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SEVERE brake fade with AutoZone Ceramics

spta97

Explorer Addict
Joined
June 12, 2003
Messages
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City, State
NY, NY
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 5.0 AWD
Today I was stuck in serious stop and go traffic (2 hours for 35 miles - 65 degrees) and I got an openening where I was able to really gun it. When the next block of cars came up I hit the brakes and it felt like my pads were replaced with a wet sponge.

I have the AutoZone (Duralast?) rotors and ceramic pads. Is this common? I know the brakes were pretty hot but it was ridiculous how little stopping power I had. Normally these pads have been great but the fade was just too much today to the point where I almost hit another car.

Is this common for ceramics in general or AutoZone ceramics? If anything, I thought cermamics were more resistant to fade but I got them due to the extremely low dust (which I love).
 



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Yikes! Gotta hate that.

I also thought the ceramics were the way to go. Did you flush the brake fluid when you did the brakes last? Maybe its moisture in the lines boiling? ...just a guess...
 


















If your pedal went soft, it was likely not a problem with the pad, but a problem with the brake fluid. Brake fluid should be replaced at least yearly, as it absorbs water which lowers its boiling point.
 






Jefe said:
If your pedal went soft, it was likely not a problem with the pad, but a problem with the brake fluid. Brake fluid should be replaced at least yearly, as it absorbs water which lowers its boiling point.

How do I replace my fluid as I have ceramic brakes from Advance Auto Parts and I have to press on my pedal pretty hard to brake my truck
 






I hate Ceramic brake pads, they make a ton of noise! I plan to replace my ceramics next time I have the front end apart.

To change the brake fluid, top of your reservoir and put the lid back on. Do the brake bleeding procedure, keep adding fluid so you don't get air in your system, do this until you get clean and clear fluid at the caliper.
 






It's a little complicated to bleed the brakes on certain models with ABS. Sometimes you could just pull the ABS fuse, and bleed them like any other brake system. Other times you will need a special tool for cycling the solenoid block. Some systems have a rear valve (some sort of proportioning valve) which has to be bled from a fitting on it.
 






I initially thought about the brake fluid but I bled them about 2 months ago and did notice that the peddle was firmer so I concluded the the job was done right.

The brakes were so hot I could smell them - I'm pretty sure it was either the pads or the rotors getting so hot due to the ceramics.
 






spta97 said:
I initially thought about the brake fluid but I bled them about 2 months ago and did notice that the peddle was firmer so I concluded the the job was done right.

The brakes were so hot I could smell them - I'm pretty sure it was either the pads or the rotors getting so hot due to the ceramics.


Might be a good idea to upgrade your rotors to the high performance slotted and drilled rotors. They will help alot.. Also, flush the brake fluid and put Synthetic Brake Fluid.. they will handle higher temps.

-Tim
 






I read on another site that ceramics arent reccomended for towing because their gripping power isnt as good as regular brakes....greatttt
 


















I would hate to switch them since the scenario that caused it is not something I do everyday. Also, I will say that normally the cermaics bite much better than the stock pads ever did. I just worry because I plan to use them on other cars (including the GFs Mini Cooper).

The low dust is key for me.
 






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