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shot oil pump???

Lefy

Well-Known Member
Joined
December 13, 2002
Messages
734
Reaction score
2
City, State
Westchester, NY
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 Sport 4x4 4.0 SOHC
i've got some questions regarding oil pumps.
i was reading that you know a decent amount about that type of stuff..

my oil gauge started going a little crazy during a ski trip about a mounth ago . i was cruising at about 75 for a good 2and a half hours and the gauge started flicking back and forth It worried me but it went away and i thought it was electrical glitch..

then the other day it started going crazy bouncing back and forth and all over the place. and it went dead as i pulled into my street. I stopped listened to the engine and heard what i thought was lifter chatter. but i'm not sure. It was sorta like metal tapping. i turned her off and checked oil level seems fine. but i don't know if the pump is dead and i'm too scared to drive her anywhere so she is sitting in the drive way for about two days while i figured out what was going on.. I don't think it's not my sender but my pump.
turned her on again today to check it out and it definately sounds like lifter rattle. and it started to smell kinda bad after running for 2 minutes so i turned her off.
hope i didn't fub anything up.

I've been quoted 500-1000 for a oil pump change.
is this anything that i could do myself. I'm driving a 98 sport. 4.0sohc. and it's got 126000 miles so i'm thinking it's the pump after that amount of miles.

thanks for any info
:( :mad: :( :mad: :( :mad:
 



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DAM OIL PUMP

HEY LEFTY

I had a huge problem tracking this down on my "X" and i had a liflter rattle noise and really really bad fuel economy freeway driving but my oil needle on the dash did not move it continued to show fine and Ford ended up changing the cam chain tensioner and guides twice (which soften the noise a little) but it was still there, if you open the oil cap you should here a tapping noise and that's it!!!
so Ford went on a long shot and replaced the OIL pump and found that it was acctually Faulty and they felt so dump as we were telling them that but they persisted on it being the CAm chain tensioner. So anyway it was supose to be a warranty job but i had to pay half (long story) and it took 2 weeks only because they had to order the pump from the states. I did a lot of driving with this problem about 10,000 km's before they found it and fixed it and there was no damage to my "X" and as soon as they changed the oil pump the fuel economy went better than before and the noise was gone and yes it cost about $700AUSD to fix mine.
i think if you get a Haynes manual you should be able to do it yourself and the money you dont spend on the LABOUR you can spend on TOOL's and have a ball fixing it.
 






thanks

how bad was your gas mileage before you got it fixed cause i'll get about 10-11 miles city and about 16 highway

i'm hoping if it is my oil pump, that changing it will get rid of the noise.

my truck made alot of noise before i even found i have this problem, i always thought it was the cam chain tensioner but didn't have money and a warentee to pick it up. i've got a 126000 miles how many did you have when you found you had this problem.

my truck sounded like a chain rattleing back and forth before i found out about this problem. sorta like a diesel but not quite.
well now it definatly sounds worse, and i ain't driving it till I find out the problem.
 






My MPG were real bad and i am talking in KM's here ok on a full tank a would get about 400 Km's straight highway driving and after i fixed it i now get 500-600 Km's on average about 540km's.
I had mine rattling like a diesal from about 90,000-100500 Km's Ford replaced the Cam chaintensioner with a bigger one but it would still rattle substatially softer and then they changed the oil punp and all was fixed i think they actually tested the oil pump and found it faulty or maybe after they pulled it out i cant remember but i am pretty confident it is your oil pump as my oil guage said normal presure all the time and the oil pump was just not giving it enough so i had noisey lifters.
 






On the 4 L SOHC, I believe that you have to take the engine out to get at the oil pump. Above the oil pan is a "ladder" which has to be removed to get at the oil pump.

While its out, you might as well replace a few other things like the timing chains.

You might want to replace the oil sending unit, as well as manually checking the oil pressure before deciding what to do.


Keep us informed of what you do.
 






Lefy, if you never had the cam chain tensioners and cassettes replaced, chances are the plastic pieces broke off, clogged your oil pump/passages and FUBARed your engine.... as in your gonna need a new one.
 






i'm checking my oil pressure today as soon as i get of work and i also checked underneath and there is no crossmember in the way on my oil pan. the only thing that even remotely looks in the way is the front halfdrive shaft from the front dif but it still looks like I can wiggle the pan back and forth and out.

my trucks a 98 sport do you know anyone who has switched the pump on a 2nd gen.

I think as long as there isn't anything crazy going on inside i should be able to get to the pump. from the picks in my haines manual.

any opinions
thanks.
also i still haven't found my oil sender where the hell is it.
 






Was the oil gauge fluxuating between normal and low or was it all over the place? explorer's have whats called a dummy oil gauge. All the oil gauge does is show you if you have pressure it doesnt tell you how much there is. Youre on the right track in doing a pressure test. also what i would do is go out and buy a real oil pressure gauge and put that in your truck, that way you will know for certian if you have pressure or not.
 






Lefy,

Above that oil pan on the 4L SOHC is a "ladder"--an "extender" several inches high held on by several bolts. Above the ladder is the oil pump. My Chiltons repair manual says the engine has to be removed. PLEASE tell us if this is wrong.

The oil sending unit in behind the lower radiator hose on the drivers side. It's tough to find and tough to remove, but not too bad.

Keep us informed of how it goes.
 






a friend of mine was able to change an oil pump on an 88 bronco II by unbolting the pan and moving it around just enough for him to get in there, the oil pump went and the engine eventually crapped out so he rebuilt the motor and put a new clutch in it but the truck only ended up lasting another year... so if i was you id do it the right way. but thats my 2 cents.
 






so namity your point is what what would be the right thing???

id ont get your point about the bronco??
my truck is a 98 not 88 and i don't get the whole point of the engine rebiuld having anything to do with me.

my engine is fine but i think my oil pumps not pumping right.

and rebiult motors can run for a long time if done right.
i know my dad had his work trucks motor rebiult after 150000 a ford of course and it run like new after and is still running good. now 100000 more miles later and 3 years of beating the **** out of it.

on the other hand he went cheap on the rebiuld of his old chevy with a 350 four barrel and it died six mounths later..


the way it's looking right now is that if my pump is dead and i can't do it myself, i may get a remanufactered 4.0 from ford maybe even a 5.0 but i don't know if the tranny can take it. instead of paying 1000 bucks

now does any one know a easy way tyo get the oilsender out, I can't get to it with my big hands. and getting a wrench on there is nearly impossible.
 






my point was if youre gonna do it.... do it right dont do it halfassed.
 






hey, the engine is probably still kicking around somewhere, it's noisy, but still running, I have faith. The tranny quit on the B2, that's when I got fed up with it. And fixing the oil pump was a real PITA, but it was done with the engine still in the truck.:D
 






Originally posted by Muskrat
hey, the engine is probably still kicking around somewhere, it's noisy, but still running, I have faith. The tranny quit on the B2, that's when I got fed up with it. And fixing the oil pump was a real PITA, but it was done with the engine still in the truck.:D

Im sorry when you have to shout over the valve knock its not good. :D :p
 






just turn the stereo up:D Thats what the rockford 10" punches were for
 






Lefy,

The oil sending unit is tough to replace.

I had the front end of my Sport off the ground, and I was under it on a creeper. I removed the single lead wire to the unit, and used a sending unit socket to remove it. I don't think a wrench can be used.

Use a drop light because it's dark under there--if I recall I think that I had to reach up between the steering linkages, and that I could not completely see the entire sending unit--I had to feel it.

If I'm not helpful just say so and I'll stop posting.

And be sure to tell us about replacing the oil pump--someday maybe I'll have to do it.
 






ok i got the oil sender out after cursing, fiddleing, and hammering away :D

i got too it by removing the wheel and pulling back a part of the inner fender that was made of a rubber cloth material. and i had a straight view of it through the fender. got the socket on from underneath used a Husky 1-1/16 impact socket (the black one used on air impact wrenchs) cause it's the only one we had that fit it worked fine.

ok got her on some what and there was a rubber hose on the right side that wasn't letting me get the socket on fully. so through the inner fender i got about a foot worth of extensions(about 4 for me) till i could reach the socket, then attached a slightly smaller socket to my extensions. I pushed the extensions and smaller socket against the other socket and hammered on the end of my ratchet which was attached to my extensions. this pushed my socket tight on the oil sender easily. then once it was on I loosened the sender through the fender opening.

this worked like a charm.

but bad news once i got the oil pressure gauge on good.
this took some fiddleing too.
but i got it on good.

started her up and heard the tapping which makes me wanna cry litterally. :(
well i ran her for about 30-45 seconds and the gauge didn't move at all. :(

dam
so my oil pump is shot or as a friend of mine who is a mechanic also suggested that maybe the driveshaft for the pump is snapped. what do you guys think.
he said that oil pumps usually last the life of the vehical.
and suggested that i pull my distributer which he said spins the pump driveshaft. he said if it's broken i'll be able to tell right then and there by pushing a magnet tipped screwdriver down the distributer hole and seeing if the rod is broken.

My question is i don't think my 4.0 sohc has a mechanicall distributer right ????? :( :(
that spins the driveshaft.
I think it runs off something else.

so what should i try now. what is stopping me from dropping the pan and switching the oil pump. It looks like I have plenty of room to remove the pan. I think this is what my next try is gonna be. if this fails. i think my rims and tires are gonna have to wait till fall cause i'll most likely be a grand down after the mechanics finish rapeing me because no one wants to pull an engine from a truck. no one.


sorry about this very long winded post. but i'm seriously lost and no one with a 4.0sohc has posted anything
about this problem. I did search for it like 10 times.and I'm sorry for my bad grammer. I'm to pissed to proof read.

thanks for any and all help you can give me
 






Lefty i am pretty sure it is your oil pump as i had to change mine at 90,000kms so i dont think they last a lifetime anyway Ford did it in under a couple of hours so i dought that you'll need to pull the engine out or anything!
 






timming chain tensioners

what kind of noise do the timming chain tennsioners and guides make when they are about to pack up?
We have a funny tinny ting engine rattle.:confused:
 



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TCT

The sound is like a marble in a tin can so they say and it sounded like that on mine!

ALSO there is another sound that is just like that. It is the crank shaft balancer. it keeps the balance of the motor. it does not need to be replaced if bad but does make the motor run smoother.

Had both on my X break! they are both prone to this prob. I have had the cam shaft ten replaced 4 times.

Looking forward to the end of my payments in a year so I can rip that crap out of there. Here comes a 351+.

Good luck.
 






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