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Replacing Serpentine Belt: Very Difficult?

Dan66

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October 27, 2005
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City, State
Cedar Park, TX
Year, Model & Trim Level
'96 XLT
Just noticed the serpentine belt on my '96 4.0 is pretty much covered in small cracks, so it's well past time to replace it. Question is, should I give it a go myself or take it to my mechanic. Yes, I'm somewhat mechanically inclined; but some of you will remember that my knowledge is more with vintage Mustangs. Sometimes I feel like I may as well be working on the Space Shuttle as my Explorer!
 



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Piece of cake. I believe Aldive did a write-up on this not too long ago. With a good breaker bar or serpentine belt removal tool, it takes all of 5 minutes.

-Joe
 






Give it a shot. I did mine. All you need is a 3/8 inch ratchet with a small extension to turn the tensioner, for taking the old one off and installing the new one. Took me 15 minutes. There is a schematic under the hood for putting the new one on.
 






Thanks for the quick responses, guys. Good to know it's so easy. Anyone have any pics of the procedure that could be used as a tutorial or perhaps know of a site that has some?
 






It's also easier (but not mandatory) if you have a 2nd person. One holds the tensioner, the other threads the belt. Make sure your car has the belt routing diagram on it before you remove the old one. If you don't have a diagram, draw yourself a picture.
 






Check out a Haynes/Chilton manual for a walk-through - if you can handle an old Stang you can handle this. Its simple for anyone with basic mechanical skills.
 






As with most tasks the first time you do it takes a lot longer than subsequent times.

You might find belt intimidating the first time and it might take you more time than expected, but it is a very easy task and can be done alone in less than 5 minutes.'

Give it a go by all means.

Good luck ...
 






To Replace Serpentine belt

Removal

1. Remove the air cleaner outlet tube;
2. To Remove the drive belt (8620).

1 Use the bolt and rotate the drive belt tensioner (6B209) counterclockwise.

2 Remove the drive belt.


Installation
1. Install the drive belt; refer to the illustration. It is shown under the hood by the radiator.

Hope this helps.
Fairly easy to do, just go slow and maybe get some help for the first time. We both carry a spare in case it happens on a trip. It is very expensive to get towed, stay in motel until repairs are made and then the high bill for the job. Good luck

asparagus
 






asparagus said:
Removal

Use the bolt and rotate the drive belt tensioner (6B209) counterclockwise.

You do not use the bolt to turn the tensioner, you use the square hole ( size of a 3/8" breaker bar, to rotate the tensioner.
 






Gatorback whistl'in

I don't know if you have picked up a belt yet or not, but just a quick heads up that the Goodyear Gators whistle a bit. I put one on last month and for the first couple of weeks before the noise subsided I pretended I had a turbo! LOL.
 






I just did mine about 2 months ago. As I see from all the previous responders, it was very simple to do. Make sure you follow the exact schematic layout (on front crossover on radiator)

Shouldn't be too difficult and it beats paying $50.00 at the dealer.
Good Luck!
 






jamester_a said:
I don't know if you have picked up a belt yet or not, but just a quick heads up that the Goodyear Gators whistle a bit. I put one on last month and for the first couple of weeks before the noise subsided I pretended I had a turbo! LOL.

I use the Goodyear Gatorback belt and have never had any problems.
 






My truck just developed a god awful squeak 3 days after I thought to myself "ya know I should probably replace that belt next weekend"... Just a quick question because I have roughly priced these. Is $50 at NAPA sounding about right in the price department for a belt? I have an OHV engine, if it matters too much.
 






newc5188 said:
My truck just developed a god awful squeak 3 days after I thought to myself "ya know I should probably replace that belt next weekend"... Just a quick question because I have roughly priced these. Is $50 at NAPA sounding about right in the price department for a belt? I have an OHV engine, if it matters too much.

$50 seems high to me; I just bought one for my SOHC for $37 at Advanced Auto Parts.

Good luck.
 






Thanks, I love hearing things are cheaper than I expect them to be. I got this price off of Ford Auto Parts...
 






Belt Replacement - Watch Out!

I had a bad experience replacing my belt. I went to AutoZone and bought a belt, about $22. But when they looked the belt up in the computer it said " w/ AC " Which most of us would understand to be WITH AC, right? Well after spending 2 and half hours trying to get this belt on :fire: . . . I called AutoZone up and asked if there was possibly a longer belt available? They said yes, so I hopped in my wife's GrandAm(gee those things are small) and went to get the longer belt. When I got there the guy behind the counter told me that the computer was screwy and "w/ AC" meant With OUT AC. Hence the shorter belt. Upon returning home with the longer/correct belt it only took me about 15 minutes to get it on :) . It was hard for me to get enough leverage on the tensioner pulley. Can anyone be of any help for next time?

Also, my belt screams in the morning when I go to work with lights, heat and radio on. Is there anything I can do about this? :rolleyes:

Thanks,
Rodger
 






r0dr0c said:
It was hard for me to get enough leverage on the tensioner pulley. Can anyone be of any help for next time?

Also, my belt screams in the morning when I go to work with lights, heat and radio on. Is there anything I can do about this? :rolleyes:

Use a 3/8" breaker bar with a "cheater pipe" over it; works like a charm.

Squealing belt sometimes means the belt is too long.
 






aldive said:
Use a 3/8" breaker bar with a "cheater pipe" over it; works like a charm.

Squealing belt sometimes means the belt is too long.
You don't need a cheater bar, a 12 inch bracker bar will work fine
 






Sure the tensioner can be turned without a "cheater pipe', its just a lot easier to do it that way.

The gentleman asked how he could get more leverage and a :"cheater pipe" is a simple way to do that.
 



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believe it or not if you take a bar of ivory soap and with your truck running very carefully hold the bar soap against the ribbed side of the belt the sound will go away for about a month. i used to sell cars and i had a cheap boss. it sounds dangerous i know but its real easy to do and it works like a charm.

now for what you didn't want to know if your belt is squeling its because it is slipping.
all you have to do is replace the tensioner its only like 35 bills at advance but thats whats wrong the soap just allows it to slip with out the noise temp fix but not the remedy. 50 bills is way to much my belt was only 30 at advance. and all you need to change the belt is a 3/8 drive and 3" ext. i didn't use a breaker bar and the ex. would'nt fit b/c of my fan. but it will maybe help you good luck!!
 






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