RU planning to put a 302 in your X? | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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RU planning to put a 302 in your X?

So you think you want to put a 302 in your 91 to 94 Four Wheel Drive Explorer? My advice is plan, then plan some more. Ask questions, then plan, and finally ask more questions then plan. You get the point. There are several sources for doing this swap with Rangers. Most of this info is usable on the Explorers. However, some options do change the way things fit. My ABS motor on the 94 XLT is making it tough to mount a radiator. Also, Size does matter! 302’s are the easiest fit. There is not much room in the older Explorers, so anything bigger than the 302 ( Size wise, not Cubic inch wise ) is hard to squeeze in there. Yes 427’s can be made to work, but why spend all the extra money redesigning the frame? Doing this conversion takes Time and Money, Be patent and you’ll enjoy the outcome. Try to rush it and things can go south real quick.

I started my project 9/27/00. Yep, over a year ago. Just proof that this is an addicting sport when you can sit for a year and still long for the offroad experience. Looking back, the biggest single improvement I could have made to this project would have been using a Donor vehicle. First choice would have been a 96 model 2WD V8 Explorer. Second choice would have been any 89 to 93 Mustang GT.

Donor vehicles can be picked up from Salvage or Insurance pools. Also, find a friend that can purchase from the Auto Auctions. High mileage Mustangs are going for $500 running ( who cares what the body looks like ) and the Explorers are going for around $3000. With the Donor vehicle you get all the brackets and wiring. Very important. Using the Explorer, you get the all-important clearance for your radiator.

Even with the Donor vehicle it is a great idea to have the motor rebuilt. It is out of the vehicle, do it now. Should cost around $1500 depending on how crazy you get. Cheap insurance. I don’t want to ever pull my motor out of my Explorer again. So rebuild it now. If you’re using an automatic, you’ll need to get Advance Adapters kit. It’s about $900 bucks and includes the output shaft. Have a good tranny shop rebuild your tranny using the new output shaft that fits your Transfer case. If you’re using a manual tranny, I don’t know what to tell you. Refer back to paragraph one.

Other thoughts…..

Make sure you line the motor up correctly. If the motor mounts are not lined up right then you will have the back of the transfercase to far left or right, and it’s time to start over. Pull the motor and reweld mounts.

Fuel Rails….This stuff is expensive. You can hook up the fuel lines on a 94 XLT using 96V8 Explorer parts. It's 4 separate parts and cost about $180.00 ( Go to a salvage ) The fuel rails connect at the back of the intake into extension lines that hook directly to the hardlines coming from the gas tank. Custom fuel line is expensive too, so refer to paragraph 1 and decide which route you want to go.

Exhaust…This is a mess on my truck. I went the shortcut route and tried to use Mustang Shorty headers. They did not work on my truck. Purchase the custom headers from Kaufman or one of the other vendors. Once past the manifolds I have a nice 2 ½” true dual set-up with Cat Convs. & 02’s. I will pass emissions.

Wiring….. This was another tough area. The explorer uses a fuse relay panel and the mustangs don’t. So I had to somehow merge the mustang and Explorer Harness. A good friend on this board did this for me. Fox wiring charges $600 for a new harness, but it bypasses the Fuse relays. I wanted it to be factory looking under the hood so I paid a friend to do this wiring for me.

Cost…..Well that’s hard to nail down. There are bargains everywhere if you do your homework. My estimated cost is between 5 & 7K right now. Can’t get an exact cost due to several issues that occurred during this project. It is not a cheap conversion. It does make swapping to a solid axle front seem less painful to the wallet though.

At this time my project is still in progress. I ran out of time, so I’m using money to finish the project. I have another friend finishing the truck. He is being paid well for what is left. I saw first hand the LT1 vette motor he put in another friend’s jeep. It looked factory, so I asked if he could finish mine. It was hard to find a shop to do this project because of all the potential for custom or fabricating work to make this combo work. I am glad I stumble across him. I’m hoping to have this finished this year or maybe in January. Plan on seeing everyone in Phoenix!


Good Luck and enjoy.
 



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Speedfreak,
You and I both have installed a 92-93 T-bird 5.0 H.O. in our 91-94 non body lifted explorers. We both still have yet to install our heater/AC boxes.

Even with my curved intake and low profile valve covers, my heater box would still have to be cut in to. The valve cover seems to still want to stick in to the very bottom of the heater box. Also, concerning the curved intake. It seems as if the external T-bird EGR is right where the top tube(from the explorer Heater/AC box) will be. What I am saying, is I am worried about the accumulator hitting that EGR.

I did notice that your engine is sitting farther forward than mine. but not by much. (1 inch)

Anyway, from the looks of it, it doesnt look like I can get the AC accumulator in there w/out a body lift. Personally I hate body lifts, but it looks like I'm gonna give in to a 3inch body lift!
I'm moving to Arizona, and having Air Conditioning is not an option, it's a requirement! The Body lift should raise the Accumulator tube from the box above the intake, giving me more room for the acculator and AC equipment.

Let me know what you think about this. Maybe you'll get around to installing your AC box and equipment before me. If so, Id like to see some pics.
hcclear.jpg

hccut.jpg
 



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I won't be installing the A/C back into my truck actually, there are a couple of reasons for that but the most obvious is that I really don't need it in the mild climate that I am in. It's also illegal to refill R-12 up here and I really don't feel like getting and changing all of the seals to swap to R-134a. I also plan on turning my compressor into an on board air system for some serious trail tooling. I will be keeping my A/C components for possible future use though.

I will however post my pics of the non A/C box once it is modified and installed.

As for your dryer situation you may want to hit a local wrecking yard and find a dryer unit that will give you more clearance and work with your system. One of the nicest things about Ford is that most things will interchange it you can modify it slightly or turn it another direction.
 






I'm interested in doing the 5.0L swap in my '95 sport. I have no idea where to even start! What would i get the motor from? I still want to keep 4wd and preferably the same transfer case. This stuff is all too confusing, but i want to do this to my X!! please help me out!
 






Originally posted by IAmTodd
I'm interested in doing the 5.0L swap in my '95 sport. I have no idea where to even start! What would i get the motor from? I still want to keep 4wd and preferably the same transfer case. This stuff is all too confusing, but i want to do this to my X!! please help me out!
Let me ask you this. If your going through all the trouble of a 5.0, then why are you gonna retain your grocery getter transfer case? Switch to a manual 1354!
 






I have no idea wat most of this means and i want it to be as simple as possible. Sorry u disagree w/me but i am on a very limited income and i would like to spend as little money as possible and make the modifications as little as possible!!
 






Originally posted by Jason_25

Let me ask you this. If your going through all the trouble of a 5.0, then why are you gonna retain your grocery getter transfer case? Switch to a manual 1354!

Jason_25

One thing about changing to a manual 1354 during the 5.0 swap You will have to Fab your own Shift lever mounts since the adaptors dont come with the Mounting holes.
 






A swap in your truck relatively simple in that the '96 Explorer had the 5.0L option. If your can find a 5.0L truck at a wrecking yard and bolt everying in with exception to the transfer case, that would be easiest, or some modifications like a custom harness, but use stock mounts, exhaust, AOD and a 5.0L from a donor vehicle. You don't even have to worry about the air box because on the newer trucks is is moved over almost 2 inches to the passenger side for clearance.
 






NICE! wat truck would i get this out of? would my original transger case bolt right up to it? i've heard things about so kind of difference between the 95 and below cars and the 96 and above cars, something w/the electrical? would this apply to mine? thanx
 






I have a '91 XLT with a 5 speed manual. My 4.0 is about to go and it looks like $3-4,000 for a new one. I'm thinking a 5.0 would be sweet, but I don't know if I can use my original tranny and t-case. Could the stock tranny handle a 5.0 or should a get something tougher?
 






It would definitely be adviseable to upgrade the tranny, neither the A4LD or the 5spd Mazda are even strong enough for the 4.0L. You can still use your transfer case though, so far it seems quite adequate for the job. Look through an Advanced Adapters catalog and see what type of options you may have for a standard tranny adapter for the conversion.
 






concerning your tranny, you have no choice.....niether the A4ld or Mazda 5spd will bolt up. (too small)

:rolleyes: Also, 3-4K for a new 4.0 sounds way too high.
You should be able to get a freshly rebuilt engine for under $2,000.

A V8 conversion will cost around 4-10 K depending on how crazy you get. exempt: (unless of course you are speedfreak, and are able to score the deals) :D

Good Luck...................and read through all the post on this section to learn more info concerning all the details of the swap! :)

Al
 






Hey, I just like doing thinks the less expensive way (not necessarily the cheaper way though.)


I still think that this conversion can be done cheaper than dropping a reman 4.0L, how long will the new 4.0L and same pathetic tranny last until more money is dropped into it to keep it running. With the 5.0L swap and the right choice of tranny, you get a far more dependable drive train. I had an old '86 5.0L that had 400,000kms on it that went through 2 cars and was still going strong when the second car got written off.(it ran 13.08 in the quarter at about the 320,000kms mark)
 






So if I got a 5.0, and rebuilt it,and used a 5 speed manual (which one is best?), could I get 100k miles out of it? I need my X to last a few more years, and if I can get a 5.0 for around what 4.0 would cost, I would drop in a 5.0.
 






All of the conversion costs can actually cost more than the engine
 






yup, motor is cheap, its all the little things that add up real fast, if you cant fab mounts yourself or get the perfect swap motor/parts you will rack up cost fast...
most of the big stuff you can expect are...
Motor, front accessories, 5.0 EEC (computer), headders/exaust, trans, tailshaft adaptor (aod to stock transfer case)
other parts that will rack up price are radiator, motor mounts, having the wiring done if you cant do it

research... lots of research is the best way to get a swap done :) plan ahead also, if you plan to do the swap yourself learn the wiring first, gather all your parts well ahead of time and allow for stuff that you didnt expect...
 






My little project

I have a 92 exploder. The tranny kept going out so I decided to throw a 302 in it.

I will make this kinda short and sweet. I found a donor car, a 79 Thunderbird with a 351w. I had all ready put a 302 in the rig, so I was half way done. The 302 had a cracked cylinder. Well, a 351w is a very tight fit, very. I have a 6" suspension and a 3 body, so I had some room. I still had to bend the body seem on the firewall. I put a c-5/eletronic tranfercase out of a 84 bronco. I put a Chevy s-10 radiator in front of the core support, behind the grill. I then mounted a dual electric fan setup. And of course the remote oil filter. Just in case you all try this, you need to have a set of 302 exhaust manifolds, the stock 351w set hits the steering.

All in all it was not to bad, and I did not have to weld anything, except the exhaust. You can use a set of 70 Ford Van motor mounts, and drill a new hole in the cross member for it to bolt down. You will need a 1/4 thick peice of steel for each motor mount. This plate goes between the engine and the mounts. Keeps the oil pan up and a little extra space for the steering.

I took it out to the races last weekend, it goes great. It has not had any problems with over heating yet, and it was 90 all weekend.

Oh yeah. The tranny combo will sit higher under the rig, so you will need a 3 1/2 rectangle tubing to put in there so you can use the stock crossmember. The drivelines will have to be shortened in front and lenghted in back.

It was not to bad, I wish I would have known the 302 was bad though. Anyone who tells you a 351w is the same size as a 302, tell them bull. They are atleast 2 inches wider and taller.

Well, I gotta blast. I will throw a pic on here this weekend for you all to see. She's one bad chicky do now.
 






Whoops

I would have to guess I only put a grand into the whole thing. I did all the work myself, except the drive lines.

It is not cobbed together, and I would trust it to take me anywhere. So all of you can build one yourself for around the same costs.
 






Finding a donor car is always a cheap way to go.
You saved a lot of money by using a Carbuerated setup instead of Electronic fuel injected too. Living in Washington, I am sure you were also able to bypass the emission equipment and the need for air conditioning.

Good Luck.
Al
 






I kept the A/C, but you are correct on emissions.

I actually bought three donors over a course of a year. First I bought a 84 Grand Marquis. It turned out to have a glogged oil pump, and did not want to rebuild it.

The second was a 70 ford van, I got alot of stuff off of it, even though the block had cracks, unkown to me when I paid 100.00 for it.

The third was the thunderbird, which I only kept the 351w.

All and all I really like it. With the 351 though, the heater, A/C box is really small now. I figure I will just use the pump for a compressor and skip out on the heater and A/C. Who needs them, right. My exploder was more purposally built for the hills, yet it is still pretty.
 



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I have a question what would i need to do a swap on my 2001 Ex Sport. I was told i needed an engine thats the same year. Is this true and if so what else besides the Engine, Transmissin, and computer do i need. Thanks any help would be greatly appreciated.
 






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