Replacing Glass & Brake Lines / Mold Remediation

[rewind1]

This is a multi part-er:

My 98 Mounty was broken into 3 years ago and has been sitting while waiting for some court proceedings to finalize. Tomorrow I am planning on begining the first major rehab steps.

First, I will be replacing the 4 windows that were smashed (Passenger and Driver Front Door, Driver Rear Quarter, Rear Lift Glass). The rear lift glass seems to be the easiest to do, followed by the rear quarter. The doors have me a little concerned with the rivets.
Can anyone who has done the door glass give me any idea how much time you spent on this, I'm trying not to get too far ahead of myself here with what I plan to do.

Second, the brake lines need to be replaced. I need to look and see just how bad the rust is but I'm thinking regardless I just want to get new, quality lines for the entire run. Anyone have thoughts on this?

Third, its been sitting with a tarp over it for almost 3 years, there is visible mold in several areas. The hard plastic and leather surfaces I'm not too concerned with as i expect it to clean up easily with vinegar. What i am unsure of is getting it out of the carpet. I want to do a good job here because my girlfriend is sensitive to mold and I don't want her to have trouble.
Any tips on mold removal are appreciated.

She gets started roughly every 6 months but has not really moved around much. I'd like to make sure the drivetrain/fluids are happy before getting back on the road, thoughts?


I plan to do some write-ups on anything that is beyond simple.

Will post some before and after pics soon too.

 

[Mike65]

As far as the door windows if you have to cut off the rivets just use nuts & bolts to reassemble it. As far as the brake lines I just did the line to the rear axle & both lines out to the wheel cylinders on my 2000 Ranger & I used nycad brake line & purchased a good brake flaring kit & made the lines I needed.

 

[rewind1]

This weekend was very productive.
Before (Spraypaint, Busted front driver, rear quarter and liftgate glass)

After (spraypaint removed with brake cleaner. glass pillaged from '99 explorer wreck/parts truck, still need to grab passenger front door glass from junkyard)

Font door rivets were a pain. Used a combination of drill and chisel to cut, pry, and beat them out. Reinstalled with nut and bolt.

Window gets stuck rolling down. The window motor is healthy, comes back up like a champ. Looks like the scissor arm just isn't sliding properly on the window track. If I give it a little help it goes right down. Might just need to be greased up or I might have to replace something. Any ideas what to try?

 

[koda2000]

Spray your window channels with Liquid Wrench foaming silicon spray (epically the rear one) to stop the glass from sticking when going down. Works like a charm.

Dilute some bleach with water (4-5 parts water to 1 part bleach if I remember correctly) to kill the mold. If you have a carpet cleaner, use the solution in there too. The carpet will be the hardest to remediate. It might be better to replace it or have it professionally cleaned with a steam cleaner.

 

[rewind1]

As far as the door windows if you have to cut off the rivets just use nuts & bolts to reassemble it. As far as the brake lines I just did the line to the rear axle & both lines out to the wheel cylinders on my 2000 Ranger & I used nycad brake line & purchased a good brake flaring kit & made the lines I needed.

Thanks for the recommendation on the rivets and lines. I have to replace the front driver side brake line and I realized this weekend that line looks in great shape on my parts truck, I'm going to see about pulling and swapping it next weekend. Hopefully it wont give me too much trouble.

Spray your window channels with Liquid Wrench foaming silicon spray (epically the rear one) to stop the glass from sticking when going down. Works like a charm.

Dilute some bleach with water (4-5 parts water to 1 part bleach if I remember correctly) to kill the mold. If you have a carpet cleaner, use the solution in there too. The carpet will be the hardest to remediate. It might be better to replace it or have it professionally cleaned with a steam cleaner.

Good rec on the Liquid Wrench, I will def give that a try this week.
I was fortunate that the mold didn't really get into the carpet. I got the mold off of the plastics and leather using straight white vinegar. I have before pics but need to take the afters, will post up once I do that.


The seatbelts have some mold still and I tried the white vinegar on them but it didn't really do anything. I saw a youtube where someone pressure washed the mold out of a seatbelt but i wonder if that is really just pushing the mold deeper into the fabric. I will probably try the vinegar again by taking them out and really scrubbing them. Unless I get any other suggestions?

 

[koda2000]

When I bought my 2000 XLT (a year ago last Oct) the driver's window would not go down w/out help. My daughter's 2000 Mountaineer was having the same problem. The silicon spray got them working like new again and I haven't had to reapply since.

 

[pjtoledo]

it appears too late to help you, but removing the rivets is an easy 2-step process.
first use a punch and drive the center pin out., or at least push it in.
then use a bit slightly larger than half the head of the rivet and start drilling.
when the rivet head starts spinning, tilt the drill off to the side 10-15 degrees. (think of drilling a crooked hole)
continue drilling (crooked) and the bit will chew thru one side of the spinning rivet in a few seconds. the head then pops off.



Perry

 

[rewind1]

I still need to snap some interior pics post mold removal, but I made some good progress yesterday.

I knew that I had a serious brake leak in the front of the truck. I didn't know where exactly, and I wasn't about to investigate because honestly after looking at my lines i decided it would be safer just to replace them all.
Once i started pulling the front driver line out, I immediately found the source of the leak on the chassis just next to the wheel. Viola!

Here is the old line next to the line I removed from my '99 Limited parts truck. I'm curious why my original lines have that coil around them but not the lines on the '99.

I'm glad the painted lines held up so well and will feel much more at-ease driving my truck knowing this is the condition they will be in.

I have replaced the front driver line (seen above) as well as the two lines between the ABS module and master cylinder. I am going to refill and bleed the system this week just to get this thing on the road and see what other issues she may have from sitting all these years but I plan to replace the remaining two lines (to the passenger front and to the rear axle) very soon as well since they are in similar shape.

 

[John Klingbeil]

Hi there! You can consult any expert for replacing glass/ brake line. If you detect a mold in your home or car then you may also contact a mold remediation company before you spend money on mold testing or doing some natural remedies to remove it. Mold can be very harmful to people it also causes some serious health issue. You can get many companies by searching online or check this out for mold remediation.

 

[CDW6212R]

Well done with your progress to save that truck. I love those two toned red Mountaineers.

If the rugs have any issues like mold or being wet for any length of time(minor leak), it's best to remove them completely. Wash them on the driveway on a sunny day, it takes a long time to dry properly. It's great if you have a pressure washer to do it faster and more thoroughly, but you can do it well with a decent water hose and nozzle.

Use the needed chemical, all the way to brake cleaner for super tough spots, or the mold removal solution. Be sure the rug is wet before using any of the harsher chemicals, start with a vacuum cleaner and a basic wet down and mild cleaner.

The sunny day is very important to getting a rug dry, without it it might take a day or two, even suspended above the ground. I always first lay any rug or a floor mat over a large bush to let most of the water drip out quickly. Give that 15 minutes, up to an hour if you can, and then flip it up for the sunshine to dry it. On a sunny day, that can get it done in a couple of hours.

I've only had one rug not clean up completely, and that was my 99 Explorer which had been in a JY for a while with some nasty car parts laying in it. I tried engine degreaser and brake cleaner in spots, I think even a little carb cleaner, all last when the rug was done and soaked. It didn't help and did not fade the color, which is dark gray. I used it anyway because my old 93 Limited rug didn't fit the tunnel as well.

If you gut the interior to R&R the rugs, that is the ideal time to do the seat belts. Either remove them(I would) and clean them outside, of carefully pressure wash them in place. The cleanup is easier with the interior out, you can be sure to have the whole interior clean and dried.

 

[rewind1]

@koda2000, Thank you for your reccomendation on the silicone spray. It worked like a charm!
@CDW6212R, I saw someone pressure washing a seatbelt on youtube but thought that maybe wasnt actually washing the mold off but pushing it deeper into the fibers. As for the rugs, there wasnt much mold on them at all. Most of it was the dash and doors, non-pourous surfaces. I will take this advice for the future though, I know there's some nastiness near the seat mounts (and I'm sure under them) that I've had trouble cleaning in the past. I'm going to want her as close to perfect as is reasonable and this will for sure be part of that process.

I've since started tracking my progress in my registry thread.

 

[koda2000]

For mold on hard surfaces, mix 1 part bleach with 5 parts water. Use a old washcloth, or something similar, and wearing rubber gloves wash the effected area, let it sit a few minutes, rinse and dry.

 

[96eb96]

I still need to snap some interior pics post mold removal, but I made some good progress yesterday.

I knew that I had a serious brake leak in the front of the truck. I didn't know where exactly, and I wasn't about to investigate because honestly after looking at my lines i decided it would be safer just to replace them all.
Once i started pulling the front driver line out, I immediately found the source of the leak on the chassis just next to the wheel. Viola!

Here is the old line next to the line I removed from my '99 Limited parts truck. I'm curious why my original lines have that coil around them but not the lines on the '99.

I'm glad the painted lines held up so well and will feel much more at-ease driving my truck knowing this is the condition they will be in.

I have replaced the front driver line (seen above) as well as the two lines between the ABS module and master cylinder. I am going to refill and bleed the system this week just to get this thing on the road and see what other issues she may have from sitting all these years but I plan to replace the remaining two lines (to the passenger front and to the rear axle) very soon as well since they are in similar shape.

I think Ford started coating all their lines around 98 or so. Same on my Grand Marquis. Even today I don't think all makers do that. Great peace of mind feature, especially if you keep the truck long.

The spring on the brake is rock guard (I guess for offroading). All it does is trap moisture and accelerate rust.