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Ricks Bronco: 1and 1/2

Thanks for that heads up, I'll will have to research what your saying before I go any further. I know others have redrilled their axles and don't remember if they had a spacer or not. May have to call some after market guys on this one also.
 



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But then again these are lug centric rims like the majority of all after market rims anyway. On the back I have disc brakes and those American rims are meant for a Ford Ex and there is no hub adapter. There's about a 1/4" air space around the inside of the rim and hub and they have been on this truck for close to 5 years with no problem. Like you say, may be a weight thing, dunno. But a close fitting spacer ring does sound beneficial.
But I'll check some more out tomorrow.
 






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Have the new axle studs in.
I think this makes for an interesting photo, no I"m not talking about the way a fluorescent shop light coupled with the camera flash makes for an interesting reflection of light....but the way it shows the comparison of a 5 x 4.5" bolt pattern and the new larger 5 on 5.5" pattern.

If it looks a little odd, it's because there is no brake rotor between rim and axle flange...yet.
The rotor fits tight around the center of the axle stub and you would not see the smaller bolt pattern holes.

You can clearly see the old smaller bolt pattern slightly below rim opening compared to the larger one.

Also there will be less strain on the lugs when turning larger tires due to the distance from center of axle to lug. Better leverage angle. And this just might be some of the problem with studs breaking on Explorers IMO with larger tires. Just a hunch.

Can you only imagine the amount of shear force put on those lugs when turning 35s 37s or even larger diameter tires when the studs are only a few inches from axle axis.
 






One other thing I did not mention about those studs I received from Moser Engineering.
They're not just a stud like a piece of threaded rod. On the back side is a 3/4" bolt head that I torqued down to 100 #s.
My long term plan is to run these after extensive testing including Magnafluxing or some other tests that can locate any structural flaws and then after time replace with an aftermarket hardened axle , hopefully before I go to a larger diameter tire.
Money is just not here yet.
I've dealt with Moser years back, and have had no complaints.
 






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Well the axle mod is done, other then waiting for the new rims.
I would like to point out that I did post heat the steel when I layed that bead on the top of the axle. Cast steel is more forgiving in that area then cast iron in the way it cools and coupled with the large bolt heads on the back it will be fine.
Like to find the post on another site where this guy had his 8.8 axle drilled out and that means he had around .090" between stud and outer edge.
This was on a hard core mud buggy with 50+" tires. Went thru two sets of these axles, not because the studs came loose but the flanges bent.

The rims would have been here next week, but seemed this local State Police did not like the way I came to a complete stop at an intersection.
Court date is the 24th of this month and the min. fine is $180, Yikes.
But received a letter from the court and seems the Officer is taking a vacation that week and I have to call on the 23rd to see what the Magistrate is going to do about it. Hmm.

So on to the next mod, which will be a built rear bumper.
Getting rid of that smittybuilt one.
I cut-off part of that Reese hitch to utilize in this build.
This was on the back under the smittybuilt, but was too low for good departure angle.
Especially now that I've been invited by some local Jeepers to do some trail rides on private property don't need no hang-ups ha ha. Jeeps out here out number Broncos about 20 to 1.

Plus one of my neighbors who has a trailer said if you need a tow up to Raush Creek let me know as long as i can drive some of the trails. "Hell ya" I said.

Thinking of running two parallel 2x2" square tubing with vertical 3" long pieces connecting both tubes. This way I'm thinking I could place the receiver between both tubes.
I really need to put that receiver in there for my rear mounted winch location, when and if I need to remove from front to back.
 






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Just came back from steel mill with 16' of 2x2" tubing to start the bumper mod and dice the smittybuilt.
The removable window and dropped rear bulkhead makes for easy hauling on larger pieces of steel.

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Have the square tubing laying on top to get a feel for what this will look like.
Going to leave about 1 1/2" on either side stick out.
Since this truck will eventually see more difficult trails in the future, I thought that this would be a good anchoring spot in case I go rear exo cage.


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Starting to weld up the receiver to the tubing.
 






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Starting to take shape, nothing fancy but should be sturdy enough.
I'll have the usual bells and whistles welded on also.
The receiver will have more structural work done a little later.

The tubing is 3/16".
 






3/16th's? Isn't that a little on the small side? I know you are trying to get your weight down, but wouldn't it have been better to use 1/4 or 5/16? Just asking. I have no idea what you are planning for this bumper other than for the towing application...just trying to learn here.
 






3/16th's? Isn't that a little on the small side? I know you are trying to get your weight down, but wouldn't it have been better to use 1/4 or 5/16? Just asking. I have no idea what you are planning for this bumper other than for the towing application...just trying to learn here.

1/4" would be overkill for what I've got planed for it. It's not going to tow anything larger then a small utility trailer if that.
To tell you the truth it will be used more for mounting my winch to when pulling firewood out.
The fact that it's sandwich between those two tubes will make it more then strong enough along with the vertical supports.

In fact, it now has more metal by volume surrounding the receiver then it did when it was a Reese hitch that I cut the snout off of.
Plus where I mounted the vertical supports are in line with the frame that it will be mounted to.
Now if it was going to mount on only one piece of tubing like it was before, then yes thicker metal would have been used.
That Reese hitch was on back of this truck.

I know one thing, it's a heavy beast to lift.
 






Considering the towing capacity of a BII, and what it will be used for, 3/16" is more than enough. My reciever tube is welded into 1/8" DOM and while ive only towed a ute. trailer a couple of times ive used it snatching rigs out and over stuff. It's the only thing on my rig that isnt dented or bent. :p:
 






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Making some mounting hardware for the bumper.
This is looking straight down on the primered bumper to a piece of angle laying on top of the frame. The angle will be welded to backside of the bumper where on of the vertical supports is located.
Then there will be two 1/2" grade 8 bolts drilled through the angle into frame.
You can see the dimples that will mark my drilling points.
Also there is a side piece that will be welded on bumper and then bolts to side of frame.


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Here is the side bracket that will bolt to side of frame.

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Only thing left is to install tag and light.
There is nothing fancy about this bumper, that's for sure.
At 4.32 lbs/ft this thing weighs a little of 6o pounds the way you see it.
Need some D-rings mounted on side directly in line with frame, I do think?
Made sure the parallel tubes ran full width of the gas tank and to have a secure anchoring point for the receiver.
Then mitered up on a 45 deg, to a single tube to give a better departure angle at tire area.
Of coarse I capped the ends to keep guys from stuffing crap in the ends Ha Ha.
 






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Just added some more supports for a little lateral bracing if I have to do a side pull on winch.
Just tacked right now. The bottom of receiver will be welded to the brace.
 






I'm not sure if I have mentioned this, but start painting thing BLACK!!! HAHAHAHAHA! Sorry, I just had to.....
 












Any reason you used two tubes all the way across?

By eliminating the bottom tube you gain some departure angle (at the tires).

We did that for the front and it make it easier to climb on things.

This is what I'm talking about. Two tube in the center (between the frame rails) and a single tube from there out.


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and yes the high lift has been moved. Actually it got tweaked multiple directions last time out and we had to cut it apart to save the mechanical part.

~Mark
 






Zapper and Mark, I don't have a clue what you guys are talking about.
Please scroll back and check it out again.
Maybe it had to do with a Mass Hallucination thing?
Something about end caps and Departure angle.
Seems alright to me? ;)

About painting black, It's just too humid right now. Be a good Winter time project with the lower Dew Points.
 






I'm not sure if I have mentioned this, but start painting thing BLACK!!! HAHAHAHAHA! Sorry, I just had to.....

Hey BLACKFORD, Oh I'm sure you mentioned it. I noticed out of your 40+ posts, I think 39 have been to tell me to paint it black.
Are you trying to tell me something" HA HA

Promise, you'll be the first to know ;)
 






Zapper and Mark, I don't have a clue what you guys are talking about.
Please scroll back and check it out again.
Maybe it had to do with a Mass Hallucination thing?
Something about end caps and Departure angle.
Seems alright to me? ;)

About painting black, It's just too humid right now. Be a good Winter time project with the lower Dew Points.

I think my hallucination thing may have cured itself this morning just after 7:00 am or so :)..

Looks good.

~Mark
 






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Good ideas from both U guys :salute:
Now it's finally done...I hope. All lights are wired and working with tag light up high were it should be.
Least give me credit for that one guys :)
 



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Looks really good, rookie. Keep it up!
 






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