replacement vacuum canister?

[yeahokay]

Ive been dealing with ac blowing through the defrost vents. In 100 degree heat that doesnt work too well. I also live on a mountain and usually need to go up in elevation so its constantly blowing out the vents.

I have tried a check valve in between the engine and the canister but its still doing it. (Is that the correct spot?) I also replaced the EATC (because i broke it trying to replace the seals on it myself). The only thing left is vacuum and that canister probably leaking.

First anything else I might be missing? Second what is everyone doing for replacements? Is there a generic one I can order and use, or should I look for used ones, or are you guys sourcing nos ford ones?

 

[J_C]

Before I went to the trouble of doing a smoke test to try to find the leak, what I'd do is hook up a scan tool capable of live data and look at long term fuel trim, then unplug the vac line from the engine to the canister, at the canister, and plug the end with my finger or whatever. If your long term fuel trim improves, you have a leak after that point. If it doesn't, that line itself (before or after the valve) may be leaking.

Similarly, plug that back onto the canister and unplug the other line coming from it, then plug the canister and repeat above test to see if long term fuel trim improves by plugging it. If so, you should have found your leak. Next, plug that back in, and unplug the vac line where it goes in the firewall, and plug that end of the line and test long term fuel trim again. Next test at the EATC module, before and after it, and the vac lines going out to the heater core coolant valve, and to the floor vent, defrost, and recirculation door.

Might be easier to do the smoke test than go through all that, but you mentioned the canister so it's early on that list. You could try sealing it with epoxy or RTV sealant if you find a crack, or scavenge one from a junkyard. There's probably several model years of Explorers and Rangers that use the same one, a few examples and a part # in this link:

1995-2011 Ford Vacuum Reservoir F67Z-19A566-BA | TascaParts.com

1995-2011 Ford part # F67Z-19A566-BA - Vacuum Reservoir

www.tascaparts.com

It might be cheaper elsewhere if buying online.

 

[Pete Deering]

Ive been dealing with ac blowing through the defrost vents. In 100 degree heat that doesnt work too well. I also live on a mountain and usually need to go up in elevation so its constantly blowing out the vents.

I have tried a check valve in between the engine and the canister but its still doing it. (Is that the correct spot?) I also replaced the EATC (because i broke it trying to replace the seals on it myself). The only thing left is vacuum and that canister probably leaking.

First anything else I might be missing? Second what is everyone doing for replacements? Is there a generic one I can order and use, or should I look for used ones, or are you guys sourcing nos ford ones?

Does look like what you have?
Amazon product ASIN B001FEY1YG

 

[yeahokay]

It’s a ball for sure not sure if that one will work or not.

 

[J_C]

You might do a lookup on dorman's site to see if that's the compatible part # they list.

 

[yeahokay]

Before I went to the trouble of doing a smoke test to try to find the leak, what I'd do is hook up a scan tool capable of live data and look at long term fuel trim, then unplug the vac line from the engine to the canister, at the canister, and plug the end with my finger or whatever. If your long term fuel trim improves, you have a leak after that point. If it doesn't, that line itself (before or after the valve) may be leaking.

Similarly, plug that back onto the canister and unplug the other line coming from it, then plug the canister and repeat above test to see if long term fuel trim improves by plugging it. If so, you should have found your leak. Next, plug that back in, and unplug the vac line where it goes in the firewall, and plug that end of the line and test long term fuel trim again. Next test at the EATC module, before and after it, and the vac lines going out to the heater core coolant valve, and to the floor vent, defrost, and recirculation door.

Might be easier to do the smoke test than go through all that, but you mentioned the canister so it's early on that list. You could try sealing it with epoxy or RTV sealant if you find a crack, or scavenge one from a junkyard. There's probably several model years of Explorers and Rangers that use the same one, a few examples and a part # in this link:

1995-2011 Ford Vacuum Reservoir F67Z-19A566-BA | TascaParts.com

1995-2011 Ford part # F67Z-19A566-BA - Vacuum Reservoir

www.tascaparts.com

It might be cheaper elsewhere if buying online.

I don’t have a scan tool capable of doing that or a way to do a smoke test. I need to get one though but not yet. I think I will pull the vacuum canister and visually inspect it and test it. I’m betting there is a leak and that link is good $25 is not bad at all.

 

[C420sailor]

check the plastic vacuum lines too—they tend to crack. A lot

 

[yeahokay]

check the plastic vacuum lines too—they tend to crack. A lot

I finally found the problem, It was not the pastic vacuum lines specifically but close. I had two leaks, a splice of rubber hose in the plastic vacuum line, and vacuum canister to the engine there was a splice (not sure if factory or not) but it was a plastic coupler with the rubber ends on the hose, the plastic coupler had a crack. I ended up getting a vacuum resvoir at the junk yard and when that didnt fix the problem I finally just started sucking and blowing on the vacuum lines (I should have done that first) and narrowed it down where the leads were.