Reviving 1998 Explorer from sitting 2 years

[rockfx01]

Hello, I am hoping someone with more experience will be able to help me. I'm trying to bring my Explorer back from the dead, it's been sitting for 2 years while I've been away at college. Now I'm back and ready to recommission it, but I'm having trouble getting it to start. The specs are:

1998 Explorer XLT
V6 4.0L SOHC
Stock engine parts to my knowledge, and up to date on at least engine related recalls.

The current condition is that it will crank(brand new battery) but will not start. There seems to be a fuel supply issue, but I wouldn't really know how to determine that. I did start the vehicle probably 2-4 mos. ago and it started, albeit a little roughly but I was able to drive it around a little while without a problem. Now it won't start at all. Here are some of the things I've checked/tried thus far:

1. Checked the plugs - Spark plugs look ok, more or less. I'm going to replace them anyway when I have a chance, but the ones that are in there were only a year, maybe 2 old when I parked the car. If needed I could pull one and take a picture of it. I don't really know how to tell possible problems by looking at the plugs.
2. Filled up with new fuel - The tank was pretty low by now. This is my primary concern because I didn't take into consideration when I stored it that condensation might form in the engine or tank. Therefore this is probably the biggest source of the problem. I was told by a mechanic to fill up with new fuel to dilute the old fuel and help the engine start. So far this has not seemed to help.
3. Used ignition spray to start the engine - Spraying a small burst of ignition fluid into the air intake does give a short rev when trying to start the vehicle. As soon as the ignition fluid burns off the engine immediately dies. This supports that the plugs are fine but instead there is a fuel supply problem.

I've just started this project and hopefully will be able to at least get it to start soon. Any suggestion on what to do? I believe the engine is reading error codes so I am going to try to borrow/rent a code reader sometime in the next week to find out what, if anything, it says. I'm hoping a complete rebuild is not necessary but who knows what problems there could be at this point. I am a bit suspect of the fuel pump, but have no idea how to check it. I do have the Haynes Repair Manual for my vehicle so if anyone wants to refer to that in helping me out, that would probably make it easier on both ends.

I appreciate any help anyone can give me. I don't know engine internals that well so I can definitely use your advice. Thank you!

 

[JDraper]

First thing I would do is replace the fuel filter.

Since you seem to have a fuel problem, when you turn the key to "on" but don't start it, do you get a 2-3 second whine out of the fuel pump? You should be able to hear it. If you don't here it, there is a fuel pump inertia re-set switch on the passenger's side floorboard up against the firewall. Make sure that's not tripped, and that all the fuses for the fuel pump are good. If all of that checks out, and your pump still isn't making noise, it's probably time for a new pump.

If you do have the pump whine, then I'd check fuel pressure at the fuel rail. If pressure is good, you may want to consider detaching the fuel line at the fuel rail, putting the fuel line in a bucket and switching the fuel pump on with the ignition switch to force any old fuel out of the fuel lines. Old fuel can cause a no-start/rough running condition. You may not have cleared all of the old fuel out of the lines yet.

 

[rockfx01]

I haven't had much time to work on it this week, but what I can say is this:

1. The inertia switch was not tripped.
2. The fuses look good, there's no reason for them to have gone bad anyways.
3. I do not hear any whine when i turn the ignition to on.

Looks like I need a new pump unless it magically decides to start tomorrow. I haven't actually tried cranking it in a couple days since I haven't had time, nor do I want to run down the battery I just shelled out a few good bucks for right away.

So right now my question is this: is it worth the hassle of replacing the pump myself, or should I just have it towed to be serviced? The pump itself is only $100(200+ for labor if I take it in, plus towing) and I can make time to do it, I'm just wondering if it's really worth the hassle. I have done other work before but never anything this major on a vehicle. Time to learn something new perhaps? I might be able to get one or two guys to come help out if I need to.

 

[UKExploder]

Reviving 1998 from sitting........

I, being 1 who loves saving money, wouldn't tow anything to a garage when it is just prob'ly something simple to repair.......go for it mate!...learn something new......get the 2 or 3 guys to help too, sometimes the more minds to work the more ideas for solutions u know {besides the feeling of comraderie}




:exporange :exp: :yelexp: :exp: :exporange :yelexp:

 

[Gadget X]

I agree with UKExploder. This is something that you should be able to easily do yourself, or with a little help from your friends, and I know there are threads on how to do it if you do a search for them. The only problem that I know you'll run into is that you said you just put gas in it, which is gonna make the tank a little bit heavier. That being said, drain the tank as much as you can, and have fun learning something new!

 

[410Fortune]

before you go replacing a fuel pump why dont you ensure the pump is getting power?

the fuel pump relay has been known to fail

If you hear nothing when you turn the key 80% of the time the relay or fuse are bad. I have also seen corrosion conditions on top of the tank where the power feeds plug into the in tank pump, so you can check this out too before you shell out $80-130 for a new in tank sender and pump.

You should be able to evacuate old fuel from the fuel lines using the shrader valve on th efuel rail, you dont have to disconnect them I dont believe (after you get the pump running)

After sitting for 2 years if you do get it to start (it should) I would be changing fluids from bumper to bumper (after truck is run to operating temp)

fuel will cause varnish inside the system after sitting, this fuel will likely not burn if you did not put stabil in there with it. The fuel pump may be dead, thats for sure but check the voltage that should be sent to the pump before you replace it, can save you alot of headaches and pin point your problem. THe fuel filter should be replaced ASAP

 

[rockfx01]

Fuel Filter

Well I have thus far been unsuccessful in getting the fuel filter off the line. I checked the pressure, there was none, it seems the line was totally dry because not even a drop of fuel drained from the pressure relief valve on the fuel pressure gauge. The clips are off of the filter/line but it seems no matter how hard I try, I can't get the line to disconnect from either end of the filter. Is there some kind of trick to it? I can twist the line around but there is no back/forward movement no matter how much i push or pull. I've replaced filters before on other cars and remember it being relatively easy to slide off. The filter is rusted out, which I'm sure contributes to the issue. Suggestions?

 

[MountaineerGreen]

You have to have a special tool to remove the fuel filter on these trucks- its not expensive and available at auto zone.

 

[cloaked_chaos]

You need to buy those little plastic fuel line disconnector tools to get it apart.

They are pretty small and usually really cheap. You can find them in pretty much any auto parts store.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/A-C-FUEL-LINE-QUICK-DISCONNECT-TOOL-SET_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43994QQihZ009QQitemZ190108703632QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW#ebayphotohosting
$4 plus $2.45 shipping on ebay.

 

[rockfx01]

Thanks for the tips, the fuel filter has now been replaced. The filter appeared only to be corroded on the outside, but the fuel that came out of it didn't look too great once i got it off. The fuse and relay appears fine, so I guess it's on to the pump and checking voltage at the pump next. Wish me luck!

 

[rockfx01]

[Double Post]

 

[rockfx01]

The fuel pump has been replaced and it starts fine now. I had it done at Pep Boys since it was rather inexpensive considering, and I didn't want to handle fuel myself. I also had an oil change done and brake fluid flush at the same time.

Now that it is running, I've been told and can tell from driving it that the CV Joints are bad. Is it worth paying the $350 to replace them or is it relatively easy work? I.E. would it take specialty tools or an excessive amount of time to do myself?