SAS The start!

[Blee1099]

Would have to be a 1354 manual or 1350.. 95 only available engine was the 4.0 OHV

 

[yellowford]

My reply took to long Blee beat me to it

i like the width of the dana 30..think im going with 4.10s on a d30 with 35s as my set up. maybe 5.5 springs or maybe 6-6.5 coil spring for more height but i dont want to tip on turning corners..but will a rear expedition driveshaft fit the rear when done with all the lift??..or i have a sec gen will the stock dshaft work??..i need help on thoughts with that for rear and front.

im looking into a manual tcase a 4406 depends if i have room(id like to use the smallest one possible) unless i can keep it automatic tcase but i heard they dont work as good.

You have more research to do the 4406 is only for Explorers with the 5.0. For your truck your going to want the bw1354 manual, and the stock driveshafts should bolt right up. The dana 30 from a 1987-1995 wrangler will be high pinion and set up for leafs but is going to have a dissconnecting shaft on the passenger side, somewhere in 94 or 95 it got the stronger u-joints. Dana 30 from XJ cherokee will be high pinion up to 1999 then it goes to low pinion, with the D30 from a XJ you want 95 and up as it came with the stronger u-joints and look for one that has a solid shaft on the passenger side, this axle will be set up for a 4 link with panhard bar. The 1993-1998 ZJ Grand cherokee is something you will want to avoid as its low pinion and uses CV shafts instead of u-joints but these can be swapped out for XJ or TJ shafts. The TJ wrangler is virtually the same as the XJ axle but will be low pinion. The wagoneer Dana 44 axles are just a little bit wider than stock but all came with leaf springs and you will need to look for certain years to get drivers side drop and make sure it doesn't have the passenger side dissconnecting axle shaft. The Early Bronco axles will be close to the stock width as well but will have weaker axle shafts than later Dana 44 and you will pretty much only want 76-77 as they came with disc brakes.

Hopefully that gives you some more information about axles.

And honestly I'm in the same boat as you 20 and in college there is no way I would be taking on a SAS right now. Personal opinion here is that you should either find a truck that already has a SAS swap done or go and buy a Jeep that came from the factory with a solid front.

 

[Lacky01]

just curious....

whats the deal with the disconnecting passenger axle? I just got a D30 from an 88 XJ and it has the vacuum disconnect. is that the same idea as locking hubs?

 

[SuRrEaLNJ]

You have more research

5 seconds on Google:

reading dosnt seem to be this kids thing

 

[yellowford]

just curious....

whats the deal with the disconnecting passenger axle? I just got a D30 from an 88 XJ and it has the vacuum disconnect. is that the same idea as locking hubs?

This should help you with some more information about your axle.
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Dana30.htm
The vacuum disconnect disengages the passenger side inner axle shaft and is prone to failure plus it only works with an open diff. Also without having the right vacuum going to the switch you will need to either buy a kit to use a cable engage kit or replace the shaft with one from a TJ or XJ that came without the vacuum dissconnect.



Hi-Jack over

 

[Lacky01]

Hi-Jack over

thank you very much

[/hijack]

 

[mrbird09]

so if i find a donor 1984-2001 Cherokee (XJ) - Reverse Cut can i remove the d30 from it with all the suspension components? do i have to run my front shaft on my driver side and can i find a transfer case to line up on the driver side too?? maybe a jeep t-case?

 

[lounge lizard]

As I sit here shaking my head I wonder,

have you ever just crawled under your truck and just looked at it??

just lay under it and imagine what you have to do to it? where the pumpkin for the front rear is?
which side the drive shaft comes off the transfer case and what is in the path that might be an obstruction?

And before you go and shoot your mouth off! YES! I have for hours! looking at different things, checking angles, measuring brackets mounting tabs frame widths.

I just didn't wake up one day and say " I wanna do a solid front axle! "





so if i find a donor 1984-2001 Cherokee (XJ) - Reverse Cut can i remove the d30 from it with all the suspension components? do i have to run my front shaft on my driver side and can i find a transfer case to line up on the driver side too?? maybe a jeep t-case?

this sounds like a person who has absolutely no clue as to what he is talking about or even how to go about it.

#1
you need and axle that has a driver side drop for the transfer case. do you know what that means?
#2
if you find this axle, suspension will be determined by what this axle already is tailored to.
unless you want to do major rework on something, spending time and money needlessly to convert from one kind of spring to another.

#3
getting all the little things in order to make this axle work under your truck. not the big ticket items but the small stuff that always get left behind

I'm not trying to blast you, but I have spent a few years getting my axle together, researching different parts and building parts to make it work the way I want it to.

reading threads and taking the information and converting into working designs to save me some aggravation that some of these guys went through.

 

[DB_1]

so if i find a donor 1984-2001 Cherokee (XJ) - Reverse Cut can i remove the d30 from it with all the suspension components? do i have to run my front shaft on my driver side and can i find a transfer case to line up on the driver side too?? maybe a jeep t-case?

this sounds like a person who has absolutely no clue as to what he is talking about or even how to go about it.

#1
you need and axle that has a driver side drop for the transfer case. do you know what that means?
#2
if you find this axle, suspension will be determined by what this axle already is tailored to.
unless you want to do major rework on something, spending time and money needlessly to convert from one kind of spring to another.

#3
getting all the little things in order to make this axle work under your truck. not the big ticket items but the small stuff that always get left behind

I'm not trying to blast you, but I have spent a few years getting my axle together, researching different parts and building parts to make it work the way I want it to.

reading threads and taking the information and converting into working designs to save me some aggravation that some of these guys went through.

Seems like a lot of effort to swap in an axle that is generally weaker than what you already have BUT whatever axle you decide to swap in, it really isn't any easier to use the suspension that the axle comes with.
Things don't always line up the way you want and besides it's a good time to upgrade brackets and whatnot. The factory stuff is usually thin and cheesy and there's enough companies out there that offer much better stuff that you can just weld on.

You're pretty much locked in to a drivers drop axle since that's what your t-case is. You have 2 expensive options otherwise, Advance Adapters could probably make you a t-case that is passenger drop or do a 700r4 tranny swap which would really open up your t-case options.

Doing an SAS in not a bolt in deal, there's gonna be some fabbing and welding no matter which route you take.

 

[mrbird09]

yea i realize that from doing RESEARCH!.I have done research and it looks like people find ways to make it work. i know its not a bolt on process but who said i was even doing the swap. i got a local guy that has done years and hundreds of swaps to all kinds of cars

 

[lounge lizard]

o.k.

so here is where I get lost in this charade.

if this guy has done hundreds of swaps on all kinds of cars and trucks

then you should be able to get a cut list from him of all the parts he needs to do this swap.

there is a 4x4 shop right down the road from em and if I wanted them to do the swap for me!
they will give me a cut list of all the parts they need to do a swap.
the correct axle
springs
shocks
brackets
brake lines
drive shafts

everything I need to get for them to do the swap or the parts that they will get to do the swap and the prices it will cost them.
and they will guarantee a time frame when it will be done.

and these guys have done thousands oif truck swaps.

so I am still really lost as to this whole thread. sorry! I'm from Missouri!

 

[mrbird09]

sorry but im not trying to confuse anyone here. its just the more research i do the more ideas i get haha. but i did ask a shop locally and they are giving me an estimate. this guys cuts pretty good deals if it local and have the parts. im talking to him now as we speak and should come to a conclusion soon. emails take too long

 

[Baddecision93]

yea i realize that from doing RESEARCH!.I have done research and it looks like people find ways to make it work. i know its not a bolt on process but who said i was even doing the swap. i got a local guy that has done years and hundreds of swaps to all kinds of cars

Reading this thread to glean info on where to even start doing an SAS and I can't seem to get past getting hung up on one particular point.

i know its not a bolt on process but who said i was even doing the swap.

Help me out here...I'm slow.

I've seen gorgeous SAS Explorers for under $5000. Whole trucks. Running trucks. SAS finished.
If someone else is doing the work how does it make any more sense than buying a finished truck?

I'm just really, really confused.
I know Lounge, we've covered this, but I keep reading and re-reading and I can't see where he's answered this.
What's the difference?
I'm having a really hard time getting past this one point.

 

[lounge lizard]

I'm with ya Badd!

there is one thing building your own axle swap ( as I'm doing) and there is having some one else install one for you.
and then there is just buying a rig already built.

if you are building your own axle swap you would be doing research to get the right pieces.

if someone is installing one for you, they usually give you a cut sheet for parts and prices ( if they really know what they are doing and have done it before) so you would know the price up front.

and then buying a built rig, priced as is for the work that has been done to the rig.