Shaved No-slip pin

[mynameisaric]

yes i know... you are NOT supposed to shave the pin on the no-slip. but my installer did. it was fine at first, but now (6,000 miles later) it is really acting up. my passenger side rear tire just spins in the rain. i cant do a normal take off or i'll just spin forever, and in the snow it is rediculous. dry pavement it is ok, but if i get on it, i can break the passenger rear tire loose and keep it going for a good 20-25 feet. for a while it would just slip a little and then catch and i'd have traction to both wheels, but not now. 90% of the time i have one wheel drive(worse than spider gears) and about 10% of the time it locks up and i can take off without chirping or not moving anywhere in the rain.


ANyway, i'm going to crack the rear diff and shave the inner part of 2 teeth down and slide in a new pin(i have a replacement powertrax pin).

my question is, is it that easy? how do i get the retaining/roll pin out and then the cross shaft pin? how do they come out? i just want to know what i'm in for. should i use an angle grinder or a die grinder? i'm thinkin a die grinder since it will be easier to get it in there. thanks in advance.

 

[ExplorerDMB]

I used a die grinder on my gears.

-Drew

 

['97 V8]

COuldnt you take it back and tell the installer wtf, you messed up my locker?

 

[Creager]

The pin should have nothing to do with your problem... you are talking about the carrier cross pin, correct? If it was broken, you wouldnt be moving very much. Your locker sounds worn out.

Does powertrax use springs and pins to keep tension on the locker? Aussie locker uses something like that, but it doesnt actually have anything to do with locking, it just keeps the cam gears from 'floating' too much.

take off the cover, pull the locker out. Figure what part is worn enough to allow one wheel spin. Im thinking you need a new locker, not a new pin. But you never know, take the cover off.

 

[mynameisaric]

my installer didnt want to shave a gear because it would void my warranty on my gears. and this guy is like 50 miles away. i just dont feel like driving that far to have someone do something i can do in my driveway. i've got 2 spare pins (wasnt sure if he shaved the stock pin or the powertrax, so i bought another... so now i have 2 powertrax pins) i'm going to try putting in a whole pin and see if it solves my problems. i hope my locker isnt broken. it still locks up sometimes. and i know theres been other reported cases of the locker acting up due to a shaved pin and once a whole pin was slid in, the problems went away.

 

[JDraper]

The pin should have nothing to do with your problem... you are talking about the carrier cross pin, correct? If it was broken, you wouldnt be moving very much. Your locker sounds worn out.

Does powertrax use springs and pins to keep tension on the locker? Aussie locker uses something like that, but it doesnt actually have anything to do with locking, it just keeps the cam gears from 'floating' too much.

take off the cover, pull the locker out. Figure what part is worn enough to allow one wheel spin. Im thinking you need a new locker, not a new pin. But you never know, take the cover off.

In the powertrax, shaving the pin will fubar the operation of the unit because of it's design. The pin is what forces the inner paddles to lock into the main housing. If the pin is shaved it won't work properly.

This issue has come up many times. As long as the locker didn't suffer any damage due to the pin being shaved, you should be able to grind the gear slightly and put in a new cross pin.

 

[mynameisaric]

so theres a possibility that the locker is trashed? how would i know?

my instaler called powertrax while i was at the shop and put the powertrax guy on the speaker. my installer asked him if the pin was shaved on a certain side, if it wouldnt mess up operation, and the powertrax guy told him it wouldnt. its supposed to be shaved on the non-ramping surface or something like that. so i thought it was ok. but this winter sucked. plus not having 4x4 high, i had to either spin one tire to get around town, or top out at 25 mph in 4x4 low. ugh.... o well. hopefully sliding in a whole pin will solve my problems and nothing is permanently screwed up, and i'll have true 2wd.

 

[mynameisaric]

got the new pin in, test drove it, seemed to work perfect now. wont know till i really drive it around a while. i thought it was goin to be a little more complicated than it was. i just cracked the cover and spent most of the time getting all the old rtv sealant off of the cover and diff housing. pulled the old pin out with out a problem, but then all the springs fell out so i had to refer to my manual and see where those went, went head and clearanced the gear teeth for the new pin, then put all the springs back in place and put the new pin in(the one with no shaving at all). it was quiet the tight fit, but nothing a wood block and bfh couldnt handle. put new rtv on and bolted the cover to 30 or 35 lbs(whatever haynes manual says) and changed the t-case fluid while i waited for it to dry and then put the oil back in. so hopefully, my truck should move in the rain and snow in just 2 wheel drive. (obviously it will still slip some, but it cant be worse than how it was)

 

[offroader_69_me]

i had the same problem, after grinding the gears and putting in a new pin, all was fine for about another year and a half or so then I finally blew the locker up.... see Moab '05 CLICK CLICK BOOM!

 

[mynameisaric]

tried lookin for it.. couldnt find it. did you have a lock-rite or no-slip?