Replacing Spark Plugs/Wires on 98 5.0 Ex

[King$nake]

Hello,

I am planning on some engine 'refreshing' on my 130,x.. mile 5.0 V8

Just wanting to know how difficult the plugs are to get to? If it's going to be a big pain in the ass then I might just have a mechanic do it. Thoughts on this?

Here is my to-do list:

- Motorcraft Plug wires
- Spark Plugs (brand recommendations?)
- Replace Fuel Filter
- SeaFoam
- Injector Cleaner (fuel additive)
- Clean MAF w/ carb cleaner
- Clean Throttle Body w/ carb cleaner

Any other recommendations? I want to get this V8 running as strong as possible. I decided after all to keep this truck and fix the problems it has instead of financing a newer vehicle.

I already replaced the fuel pump, radiator, transmission rebuilt, etc

Thanks!!!

 

[Dan Whitaker]

Pull the rubber fender liner out (not the entire plastic wheel well liner) and access the plugs through the fender well. It is easier if you remove the tire as well.

Seafoam before you replace the plugs. Seafoaming is going to be harder than replacing the plugs.

DO NOT use carb cleaner to clean the MAF. By the CRC MAF cleaner.

 

[King$nake]

Pull the rubber fender liner out (not the entire plastic wheel well liner) and access the plugs through the fender well. It is easier if you remove the tire as well.

Seafoam before you replace the plugs. Seafoaming is going to be harder than replacing the plugs.

DO NOT use carb cleaner to clean the MAF. By the CRC MAF cleaner.

Cool, thanks. Do you have any recommendations for which spark plugs to buy?

Also does anyone know on which specific motorcraft wires to buy?

 

[X6StringerX]

It's really hard to beat Motorcraft plugs. I recommend contacting Steve of Tousley Ford. Tousley is a vendor here on EF and Steve is the one that handles internet sales. He'll take care of you. If you decide to order the plugs and wires from him, you may as well go with a Motorcraft fuel filter as well. Also, I second what Dan said about Seafoaming before you change the plugs. Rather than follow the directions on the can, I recommend using half of the can through either the PCV valve or brake booster vacuum line and the other half of the can directly into the gas tank when you have a full tank of gas. There's no need to use fuel injector cleaner as the Seafoam will clean them just fine. Change your fuel filter AFTER you fill up again. I don't recommend putting any in the crank case as the directions suggest.

 

[King$nake]

It's really hard to beat Motorcraft plugs. I recommend contacting Steve of Tousley Ford. Tousley is a vendor here on EF and Steve is the one that handles internet sales. He'll take care of you. If you decide to order the plugs and wires from him, you may as well go with a Motorcraft fuel filter as well. Also, I second what Dan said about Seafoaming before you change the plugs. Rather than follow the directions on the can, I recommend using half of the can through either the PCV valve or brake booster vacuum line and the other half of the can directly into the gas tank when you have a full tank of gas. There's no need to use fuel injector cleaner as the Seafoam will clean them just fine. Change your fuel filter AFTER you fill up again. I don't recommend putting any in the crank case as the directions suggest.

Thanks man. Do you guys recommend I replace the wires and plugs at the same times? Any specific spark plugs I should get? Or just motorcraft ones? Alright cool well when I order them I will call Steve @ Tousley Ford and just order the plugs, wires and fuel filter over the phone.

I did find the specific wires I need (motorcraft) on amazon.com, but at $100+, they aint cheap! damn I wonder if Steve can pull a better deal:

http://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-WR6034-Spark-Plug-Wire/dp/B000BYGJJG/ref=au_pf_ss_9?ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&carId=001

 

[Dan Whitaker]

Yes do the wires and the plugs at the same time.

You will be saving money buying the Motocraft wires. With the cheap store brand junk you will be replacing them again in two years.

As plugs are concerned everyone has their own opinion as what to use. One thing for sure though is DO NOT BUY BOSCH

 

[EMG7895]

plugs are easy through the wheel wells, it will take longer to re-route the wires than it will to change the plugs.

 

[beach]

Changing the plugs on my 5.0 this weekend as well, so quick question, I don't know if his truck is the same but on mine some of the plugs seem to have some metal type shield over them. Looked at it quickly and I think it covers the plug if I remember, how do you get those off or does that come off with the wire? As it's over the boot.

 

[my pos mounty]

Those metal shrouds are on the plug wire for heat shielding purposes. They will come right off with the wire.

 

[Dan Whitaker]

Changing the plugs on my 5.0 this weekend as well, so quick question, I don't know if his truck is the same but on mine some of the plugs seem to have some metal type shield over them. Looked at it quickly and I think it covers the plug if I remember, how do you get those off or does that come off with the wire? As it's over the boot.

To get those pesky ass things off just grab ahold of them with some pliers and work them up & down & side to side until they come out. They make trying to get the socket on the plugs damn near impossible.

 

[my pos mounty]

To get those pesky ass things off just grab ahold of them with some pliers and work them up & down & side to side until they come out. They make trying to get the socket on the plugs damn near impossible.

Uhm, Dan? I think you have to get those shields off, then the wires, then use a socket to get the plug out. Just saying
The shields have these tiny little tabs on them, and you could probably crush them by hand, rendering them useless. When I bought a new set of wires they came with them, and were more of a pain in the arse to put back on. Be sure to use dielectric grease inside the rubber boots so they wont stick to the porcelain, and you will be able to get the boots off next time.

 

[beach]

To get those pesky ass things off just grab ahold of them with some pliers and work them up & down & side to side until they come out. They make trying to get the socket on the plugs damn near impossible.

Are they good to reuse? Figure it must be there for a reason, I know its close to the manifold but I don't think it was touching it?

 

[celly]

Pull the rubber fender liner out (not the entire plastic wheel well liner) and access the plugs through the fender well. It is easier if you remove the tire as well.

Seafoam before you replace the plugs. Seafoaming is going to be harder than replacing the plugs.

What Dan said.

Eric (techieman33) showed me how to get at my plugs last summer when we were putting the truck back together after the header install. They really are dead simple to access through those soft wheel well skirts. I did it myself about a month later and it really is simple, unlike the nightware stories I hear about getting them out on the SOHC V6. I had no issues getting them out and had no need to remove the wheels to do it. Keep in mind I'm a really bad mechanic and am always wary about tackling projects for fear of screwing things up (and I've done that more than once).

Motorcraft or Autolite. Double Plats or Copper. They're the only plugs my truck will ever see.

I did two Seafoam treatments via the PCV Method last spring/summer and trashed a perfect good set of relatively new Motorcraft plugs. Definitely Seafoam before plugs.

 

[Dan Whitaker]

Those metal shrouds are on the plug wire for heat shielding purposes. They will come right off with the wire.

On my '97 there were metal tubes that were around the spark plug hole in the heads. The shields that come on the spark plug wires are fiberglass not metal at least on my '97 anyway. They changed the plug wires on '98 and up as when I bought my last set they asked me which set I needed

We're talking two different things here.

 

[Dan Whitaker]

Are they good to reuse? Figure it must be there for a reason, I know its close to the manifold but I don't think it was touching it?

Not when I got done with mine

What year is your Mounty? This would help.

 

[my pos mounty]

We're talking two different things here.

Knew it had to be something like that, Thanks for clearing it up in my head.
I didn't know there was any such animal around the plugs, I stand corrected! (for the umpeenth millionth time)

 

[beach]

not when i got done with mine :d

what year is your mounty? This would help.

2000

 

[storlied]

So uh... I found with these tubes some wires couldn't get a solid 100% connection.. so I've taken them all off [4 of em] There was 2 on each bank, the rear ones.. is there any serious risks runnin the truck with them removed? Nothing is actually touching the manifold but they are awfully close.

 

[celly]

So uh... I found with these tubes some wires couldn't get a solid 100% connection.. so I've taken them all off [4 of em] There was 2 on each bank, the rear ones.. is there any serious risks runnin the truck with them removed? Nothing is actually touching the manifold but they are awfully close.

What "tubes"? Are you using stock Motorcraft wires?

I'd replace these tubes with heat socks. The 5.0 is notorious for eating wires due to heat (stock and especially with headers).

 

[Joe Dirt]

For the sake of the new guys, maybe someone can post up some pics of the tubes... I don't have them on my truck(s) so I can't oblige...