Should I get the "Protector Treatment" for my new Limited?

[MevesEx]

Hey guys, I need some advice from you fine intelligent folks...

Just ordered a 2014 Limited and am excited as can be. My dealer offered the "Protector Treament", a set of different treaments to protect the paint, interior, rustproofing, etc - here's the link - http://pc.ecpinc.net/productsPrograms.asp?C1=5

Here's what he sent me regarding the deal:
"On the Protection Pkg; it is a type of Poly Sealant that goes on the paint w/a random orbital applicator, the interior poly is applied at 300psi so it becomes part of the leather, the Sound Shield (undercoating) is a tar based resin that is applied to all the bare metals underneath your Explorer (this also make it quieter inside) and the Rustproofing is also a tar based resin that is injected through the existing drain holes, filling all the cavities of your Explorer. Treatment is typically done at an offsite facility. It can be done in 1 day and it can be done before you pick up the Explorer. Curing/drying is immediate."

He said they would give it to me at "their cost" of $1200.

So what do you guys think? Bad deal? Good deal? I live outside of Chicago so have harsh winters and lots of roadsalt etc.

Thanks so much for any help!

Steve :exp:

 

[tmg19103]

You can buy the same quality product for the exterior for $80.00 and do it yourself. I have read all the professional reviews on it and it works.

I have done this for all my cars at a fraction of dealer cost. About to get around to sealing my new (but used) Ex.

Great for headlights too to prevent them from the fading/hazing the plastic housings often do over time.

If you don't trust yourself to do it, a pro detail specialist will do it for $200 to $250.

If you have a lighter color car, no concerns. A black or real dark car could show streaks so you might want a pro to do that, but I pulled it off on my jet black Saab just fine, but I might as well be professional detailer with a couple thousand bucks worth of stuff you will see on the below site, including a Porter Cable and every cut of pads, swirl removers, polishes, sealants, waxes, quick detail sprays under the sun, but I have weaned it down to a few great products over the years.

With Opti-Coat all I really add is Optimum Instant Detailer after a wash in 10 quick minutes, though sometimes I'll throw a wax on, but not needed for protection due to the Opti-Coat, which has been going strong on my Saab for over 4 years. If I have time and feel like a little more depth to the finish from an appearance standpoint, I'll throw some wax on.

http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-opti-coat.html

For interior leather I use Lexol. Great stuff. Twice a year will do it unless something spills.

http://www.autogeek.net/lexleatkit.html

And while this product can be used for leather as an all-in-one for your interior, I just use it for interior plastic and vinyl. Great stuff. Give the interior plastics a once over and do the dash and inside of doors every few weeks in just a couple of minutes. Gives UV protection and just the slightest sheen - not a slick, glossy, greasy look. Also anti-static so dust is not attracted. Helps keep dust away longer.

http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-protectant-plus.html

So that will be less than $150 for the exterior and interior if you do it yourself.

For undercarriage rust proofing I don't see the need in general, but a shop can do it for about $250 as I had it done for my Escape up on Nantucket where it drives on the beach and salt water corrosion is a problem. Heck, the air is permeated with salt on that small island 30 miles at sea. I had a Pathfinder up there for 10 years where the undercarriage was rust-proofed and fine. The car only had a couple thousand put on it up there over 10 years but the brake lines, fuel injectors and anything that could corrode in the engine eventually went from the salt air and beach driving.

Even with the snow and road salt put down in Chicago, I don't see undercarriage rust as an issue if you get undercarriage car washes after each storm where salt is put down. Yeah, in a few years your undercarriage will become brown with a coating of rust oxidation, but I don't see anything rusting out. Philly winters are not as bad, but we get snow and salt put down and I just had a GMC Jimmy bite the dust after having it parked outside for 16 years with no rust proofing. The tranny went. The clearcoat pealed at the top of the doors after about 12 years (never put Opti-Coat 2.0 on this vehicle as I considered it a beater by the time I got into detailing about 5 years ago). Rust was not an issue.

 

[EGUY4]

I turned down that package because of the price, the dealer rep seemed shocked.

My response to him was if this brand new car starts rusting or deteriorating in any way for no good reason I would be bringing it back to them.

Then we moved on.

I did take the tire and oil change/maintenance plans.

Many auto accessory shops offer the 3M poly film for far less.

 

[LukerDooker]

...The seat leather is way too thin for that 300psi treatment...
I use the Lexol as well and works well if you follow directions.

If all the cavities are filled via the drain holes, is it possible some drain holes will be plugged up?
The Ex has many water channels all around and filling any drain holes by accident will result in water rolling around until it finds a way out.

I do like the soundproofing idea of it but when you need service what happens to your coated undercarriage parts? Does that stuff get in the way of nuts/bolts?

 

[Sgt1411]

I agree with these guys, the dealership is doing the "upsell" on you and thats how they up their profit. They get you in the business managers office and grind you for extras.

Paint protection is questionable too, newer cars with clear coats are far superior to what was made years ago. Do it yourself, the guys on here educated me on sealants like ReJex and its very good, but there are many other good sealants.

Lexol is fantastic on the leather, always use it.

Undercoating is questionable, even in an area where the roads are treated with salt. It adds weight to the vehicle, it plugs drain holes, it flakes off after time. On the Explorer the wheel wells and bottom trim are all plastic .

I just hit the car washes here that have the undercarriage sprayers during the winter months. Then do a full wheels off clean in the Spring.

 

[Red13Sport]

I turned down that offer too. I've used "Liquid Glass" polish on my cars and trucks for years. So good it makes the soap bead up and stays on for a very long time. It's an old product and a little pricey at $30 a can but well worth it.
Makes this red ex look a foot deep

Just my 2 cents.
Red13Sport