Riding down the freeway | Page 4 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Riding down the freeway

So…the only time I’ve ever driven my Explorer (was my SOHC) fast was responding to a few house fires w/ occupants trapped, all lit up.

I can tell you that it isn’t governed at 100mph. It’s been a long time, but I once hit what looked like 112 or so on a very long straight. The speedo reads 2ish high at normal speeds, so that isn’t more than 110 or so.

With all the susp components in good shape, she actually handles pretty damn well in such a scenario, but I tend to be careful in corners. Physics is physics, and SUVs have higher CGs.

Where you are going to get roasted is braking. The last fire I hauled ass to, I was following a county cop and we were MOVING. Lots of cornering, aggressive accel/decel. The brake fade was horrific. It was a real eye opener.

These probably weren’t my smartest moments, but when you have people hanging out of windows…you do what you have to do
Thanks for your service and yeah that speed limiter isn't real ive hit over 120 downhill in my 99 SOHC
 



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And even on flat ground it'll do 120 after a while
 






The stock 15" Explorer models have 29" tires, the late 90's 16" tires were 30" tall. The 30" size is the most accurate for the speedometer, 29's make it read too fast.

I had 17x8" Ford wheels on my Mountaineer right after I bought it, I put them on with the EE X-Spec suspension kit. The 255/60/17" tires were 29", total wheel tire weight was 58.5lbs, and it handled much better than stock. So it all matters, better suspension, ride height, and tires.

View attachment 434926
niiiiice red one
 






I was fortunate to be an early buyer of the EE bar, I bought the entire EE X-Spec kit for my 98 Mountaineer. It lowered it 2 3/8" in the rear, and the shocks and rear sway bar helped a bunch. I later bought just the rear bar for my 99 Limited, here's what it looks like from above without the body;

View attachment 434891
So the rear is lower than the front now? If they're available, I wonder if getting the EE sway bar kit installed would make a radical handling improvement to my 98 Ex. I did get the swaybar links already and the bushings. Poly, I think, they were the Precision brand (Moog makes them). None of the shops mentioned anything about my springs and shocks, no idea how old they are, it does ride like a truck especially over potholes, but seems ok on the highway!
 






Keep your suspension maintained. One of the neglected items is your stabilizer bar bushings and end link bushings. They help greatly with curves and cornering. Your steering rod dampener and shocks is another item.
 






Keep your suspension maintained. One of the neglected items is your stabilizer bar bushings and end link bushings. They help greatly with curves and cornering. Your steering rod dampener and shocks is another item.
Read the thread.
 






So the rear is lower than the front now? If they're available, I wonder if getting the EE sway bar kit installed would make a radical handling improvement to my 98 Ex. I did get the swaybar links already and the bushings. Poly, I think, they were the Precision brand (Moog makes them). None of the shops mentioned anything about my springs and shocks, no idea how old they are, it does ride like a truck especially over potholes, but seems ok on the highway!

The urethane bushings for all of the sway bar mounting points will help a bunch, keep an eye on all of those for any deforming, or falling apart. My white 98 has eaten two sets of front end link bushings, two different brands from Amazon. I have the ES kit to put on now, but the bushings are not the large size like I installed in my 98 Mountaineer over 15 years ago. I've considered calling ES and find the big size which they still make I'm sure.

So if anyone has issues with the front end links, stop buying the application made for stuff, the bushings need to be larger in diameter for the weight and forces of the vehicle.

The rear bar isn't large enough which allows a lot of rear movement, just as the leaf springs have poor control. The fifth shock helps with lateral control, so be sure that's in good shape. I liked the Bilstein shocks, and the 5th shock was also very stiff. I'd not install a weak 5th shock, that needs to be very strong.
 






^ I recall swshawaii used the ES 9.8103G bushings, machined them down a bit.


For some reason Amazon wants less for the red (9.8103R) than the black, same for the stock size 9.8105R.

My monroe load adjust coilover shocks helped a lot with rear end control. It was too tight (rear end skittish over bumps) due to them for the first few months, but once broken in, helped a lot. Then there was the problem that the extra strain they put on the badly rusted lower shock mount plates, broke them sooner. I just hope this doesn't cause the same on the upper shock mount point, crossmember which is decidedly more of a hassle to find (or fabricate) a replacement for and install.
 






@joney riding like a truck is good! My 98 had a soft ride for a while. Turns out I had a cracked leaf in one of my packs. Replaced the back and she’s back to a tight ride
 






@cober good to see you on here, hopefully you can avoid the draft and stay safe over there…we need your mods!
 






I don't drive much past 75. Mainly cause I have no cruise. Great ford thinking. Put cruise on a 93 but an option on a 2002...
 






I don't drive much past 75. Mainly cause I have no cruise. Great ford thinking. Put cruise on a 93 but an option on a 2002...
were they different trims
 






I don't drive much past 75. Mainly cause I have no cruise. Great ford thinking. Put cruise on a 93 but an option on a 2002...
It is ridiculous. There’s so little to adding the cruise at the factory.
 






My 1994 suspension and drive train has been heavily modified for off road. 5.13 gears and 35" tires. I cruise on the interstate at 60-65, stay in the right lanes and drive. If it's a two lane in one direction highway, I only use the left lane to pass. Two lane highway, I'm at 55-65. Same when driving the RV pulling the Explorer. Gear ratios don't change when it's being towed so all those gears and bearings are spinning like crazy at anything over 65. Besides, 18,000 pounds takes distance to slow/stop.

The Explorer is smoother on the highway now than it was new. It also stops better. It's really just the way it's geared that keeps my speeds down.
 






For animals on the highway, if you can avoid them, avoid them. If their body is lower than your hood and you can't avoid them without running off the road, hit them. If their body is taller than the hood, you need to avoid hitting them square on because they will come through the windshield. That's really all there is to it.
 






My 1994 suspension and drive train has been heavily modified for off road. 5.13 gears and 35" tires. I cruise on the interstate at 60-65, stay in the right lanes and drive. If it's a two lane in one direction highway, I only use the left lane to pass. Two lane highway, I'm at 55-65. Same when driving the RV pulling the Explorer. Gear ratios don't change when it's being towed so all those gears and bearings are spinning like crazy at anything over 65. Besides, 18,000 pounds takes distance to slow/stop.

The Explorer is smoother on the highway now than it was new. It also stops better. It's really just the way it's geared that keeps my speeds down.
I’ve never considered the gearing of a towed vehicle.
 






For animals on the highway, if you can avoid them, avoid them. If their body is lower than your hood and you can't avoid them without running off the road, hit them. If their body is taller than the hood, you need to avoid hitting them square on because they will come through the windshield. That's really all there is to it.
Was on the interstate today. Definitely saw a juvenile black bear had been hit lying on the shoulder. Estimate it was a 150-200 pounder from a quick glance!
My Ex rode quite well on the highway with the 34lb. pressure (believe I have 3.73 gears)
BUT the mission was aborted, when trying to keep the 70 mph speed up a slight grade, had to push harder and harder on the gas pedal - no sounds or warning lights, believe it was already in overdrive. A herd of tractor trailers catching up behind me. There was some question also if I was getting all gas pedal or possibly catching al little of the brake pedal too. (Not going to drive in those too-wide shoes, any more!) 175 K on the SOHC, haven't driven it before past 65 mph. Does this mean it's kicking the bucket, or just don't try to go that fast (cause age, etc.) It's always done 50 -65 no problem. Is there an easy, effective way to know, preferably cheap too? If I get Forscan working on my cell, will it show me? I turned around cause alternate route would make me even later, and had already been late to the party which would be over by then. BTW had just gotten an oil change to full synthetic, it was synthetic blend in it before, mechanic said it was a little brown but not bad.
 






The axle code on the door tag is the way to lookup the ratio.
when trying to keep the 70 mph speed up a slight grade, had to push harder and harder on the gas pedal - no sounds or warning lights, believe it was already in overdrive. A herd of tractor trailers catching up behind me.
The movie Duel comes to mind...
 






Was on the interstate today. Definitely saw a juvenile black bear had been hit lying on the shoulder. Estimate it was a 150-200 pounder from a quick glance!

My Ex rode quite well on the highway with the 34lb. pressure (believe I have 3.73 gears)
BUT the mission was aborted, when trying to keep the 70 mph speed up a slight grade, had to push harder and harder on the gas pedal - no sounds or warning lights, believe it was already in overdrive. A herd of tractor trailers catching up behind me. There was some question also if I was getting all gas pedal or possibly catching al little of the brake pedal too. (Not going to drive in those too-wide shoes, any more!) 175 K on the SOHC, haven't driven it before past 65 mph. Does this mean it's kicking the bucket, or just don't try to go that fast (cause age, etc.) It's always done 50 -65 no problem. Is there an easy, effective way to know, preferably cheap too? If I get Forscan working on my cell, will it show me? I turned around cause alternate route would make me even later, and had already been late to the party which would be over by then. BTW had just gotten an oil change to full synthetic, it was synthetic blend in it before, mechanic said it was a little brown but not bad.
What was the engine RPM? If not redlining, you weren't getting all it had. There is a known issue where the throttle cable can get some slack in it and you don't get full throttle.

Then again there are things you can do, check for misfires, check spark plugs, fuel trim, fuel pressure, check cylinder compression, check/change T-case, differential, transmission fluid, and oil, clean air filter, check for brake drag, -and- accept that the less you push it, the better off (for fuel economy too) and if someone wants to pass you, that's what the other lane(s) are for.
 



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