goal is achieved, and is unnoticeably different, I am agreeable. I do get major battery wires custom made/crimped, using zero gauge or whatever I think I need for the task.

The only wire for my 93/99 that will need that level of special labor, is my ground battery cable. I will have it made to replace the original cut cable. I already have the original one planned to connect the radiator support, to the frame. I will have less than 40 amps of extra power need, 30 amps for an onboard compressor.

I will install a solenoid for that compressor, and two wires from its input terminal, to the alternator and battery. The other circuits will get their power from that terminal. My added wiring will be more than enough for the extra power needs, and I will not need any different factory wires. It will all look like original wiring.
Now to get to it, regards.